Retrieved the nano... the NSF door latch locks on the fob, but does not unlock. The NSF switch status remains "unlocked" no matter whether the dorr is unlocked or not... so i guess that shd be a micro- switch in the NSF door latch, right? Is this an easy fix... or better just to hit ebay...

How true 😄

Not sure it matters so much...mine were britpart...it's just HGs where there is no compromise

Sorry, I was imprecise with the "spares box" reference... The "new" p38 came with a box of old bits, including a couple of dismantled handles... there was a collar in there... and later I fished the other one out of the bottom of the door : o)

gems or thor? I suppose while you're there you have better access to leads/ plugs and the breathers on the casing. I would also give the rocker covers a nice coat of black hammerite smooth - i did mine a couple of years ago and looks v good still. Not sure the most effective way to clean the inside of the covers - there should be a better way than i did it (rags and solvent). BTW, you know that ideally you need a 12 point socket for the rocker cover ? ideally...8mm & long/ narrow

yep, the barrel goes in a sleeve, which then has another collar on top, to lock to the cam on the outdoor lock. found a collar sitting in the spares box... all good now. Thanks for the key tip - push down, not pull up : o)

Pushed it down and open it popped. So someone had switched the barrel over in the outer door lock but not retained it with either a roll pin or screw, so the barrel pushed straight out. I'm guessing there is another bit sitting in the bottom of the door though since after a rebuild a turning key does not turn the cam on the outdoor lock

Ta

This is going to be painful... The lock barrel dropped out and is at the bottom of the door now.. I can see the rod through the round hole, which still has the metal work attached...
On the up side the battery is not connected and the door was locked manually, so the becm cannot make life more difficult for me....on the down side I wd possibly have been able to use the remote to open the door if the battery was connected....

Wd the door open if I manage to pull the rod up? And what kind of tool wd allow me to poke through the hole and lift the rod?

Or alternatively I cd go down the route of removing/ breaking the grille,popping the bonnet and reconnecting the battery...and hoping that the fob wd still be synched

Not sure who reassembled the lock/ what corners were cut...but thats in the past now

Any ideas?

It will be too late of course, but those of us with a London vote can get vote against him next time - especially if the oppo proposes to reverse the expansion (I know, wishful thinking....)

On my new (to me) P38 the barrel of the drivers door lock started spinning round and round, and then when I finally managed to persuade the key to come out the barrel slid almost all the way back into the door just by touch. I have been fortunate enough in the past not to have to familiarise myself with door anatomy... so, what will have failed? is it just a circlip fallen off inside? PO supplied a RHF door lock in a box of parts, so I suspect the lock was replaced but something was forgotten/ not fitted properly.

Last time this happened (Hyundai committed suicide at c 15mph) the insurers wanted to just replace the bumper but claimed they couldn't get one so I was trying to get ahead of them this time. I know the metal work on the current bumper is good (in the sense of recoverable) as i have already removed the bumper, separated the steel from the ABS, rewelded and repainted.
Just less convinced it is repairable this time around, but who knows

By cut outs I mean the holes for the lashing eye and the exhausts, but the guess work is made a bit harder by the fact that very few sellers can be bothered to supply a photo of the sku. So i had surmised that the difference between abs on the autobio one and the standard one was cutouts around the exhausts... but I may be making that up.

The stc4031 is for autobiography specifically, for VA on.... https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-STC4031P

So then a different question... what is/ was the difference in bumper types, other than painted or not. Maybe i don't need to care and can just get the one that is available, spray it up and job done

Some helpful person badly cracked the abs on my rear bumper...As far as I can see this part code is OOS everywhere... Unless someone knows of a specialist who may have one. This one has less cut-outs than the alternative, which seems to be freely available....or does anyone know who actually makes/ made them? I only really need the abs, so cd try a breaker, but the outers are messy to remove without further damage

Still clearing other issues on the "new" one. So not really got round to the lpg yet...but it's bi-gas.
.is that any good?

Tnx, good point, although my nano is out of reach at the mo...i'll wait until I retrieve the nano before pulling things apart

The fob locks , but cannot then unlock, the passenger door (all others open and close as expected). Central locking does not work using any of the sill switches... obviously it should, but it doesn't... which door do i tear apart first : o)

Sorry to be lazy, but i'm sure someone has the answer... on P38 no2 the passenger lock locks shut on the key fob, but does not open.... is that likely to be a jammed rod? seems odd for the motor to work one way and not the other... It just helps before pulling the door card off so that I can line up the necessary spares...

I just use clear polythene on the defender.

Tnx. I pick it up this w/e so will do some photos