+1.
hevac goes through a basic self test each time it is switched on - which includes moving the blend flaps. If they were stuck the symbol wd most likely come on straight away. The fact that it comes on later implies it is something else eg ac related, which the ECU is only requesting later on, in real life, doesn't work, and then throws up the symbol.
I'm guessing you have an ac issue...clutch engaging? if not, is it magnetised, if not can you engage it with 12v supplied direct to the compressor? do you now get cold air?
Hi Simon
I'm sure folks here will not be short of ideas, but it's mainly P38 expertise here - try landyzone or rangerovers.net
I'm not positive this is exactly the right part number - when you remove the seat it is moulded into the bottom of the foam...
https://www.brit-car.co.uk/product.php/83234/5497/overlay_front_seat_cushion_nrr
Not stocked, but the price may be enough to help you make up your mind : o)
New ones are silly money - get a layer of foam to put between the old foam and the leather cover. I cheated and put an extra piece of High density UNDER the old foam, which also does the job
Do you KNOW that the headlight switch was turned off when you left the car?
I suppose the BeCM could also run the headlights, if something supplied earth to the right track/ wire. It could just be worth having a quick visual inspection of the BeCM connectors and checking no wiring melted as the fog lamp blew
My old shocks were toast after 20 years, as Mad-as says just scrap them and start again. I replaced with Monroes gas-filled, but not harsh... Check tps too - 28 psi front and 38 rear - which can make a big difference to ride. For roll, check the front anti roll bar and replace the bushes and links for starters
9v battery seems to shift most
congrats. i've got about 250k to go
Tnx guys
And the answer was...split in half. It seems fine to shrink once, but repeated/ continuous heat causes a melt-down. I dare say better quality stuff wd have reacted better
Having spent a few days this week pulling apart my fridge freezer - and reading a comment that F/F systems don't leak like cars do as the compressor is electric/ enclosed and so has no leaking bearing seal (where mine leaks)...I got to wondering why cars don't use an electric compressor, instead of the mechanical/ rotating one...
Richard/ Sloth this one will be right up your alley !!
Hi Phazed - please post pics when done... I hate doing headlinings
I'm slowly coming to the conclusion that someone pried their way into my glovebox at some point, as the LHS latches but the lip doesn't fully close up - despite having spent a good while on my LH adjuster screw. Not sure what is under my leather covering on the glove box door, I assume some sort of steel plate. I may lean on the door lip next time it's off the car
Here you go, phazed... 50 quid.... or can be picked up for even less
I don't think it upsets me enough to shell out £150, but I may pay a visit to a breaker
No 9 ie the seal on the outside, with the metal inlay ( that then bubbles and crates the mess). OP may have meant different, or course
Thanks guys, maybe i'll use two layers, and then test the heater "on land", so to speak, as a bench test
I also got one re-gassed (for the glove compartment) at SGS. Trouble is, if they over do it (as mine did) there's no valve to release the gas.... Lots of time wasted - my advice is to spend the time to find a better priced new one... think i paid about 30 in the end. The one on the cubby box (drinks tray in my case) is f*** all use anyway -or at least it doesn't make the release clip on my lid any less fiddly.
me too - but i need RH rear : o)
In the pub all topics valid, right?
So - my fridge freezer started to trip the circuit breaker a few days ago - My nano couldn't connect, so in true P38 style I disconnected everything I could until the circuit breaker didn't trip, and then reconnected things bit by bit.... Turns out the defrost heater element is shorting to the outer case - which was touching the earthed cooling matrix... so, my question is... how about I put a heat shrink sleeve on said heater matrix tube? It shrinks at 100 degrees, which is more than the heating element will be allowed to generate (it's in series with a bimetallic thermal relay - which is closed only below +5 deg C) - the only question is if the heat-shrink can stand repeated heat.... or is there a kind of rubberised but heat-resistant paint I could get for the element?