Sure, although Microcat will give you a vin-specific search option, so lrcats a bit dumbed down. Which follows in a fine Russian tradition: Concordski etc
I note no diagnostics offers for you yet, Dave. Let me bid SW London, near LHR, I'm sure someone can better that though.
I think the original premise is wrong though, Lrcat distinctly shows separate part numbers for gems and thor, and I don't know of any other parts book which takes precedence, other than microcat, perhaps
No, the poor re-starting pre-dated the new lambda probes/ exhaust (the probes were baked into the old exhaust and the thread stripped when they came out, so when I changed the exhaust I effectively had to change the sensors). I really hadn't done much too it - I'd changed the coolant completely (follow up to HG change earlier in August). Following the HG rebuild I cleaned the MAF, and replaced the air filter, but those were both a month before the restart issue (pretty sure I reset adaptive values at that point). I think the theory that the warm engine is being given the full cold start mix is probably right - the exhaust smells v rich when it fails to start - but it doesn't do it at every warm re-start, which is a bit confusing. I'll check the coolant temp again (there are 2 in a GEMS, right? not sure which one I need to be worried about) - other than Nano, is there a good way to test them? Would the fuel temp sensor have an impact ? Are there any other sensors which might mis-read and cause the ECU to use the cold start fuelling trim. The lambda screens on nano read +39% fuel trim at a cold start, currently, I didn't screen shot the same screen at warm start (yet).
It's a bit better at idle +/- 625 rpm. O2 sensors are generating sensible values, but I still have the warm restart issue, it did it to me this evening. I'm only doing relatively short trips at the moment, which is not helping it, I suppose.
I am trying to spot on Nano what is going on on the occasions it fails the warm restart. My throttle position always used to be 0.625V. Should it read accurately at ignition point II - it seems to move around a bit between .58 and .64 between key turns. what does a failing TPS do?
Thanks LPGC. It's idling a bit better, although not brilliant yet. Bank 1 and Bank 2 are back on closed loop, and the sensors are now generating some sensible values ie +/-5% trim. I wonder whether new O2 sensors need a bit of a chance to run in ie go through a few heat cycles. I removed the IACV this morning to clean it up, but it really wasn't too bad.
Welcome Dave
This morning we're back to closed loop on Bank 1, with some sensible trims, so I guess I'll just let it do its stuff. Patience is a virtue etc.
Thanks LPGC.
The failed restarts are all on a warm engine, but not all the time.
I just ran the car for 20 odd motorway miles and it threw an open fault on Bank 1. Bank 1 always used to work (ie wiring should be good) prior to fitting the two new Lemark sensors/ exhaust. I suppose there are a few ways to go: 1. Remove the Lemark sensor clean it up as well as the plug make sure there's no contamination (shouldn't be, but you never know) 2. Swap the Lemark sensors and see if the open fault switches sides (but presumably that will require a reset and relearn beforehand) and/or 3. fit my one good/ old sensor to Bank 1 and see what happens.
Does anyone know of an off vehicle test for an O2 sensor, in case I end up having to return it?
Had to do another Nano job today to get it restarted. It's looking as if the TPS voltage settings/ position settings are diverging ie today I didn't do a full reset but forced a 0.63 setting on the TPS, and 30 steps on the IACV. Still didn't sound wonderful at start-up, but better. Maybe I just need to go on a much longer journey to let it learn, it seems that short hops are confusing the hell out of the ECU. I should be getting my 7/32 socket soon, so can try and remove the IACV
Lpgc, I enjoyed the "history suggests" ref
NTC3354 for the o ring
I'll take another look at the MAF, although it was doing fine before, and after cleaning the idle responded by dropping from 675 to 625, so seemed happier at that point. Previously if I disconnected the MAF the engine failed to start. If it is the MAF though,why would that be isolated to the odd restart?
Seems like something temperature related?
Dunno, maybe the O2 sensors are a red herring then.
