Agreed. Get some acetone and wipe down the brake discs, although if they are rusty then remove the rust, and of course if the pads have already been worn down excessively then replace

Brakes maybe? Wheel imbalances seem to cause issues from 50-60 up, so prob not an issue when you are declerating. If just received deceleration without braking then diff will cause change in sound, but probably not the vibration.

Just got round to refitting all the bits, takes a while as I have to shuttle down to Dorset where I left it. Now I need to find time to fill up the PAS, trans and coolant system (the fun part). Fingers crossed the PAS doesn't start spewing D3 from an unseen hole somewhere. I would have replace the compressor to steering box line, but they come in over 100 pounds, so i thought I would test it first, as far as I can see the hose is steel braided so wd repel high speed pastic better than simple rubber. The reservoir had a hole in the side, so that got replaced too

BTW, for anyone worried about their fan, I got my replacement from Island 50 quid, Borg Warner, made in Germany

Always leave the cable attached to the nano, and then plug to the obd after. If you do it the other way round the live cable will short when connecting to the nano. Most if not all my f33 blows were before I sussed this out, now it's v rare

dave3d wrote:

I still think it needs a section of pipe welding to it, to guide the bush in.

The main guide is the studding you use, whereas if you use the press method then.you definitely do need the pipe as a guide to feed the bush... But I have no welder/ welding skills...It's also key to get the right sized washers for driving the bush. Prior preparation prevents piss poor performance is the key mantra for this task. That and an sds drill with hammer action, to remove the axle bolts

Harv wrote:

Wow Rob, bad luck. I would like to think that usually when a fan breaks it wouldn’t do that much damage.

At 50 quid for a new one you may not want to take the risk : o) this failure is starting to sound fairly common

That doesnt bear thinking about

Mine let go as I accelerated from a standstill and let go with quite a bang at probably around 4k rpm.

Mine was v similar...stuck behind a bicycle, and then I accelerated past it, followed by a loud bang as the blades hit the underside of the bonnet. Although I doubt i managed anything like 4k :o)

Maybe even original, i'd never replaced it in my 4 yrs of ownerahip ( altho swapped out the viscous coupling a couple of years back). All the fan bladed sheared at their base, just the plastic boss and viscous unit remained

My cooling fan shattered today, took out the side of the battery box, ripped one of the lower coolant hoses, destroyed the radiator shroud, dented the bonnet, shredded the sound proofing, holed the rad and also somehow seems to have knocked out the power steering. slighly ironic, as i'd just picked it up from the welders getting the door sills done and spent a few quid....
Coolant system shd be repairable, but the PS has me a bit mystified, no sign of hose damage, and the fan belt still runs the pump. I'll just try topping it up with Diii and see what happens.
I seem to recall this (disintegrating fan) happened to one of us before, but forgot who?

Morat wrote:

If I blow down the drains with an airline, how likely am I to pop the hose off the bottom? I don't have a flexi-rod to hand at the moment... if there's a significant risk, I'll get one.
RR:

You can just use an old length of power flex...but air from the top just as good

Richard, care to name the seller? I'd be happy not to accidentally buy from someone with so little integrity

JMCLuimni wrote:

Romanrob, will the compressor pull in the Freon/dye regardless of there being no negative vacuum in the system? I assumed that a negative pressure was required to “suck” the Freon in?

Nope, wd need to be vac'd filled, I usually end up at kwik fit/ats at that point. You can also pull off the Ali manifold and pour the dye directly into the compressor, if you then have a way to hook the system up to an air compressor at home ( I defer to Richard on that bit)

I wd go down the dye route. If you put a 9v battery across the compressor terninals the clutch shd pull in, you dont need to worry about the pressure switch.12v also works, but not necessary.

If you come out of auto then the fan shd revert to whatever speed you last selected manually.

Sold my wheel...for a tenner

thanks Aragorn

Which buttons? The rotary one responds to periodic cleaning up of the contacts, which get a bit tired of the constant rotations. I also find the wood trim often obstructs the temp buttons on mine

I've had a lone Hurricane alloy on eBay for 1yr+, dont hold ur breath, not sure what the demand is these days

Well, depending which wires you were measuring your resistance on - the blend motors have a motor, and a potentiometer - the pot resistance varies as the motor moves, which is how it signals to the ECU where the flaps are. If the pot was not working/ had been reassembled incorrectly/ or the blend motor was powered while off the heater box - then the resistance value wd show to the ECU as being out of range and it would fail the pre-test.
I think you should probably be ok now - fingers crossed..

Where in Germany are you? I'm frequently in Frankfurt