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The only place for a coil spring is up Zebedee's arse
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Personally i'd focus on the re- seating option first. You dont need a jack, just put it on full lock...check they cleaned the housing, and gave it a new cage, with a bit of copper grease. And dont hit it back in with a hammer: o)

If you re-cover the sunshade on one side with a PU/ faux leather all the way to the edge then it will slide in the channel without messing around with the E clips. - if we're talikng about the fiddly little clips on the sunshade, anyway

Hi Chris - welcome. I'm also another Defender/ P38 cross-over.... took me a while to bond with the P38 (ie took nearly two years sorting out 20 yrs of issues), i cd never quite be bothered to fix the cruise control though

Landrover can tell you from your reg number/ chassis number. They dont need diagnostics to tell you

On the other hand, a nanocom will allow you to input the confirmed eka code and bypass the locks. Assuming your becm has not been changed...

Thanks - the more I read the more it looks like a dead end.. you can spend a lot of time and effort to maybe get Euro 4 (Thor loophole aside) and then Sadiq will change the rules at the drop of the hat , and lo and behold the requirement will be Euro 6... the only foolproof way is to do an EV conversion, i think - or buy a 40 year old base vehicle (until they change the rules on that too...)

Slightly off topic, But I have a friend who wants to convert a 110 to v8, but lives in the ULEZ zone, so wants it to be ULEZ compliant. Is there such a thing as a compliant V8 which could "readily" be dropped in - the next problem would be convincing TFL, of course...

P38 owners are a dying breed

I use bees wax furniture polish

i just ran a standard after-market DAB aerial to the lower left hand side of the windscreen (heated too). One day if i can be bothered I'll mount it elsewhere, but 90pc of the time it's fine

Hey Dan

I have a Hurricane alloy SW london, decent condition (was refurb'd at some point) and almost brand new tyre. It came to me as an un-matching spare, but was probably mounted incorrectly as it has a slow puncture... 20 quid, just bored of it lying around : o)

Welcome - i take it that sorting out the suspension does not involve a coil conversion : o)

Hi Ara,
HGs must be Elring is the main thing. I got my kits from Island, similar price to your link.

No need to pull the engine, but expect some pain around the steering column/ heat shields though

If you don't need the car daily Hugh then it's not so bad to diy a HG change if you've got a reasonable tool set and a breaker bar...seems daunting at the start, but you just go down the list one by one.
It's also worth doing a proper coolant refill and burping the system...if the gap hasn't been set up correctly it can easily dump the coolant through the overflow and perhaps you didn't notice. Running the system uncapped can easily result in a boiling over and you convince yourself it's the HGs. After I did a refill soon after acquiring I had similar symptoms (but my system has been running as sweets as for a couple of years now) - just saying it would be a shame to strip the HGs and find they were intact after all...

i'd go diff... spent ages messing around with mine and that's what it was - but yes, slack in drive train... so UJs also an (easier) option

Not really, that's the one I have... the rear badge says Vogue 50, but it's basically 50th anniversary. they made 100 or so. The colour is Atlantis Blue which is a split green blue pearlescent (JYW 632) that looks v good in sunlight.

DavidAll wrote:

I used one to get the transfer case out.
Because the car was on a four post lift it was betwixt and beteeen the right height so ended up putting it on a another hydraulic lift which was a bit awkward.

It is not a very large area on top and with the odd shape of the TC it was pretty unstable.

Used it again to put it all back in with Romanrobs help.

If you need one you are welcome to both mine. Based near Dorking.

I remember !! All very precarious : o)

So in the end I gave up - there is some condition not satisfied at the ECM, and I've no idea what... so in the RH footwell i earthed the grant line going back to the HEVAC. The clutch still goes on and off with the a/c button for sure - i just need to check that over-riding the Grant feature has not also bypassed the temperature check that the HEVAC ECU makes on the evaporator

Thanks KCR you reminded me that I had one of these harnesses in the garage, so i fitted it last night. After a few ignition cycles without the clutch working then it just randomly engaged - once, and got the evaporator down to 5 degrees - but i can't replicate that... I will do a bit more digging, I smell the end game

Tnx Richard, I have the a/c request, so there shdn't be a sensor problem with HEVAC... But that's why I'm asking about the ECM conditions - although what's on nano looks normal enough - for some reason the ECM isn't returning the a/c grant, so if I knew the exact conditions I could make sure they're all reading ok and move on through the diagnosis.
Everything i've tested seems ok, but the only odd thing is I see 11 something volts at the compressor plug even before the ignition comes on...but it's only 0.1 or 0.2Amps so not strong enough to pull the clutch in. That wd only have come from 2 sources, i think: i. the Fuse box to the dual pressure switch, or ii. HEVAC to dual pressure switch. Maybe the pressure switch is playing up.
I'll test all the pins on C102/202 next, didn't get time today before the rain started....