The car starts fine from cold still, and will run warm/ under load with no problems, albeit idling (at about 625) seems a bit rough, but for example, today I had stopped for a few minutes and couldn't get the car to restart. Turned over no probs, just wouldn't fire up. I had to reset adaptive values and then it restarted (unhappily) and after 10 seconds' rev'ing ran stably again - second time I've had to pull that trick now in the space of 2 weeks, but other than a few times it re-starts normally - there's no obvious pattern to the failed starts, they've all been after short hops of c. 5 miles. Obviously I don't want to be resetting the values, as it puts me back to square 1 again. But something else is influencing the trim at the re-start, if it's not the O2 sensors.
Coolant temp is being recorded at 97-100 degrees in the GEMS ECU, so fine, I'm guessing. Next on my list is probably the IACV, except the M4 bolts seem to have about a 5.6mm head (or 7/32 ?) and I don't have anything to safely remove those for now. Injectors were all tested with identical resistance 6 months ago, plugs and HT leads are all new/ the same, MAF got cleaned (with contact cleaner), IAT sensor got cleaned (although it still reads a bit off - like most of my 21 year old thermistors tbh). I have good sparks on all cylinders. I have no o ring on the MAF sensor, not sure if it really makes a difference, but I'll get one anyway. Then only other thing I did in the background was drain the coolant, flushed the sytem and refilled with red coolant (which was what was there before)
Is this re-starting issue not sounding familiar to anyone?
This may be slightly unrelated, or it may not, but after replacing both 02 sensors for new (Lemark) I have a poor idle. According to Nano, the voltage on the sensors is hopping around ok ie 0-5V, but the trims to the LH bank are predominantly -ve, and for the RH bank are mainly +ve. Should there be a pre-defined relationship between the voltage and the trim - might this indicate one of my sensors is mis-reading? If so, which one? I still have one good one that came off, so could re-fit it, but ideally I would know which Bank to fit to.
I dug out some 6 month old screen shots of the 02 sensors, when the idle was running fine, and it was showing a similar relationship then -ve on the left, while +ve on the right, but obviously a screen shot was just a moment in time. The trim values seemed less extreme though. Also, my ECU is still learning, after a reset about 50 miles ago, but shd that make a difference?
Silencer? ok, let me look !!
Nope - I'm looking for something that can happen when totally stationary... exhaust and rubbers are all replaced, rear shocks are re-tightened, my next theory is that the exhaust valve for the EAS is somehow transmitting it's noise through the bulkhead. If I lift the bonnet it sounds like the release of air brakes as the EAS pump stops - but i wonder how that sounds from inside the cabin. Do any of the cabin ECUs (esp EAS and WABCO) have any component which could generate a knocking sound, like a relay / solenoid etc?
Tnx Bolt, good suggestions. I can remove power from my door amps (High line, but pre DSP) by just turning off my stereo - which I hadn't tried yet, but will do now. Factory sat nav is off, I have pulled out the power plug at the back.
I haven't explored under the LH seat yet, but it also occurred to me that the EAS ECU (possibly the relay) cd be making a sound, and so I could change it out and see what happens
LOL Richard
I have redone the entire exhaust this week - cats/ int/ rear remounted on rubbers etc. Nice and smooth sounding now, but still clunking/ knocking periodically. This should be something electrical as it can do it when stationary. i have disabled the AC so no AC clutch. EAS pump seems normal, and was re-sealed a few months back. Accumulator replaced on ABS recently too. Other than that, what cycles on and off, with some kind of "solid state" solenoid/ valve on the LHS of the vehicle from the odd/ passenger seat area. The sound is like a soft knock of someone's knuckle on abs. Is there anything behind the door cards that would be moving about ?
Tnx Brian, I picked up a set of those Laser plug testers the other day, not used in anger yet. I was wondering if it would be more effective to use them in their coil pairs, rather than left bank/ right bank? Semantics i suppose, I may just buy another 4 and cover all the bases