Tnx Richard, I have two on the roof, so I guess one was TV, and the other probably after mkt radio. HNH has one tho, as per his YouTube vid

Yes, get lots of spare plastic bits. You will probably need to depin the connector, or cut lots of wires and resolder them. May be easier to just respray the replacement

Thanks Richard, I'm not sure I'd ever crack it by myself. Embarassingly I've never entirely worked out what does what - partly because the TV has never worked, and partly because various bits are buried in different random places and it's only by elimination that I work out that they must be something to do with the RSE. I will photograph what I have - it'll be a bit like Krypton factor to assemble... congrats on your retirement btw

Jeez, someone just raised the stakes. Let me know how it goes HnH, I don't have the vhs, but all the rear seat wiring/ decoders seem to be there, buried behind the HEVAC

Ooh, sounds good. I think you just volunteered to be our pathfinder Morat :-)

I hear you Leo - I nearly used the aluminium tray from a roast chicken today... So far I've rigged up an angled aluminium bar on the base to support wood struts to brace the hinges for the cubby box lid, and put two x 2cm thicknesses of ply on the base to lift the single DIN unit up to where it will sit snugly underneath the wooden Autobiography switch unit in your photos. The ply will get covered in "leather", and then I'll fashion two side pieces to fill the 2-3cm gap either side of the unit, also covered in PU leather. There are so many contours going on it was just going to be impossible to do it all as one piece. It's only a couple of kids who will look at it anyway : o), and they don't care as long as it plays their favourite cartoons.
That makes me think, in these days of isolation - maybe I should just hook the RR up to the trickle charger and we can put the kids in the back of the car to watch cartoons while we potter around the house/ garden - I think I may have just found the path to corona virus sanity

Lol...too honest for your own good. Don't forget to take your bags for life, and a really long shopping list. I'm sure the police have better things to do, but don't stop off at any Derbyshire beauty spots

Tnx Leo, that photo must have been a brand new one - looks gleaming. I have the top wooden piece, but where the blaupunkt stereo is removed there is a gap to fill to replace it with a single din unit.
I had thought of builders foam too, but as you say, that stuff is hard to control, and would just as easily blow out the sides of the centre console, so yes I'm fishing around for which plastic to use. what I'm trying at the moment is v brittle, even heated ( just scrap from my garage - acrylic/ acetate I think) so possibly I need to source some ABS

The 50th has in-car entertainment at the back of the centre console. PO ripped out the old vhs machine and replaced it with a dvd - fair enough - but the vhs unit was probably 1.5 DIN, the DVD unit is just 1, and he/ she did a p*** poor job of remounting it, so I want to fix it. The centre console is leather covered, and I need to fashion a fascia to go at the back of it, in which to mount the single din unit, for passenger access. It mounts just above the floor vents. The fascia ideally should be slightly curved, to match the contours of the back of the console. I can use wood and epoxy to build the innards of what I need to mount the dvd player, but I can't work out what material is best to use for the face plate (which I will then cover with a thin layer of foam and faux leather). I'm messing around with some acrylic at the moment, but it's a bit painful. I could try a sheet of ABS, or acetate. Or try and fab something in fibre glass, even papier mache !! I'm sure there's something better/ easier - ideas anyone?

So apparently (according to the LR BeCM vid) the 4 turns is to do with the passive immobilisation (came in from 1996)- so if the car is early and does not have that fitted then hence no need for 4 turns, but yes on the 2001 , 4 turns https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D3uLZoQ-DEY&t=545s at 16mins

on the key fob you mean programming, or syncing? If the fob was bought from a dealer for your vin then it is/ shd be programmed. To sync you just turn to lock while pressing lock, turn to unlock pressing unlock. Then you should be able to lock/ unlock on the button, i don't think I've ever had to try more than twice to get it in sync.

Rob

+1, you needed to do the "weekly shop" at the big one down the road. That's only a problem if it turns out you actually live next door to the biggest one around o)

sounds like an elegant solution - it's nice when you get to put these things to bed

Thanks - nice story, fairy tale ending...

When I was dash-off and had an issue with the RH blend motor the HEVAC unit did not move the distribution motor either in response to any of the buttons - but it would move the distribution flaps during the start-up test. Once the RH blend issue was resolved, the distribution function worked fine. Message is - don't panic - but as above, diagnostics is the key.

I just put the relay between U/ Blue and the H/L switch and it works no problem (still driving the coil of the relay from the cigar lighter). Like that it still leaves the ability to have Park lights on, so I may just leave things there, as I guess that function is of some use. The relay will end up in the centre console cubby, so it can easily be replaced, or just jumped, without pulling things apart

Does it matter which way round 85 and 86 were with a std relay? My bench test said no. (9V battery across the coil and measuring resistance across 30/87). I actually have 85 going to ignition anyway, so that's ok.

"Disconnecting the ground from pin 3 of C219 is no different to the headlight switch being in the off position, no ground signal being sent to the BeCM" - i thought the same - but really it's not as the ground wire is still attached to the switch - perhaps "the system" needs that ground whether or not the switch is on.

Anyway - i've replaced the original ground on the H/L switch and reconfigured my relay wiring to break the U/Blue wire instead. And then if that works/ I can be bothered I'll put a second relay on the OR to do the side lights

I think the pin type is a red herring (still interested for the future, if some has a reference doc for Connector make/ model).
If I put the lights on with ignition on and remove the relay I get the same flashing effect so the new pin seems fine - but the second you remove the earth from the H/L switch - either because the relay is inactive, or the relay has been removed then you get the flashing (the lights don't do anything with switch off). I'm assuming it is some sort of BeCM logic I have fallen foul of - so maybe it's just better not to try and interrupt the ground to that switch.

Any thoughts? I may just replace the original ground pin in C219 and see what happens if I put the relay on the OR wire to interrupt the headlight wire to the BeCM instead

I can disconnect everything at C619 and the car still does the flashing thing. The only thing I haven't done yet is take the new pin out of C219. The new pin I used (econoseal) was microscopically different from the original one, I'm just wondering if it's not delivering a good connection - but then how would the switch be functioning fine at ignition on, if it had a poor earth connection?
Is there a document somewhere which lists off the connector make & type of each connector?

Since I had my dash off, as I put things together I thought I'd give this a crack. But I've ended up with headlights (no side lights) flashing at ignition off (and HL switch on) !!

Easy enough to roll back if I can't solve it, but what I changed was pretty trivial:
i I depinned C219/3 Black (ground to E252) which goes to the Headlight (H/L) switch
ii I replaced it with a new pin/ earth wire going to a 4 pin relay
iii I put the other side of the 4 pin relay to the earth at C619/ Cigar lighter (which grounds to E621)
iv. to activate the relay I used the +ve and -ve of C619/ Cigar lighter

I can feel the relay come on with ignition on, and go off with ignition off. With ignition on, the switch functions fine. With ignition off and H/L switch on then the headlights and tail lamps (but not sidelights) flash as well as the interior lights (HVAC display, clock, dash), even if I remove the relay from its base.

Is it possible that the BeCM (mis) interprets the lack of earth at the H/L switch (ie when ignition is off) and then starts pulsing the headlights. The flashing command can presumably only come from the BeCM?

I'll think some more...anyone else got any genius ideas?

Fair comment !