you can get Dave on catch-up. End of Day 1, beep beep beep, engine immobilised - hilarious

I have BFG ATs on my V8 Defender (265/75 R16)- the BFG AT was a standard fitment from new, am on my 2nd set at 100k miles. They come in two speed ratings though - you'll want the V for the P38. No complaints, runs at 80/85/90 without excessive noise, but if I needed to stop at speed on a slippery road, jury's out - the Defender is heavy, no ABS - RR is nearly twice as heavy, but at least has ABS.
I run Goodyear Efficiency (255/55 R18) on the P38, and had fun rallying on my Dad's farm last time i visited. On balance I'm more concerned about stopping the RR at speed on the road, than losing traction at low speed off road, so just depends how you think about it.

GYEs are about 100 per unit BFG ATs close to 180

I think you're right, it finds its own level, which may or may not be where you think it should be. Takes a few miles for all the air to come out of hiding, and possibly some sits in a corner somewhere in a waterway and gives you a little too much expansion capcaity. I have now run the overflow from the expansion tank through a silicone tube and down to axle level, as I got bored of cleaning coolant from elsewhere when the coolant system decides to chuck up

You'd have to be going some to strip the thread on one of those M16 b***stards, still, it does go to 120 ft lbs or something, hard to feel any stripping at those kind of values

Nope, mine came off ebay from a seller called coolpartsuk (2 year warranty). I seem to recall that the actual manufacturer was these guys https://www.adrad.co.uk/

what wheel/tyre/ pressure combo are you running? might you be better off with firmer shocks ie a shock transferred to both shocks at the same time is according to your preference, but a shock to one side produces a yaw

I removed my bumper too. In theory it shd be quick, but like Gilbertd be prepared to abort if the bolts feel like it's shearing or the head strips. The originals are 12 point and road salt may have got the better of them, the heads are recessed, so limited options for removal - drill or use unwin bolt extractors. Replaced with s/s hex bolts.
The wire retainers on the plastic lugs may also have corroded and will probably bend rather than turn. And then the ears on the chassis will v probably need replacing too ie you will probably need/ want to clean up alot before remounting the bumper, unless you know this is all as it should be, in which case removal is just a 15-20 min job.
I'm not sure I cd have replaced the receiver/ drier without removing the bumper, but I suppose if you are familiar with releasing the connectors, and the retaining bolt for the canister is kind to you and you are dextrous with little green o rings you might get away with it. Let us know how it goes

i,d worry about where the swarf was going to go... Compressed air maybe, as a start? And then shove a magnetic pick up in the hole as you manually rotate the wheel, to see if you can pick up any loose material. I guess the sensor is a magnetic pick up , so it could be sensitive to a bit of rust on the ring. if you have the patience then one of those fibre glass abrasive pencils and clean the ring tooth by tooth (it has c 60)

Well, it wasn't very excited about coming out, but a pair of expandable pliers on the top and a bit of twisting/ wiggling and it was fine. Good point on the tolerance rings, I'll order some to have on hand for next time, one day my luck will run out (well, it does frequently, if i'm honest, just not on the ABS sensors)

yep, welcome

Anyway, I removed the sensor from the housing/ cleaned it and greased it up again, all good now

It came on as I was moving off, initially. Then I cleared the code, and the warning stayed off for a while, before popping back on

I got "Abs/ Traction failure" today. Nanocom read the fault as "normal rotation on all wheels, incorrect air gap on RHF sensor". The rubber boot on the sensor needs replacing, but I've been nowhere near that corner for a long while, so nothing's been disturbed. I was off on a drive, so all i've done so far is give the sensor a bit of a tap with a hammer to check it was seated properly, nada.... I'll pull it out tomorrow and give it a bit of a clean, and maybe blast the port with air. Any other thoughts? If spring cleaning doesn't work then I'll prob end up getting a replacement sensor.

Tnx, Rob

Tnx Dav, if my soft wood ones don't work I'll do the nylon 66, and it won't break the bank - thanks for the suggestion

Re Delrin, a bit off topic - and I guess I'm late to the party, but if Delrin is such a pig to cut then why not use wood for the calibration blocks?

here's the discussion I was referring to - RRTH makes an appearance half way down https://www.rangerovers.net/threads/faultmate-msv-2-extreme-review-help-wanted.31678/#post-284328

Thanks - doesn't sound too tricky then, I'll give it a bash

I stumbled across an amusing thread today on rr.net, where RRTH is lecturing someone on Customer Service (although to be fair, it is BBS, so they deserve all the kicking they get)

Thanks Sloth/ GD. I thought china china was some clever sort of switch I hadn't come across.

I still don't speak ETM fluently, but it looks the interior lights, or some thing to do with them, are also getting their ground through that rotary light switch. Do you know how relevant that is? Also, how good an earth does the connection need? Presumably the MOSFETs have their own ground, and the switch going to ground is just a signal ( or not?) . If possible I want to try and avoid burying a relay behind the switch panel,so wd probably locate it under the dash somewhere, hence the circuit might need to be a bit longer than it is currenly

It sounds a bit weird for something essentially mechanical, like the suspension, to be inconsistent (whether bad or good). Why would the height sensors make it wallowy? Although, did you check your ride heights recently ( have they crept up, due to black spots) you may be able to take them down a couple of cm

How about tires and pressures ? Perhaps wallowy (because the panhard rod translates up/ down movement to left/ right) means you want firmer shocks ie to reduce movement in both planes? Did you take another P38 er for a spin recently to cross check? Wd be a shame to chase this only to discover "that they're all like that". I'd describe mine as more floaty than wallowy, but there's a bit of wallow in there, for sure