This is going to be painful... The lock barrel dropped out and is at the bottom of the door now.. I can see the rod through the round hole, which still has the metal work attached...
On the up side the battery is not connected and the door was locked manually, so the becm cannot make life more difficult for me....on the down side I wd possibly have been able to use the remote to open the door if the battery was connected....
Wd the door open if I manage to pull the rod up? And what kind of tool wd allow me to poke through the hole and lift the rod?
Or alternatively I cd go down the route of removing/ breaking the grille,popping the bonnet and reconnecting the battery...and hoping that the fob wd still be synched
Not sure who reassembled the lock/ what corners were cut...but thats in the past now
Any ideas?
It will be too late of course, but those of us with a London vote can get vote against him next time - especially if the oppo proposes to reverse the expansion (I know, wishful thinking....)
On my new (to me) P38 the barrel of the drivers door lock started spinning round and round, and then when I finally managed to persuade the key to come out the barrel slid almost all the way back into the door just by touch. I have been fortunate enough in the past not to have to familiarise myself with door anatomy... so, what will have failed? is it just a circlip fallen off inside? PO supplied a RHF door lock in a box of parts, so I suspect the lock was replaced but something was forgotten/ not fitted properly.
Last time this happened (Hyundai committed suicide at c 15mph) the insurers wanted to just replace the bumper but claimed they couldn't get one so I was trying to get ahead of them this time. I know the metal work on the current bumper is good (in the sense of recoverable) as i have already removed the bumper, separated the steel from the ABS, rewelded and repainted.
Just less convinced it is repairable this time around, but who knows
By cut outs I mean the holes for the lashing eye and the exhausts, but the guess work is made a bit harder by the fact that very few sellers can be bothered to supply a photo of the sku. So i had surmised that the difference between abs on the autobio one and the standard one was cutouts around the exhausts... but I may be making that up.
The stc4031 is for autobiography specifically, for VA on.... https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-STC4031P
So then a different question... what is/ was the difference in bumper types, other than painted or not. Maybe i don't need to care and can just get the one that is available, spray it up and job done
Some helpful person badly cracked the abs on my rear bumper...As far as I can see this part code is OOS everywhere... Unless someone knows of a specialist who may have one. This one has less cut-outs than the alternative, which seems to be freely available....or does anyone know who actually makes/ made them? I only really need the abs, so cd try a breaker, but the outers are messy to remove without further damage
Still clearing other issues on the "new" one. So not really got round to the lpg yet...but it's bi-gas.
.is that any good?
Tnx, good point, although my nano is out of reach at the mo...i'll wait until I retrieve the nano before pulling things apart
The fob locks , but cannot then unlock, the passenger door (all others open and close as expected). Central locking does not work using any of the sill switches... obviously it should, but it doesn't... which door do i tear apart first : o)
Sorry to be lazy, but i'm sure someone has the answer... on P38 no2 the passenger lock locks shut on the key fob, but does not open.... is that likely to be a jammed rod? seems odd for the motor to work one way and not the other... It just helps before pulling the door card off so that I can line up the necessary spares...
I just use clear polythene on the defender.
Tnx. I pick it up this w/e so will do some photos
Hi Gents, I just bought myself another P38...slightly better version of the 50th I already have : o) It comes with an LPG install and I'm wondering if it is worth retaining, or just strip it off... Is it complicated to remove?
As you can see I know nothing about LPG...so I'm all ears
Agreed. Get some acetone and wipe down the brake discs, although if they are rusty then remove the rust, and of course if the pads have already been worn down excessively then replace
Brakes maybe? Wheel imbalances seem to cause issues from 50-60 up, so prob not an issue when you are declerating. If just received deceleration without braking then diff will cause change in sound, but probably not the vibration.
Just got round to refitting all the bits, takes a while as I have to shuttle down to Dorset where I left it. Now I need to find time to fill up the PAS, trans and coolant system (the fun part). Fingers crossed the PAS doesn't start spewing D3 from an unseen hole somewhere. I would have replace the compressor to steering box line, but they come in over 100 pounds, so i thought I would test it first, as far as I can see the hose is steel braided so wd repel high speed pastic better than simple rubber. The reservoir had a hole in the side, so that got replaced too
BTW, for anyone worried about their fan, I got my replacement from Island 50 quid, Borg Warner, made in Germany
Always leave the cable attached to the nano, and then plug to the obd after. If you do it the other way round the live cable will short when connecting to the nano. Most if not all my f33 blows were before I sussed this out, now it's v rare
dave3d wrote:
I still think it needs a section of pipe welding to it, to guide the bush in.
The main guide is the studding you use, whereas if you use the press method then.you definitely do need the pipe as a guide to feed the bush... But I have no welder/ welding skills...It's also key to get the right sized washers for driving the bush. Prior preparation prevents piss poor performance is the key mantra for this task. That and an sds drill with hammer action, to remove the axle bolts