OK, so no errors on GEMs in Nano. I completely replaced the exhaust system yesterday, and one of the o2 sensors was corroded in, so I'll be looking to replace that. I think the sensor was functioning ok beforehand though. I think the problem is that the air intake temp now reads anything from 1 to 8 degrees, and so at the restart (when the engine bay is now warm) the calculated fuel air mix is now wrong. I optimistically sprayed contact cleaner at the IAT sensor in the meantime - a new one's the better part of 100 quid

Tnx for the tip George. No Brian, no gas...that would just give me another thing to fix. I'll get it on the nano this weekend.

Chris/ Sloth, thanks for the suggestions, I'll check them out

V8 starts on the nose,and idles fine, from cold. A couple of times the other day i "had fun" restarting when I'd just stopped for 5-10 minutes. Engine turned over no problem, but didn't fire up. After a few attempts it just about caught, and I had to keep it rev'd to 1500 for 15-20 secs for it to stop choking. As soon as I had it under load ie in reverse or 1st then it could idle at 650 again.

Does anyone recognise the symptoms?

I haven't yet cleaned up the IACV since i bought it, or fitted a new fuel filter, and i will shortly change the exhaust down-pipes and so clean the oxygen sensors at the same time. MAFs clean, injectors are ok, spark plugs and HT leads are new

Bolt, perhaps also consider the front too eg inlet manifold - a leak will run over the inlet manifold gasket, under the manifold itself, and drip down the back of the engine.But if you don't have dried coolant on the composite gasket then that probably ain't it. Also, if you extend the overflow tubing on the expansion tank down to axle level you will be able to tell if there is really a leak, or the coolant is being forcefully ejected

yep, good point about the rivets, I heard that too, might even deploy some of my green Loctite on them, definitely can't be bothered grinding the heads off and putting bolts in etc That said I'm getting no noises at any kind of speed/ over speed bumps etc, so I don't think this is it.
The centre section of my exhaust doesn't have a hanger on it (blame the PO,, or it may just have rusted off), and although the exhaust looks very solid then I guess it means the whole weight of my exhaust is balanced between the exhaust manifolds, and the four or so hangers on the rear silencer boxes. My exhaust is a bit of a patchwork quilt - might be an excuse to replace the whole thing front to back

Ah well, I hope mine's easier to find than that.... retorqued the shocks today, put another few lb ft on them, but as if the car sensed my anticipation as soon as I cycled the ignition on/ off it gave me a little knock. The shocks are completely new / have run for less than 1k miles. I'll test your exhaust theory next Richard, it seems fairly solid, but I'll perhaps put a rubber piece on the panhard rod to see if that makes it go away. tbh, I hoped someone was going to say that there's a little known widget under the rear seat that taps on the body powered by RL xx and de-programmable in the BECM …. no such luck then

Tnx, I'll take a look. I know that my exhaust comes close to the panhard rod, for example, and if I take a speed bump at high speed I can hear a bit of a clang. But, this sounds internal to something and is no louder window down versus window up, it will occasionally do it while the vehicle is stationary, so I was wondering if there's some electrical system active & doing something. If I am stationary on access height, then occasionally I can get it to do it by going to ride height - maybe something to do with the self-levelling. None of this happens over 10, perhaps 20, mph

I know, if we had a pound for every post about a rattle, knock or squeak in a p38 we'd all be millionaires, so to help you on your way....

I have an infrequent tap from the direction of the LH rear door or under the back seat. It sounds a bit like if you took a plastic handled screwdriver and tapped the chassis, or bodywork. It only seems to happen at low speed, less than 10 mph. It fairly often does it after slow braking, when the car's almost at a halt. Some times it does it just rolling along. Occasionally when I'm stationary, or if I turn the ignition off, but it's all low speed stuff. I have put the EAS up and down a few times to see if that had anything to do with it - seems not. I had the air con switched off, to be sure the clutch was not creating a phantom noise.

What moves almost randomly under the rear end of the car? I suppose I can check the rear calipers/ guide pins, but they were all thread locked anyway. something come loose in the fuel tank? I cd maybe check the exhaust mountings

Just drained my coolant, and flushed it through several times, there isn't/ wasn't much crud in there, so perhaps the rad is not the issue. I'll give the viscous fan coupling a go next, i think

E252 RH footwell panel - that's the earth point for most of what you say is playing up, although it is common to a few other things, like fuel filler cap. ETM Z5 view 56

The lights on without the switch could be an earth thing (ie going with Bolt's conclusion) - but could you just define the difference between main beam and headlights, since you say the first doesn't work and the second is always on?

Thanks for the feedback. I had my eye on the Direnza rad already :o)
I think the viscous fan's fine, although I'm not sure I've ever seen it disengaged/ heard it changing pitch tbh, it always seems to be running.

How/why does the Prog test work Richard ? Because the heater matrix is being used ? I put the HEVAC on Hi to cool things down anyway (and opened the windows), but as soon as I was on the open road I was back on the a/c.

Anyway, it sounds like current performance is abnormal, so I see a new shiny rad in my future. I did try and stick an endoscope in the water pump housing situ when i did the HG rebuild, but I couldn't get it to work, shame, I was feeling really clever having thought of it.

As I look back I had two near misses this summer, both on hot days, after 15-20 minutes of slow traffic ie just the fan running at barely above idle, and no air ram effect on the rad... I pulled over quickly each time, let the engine cool, and then as soon as the traffic cleared, hit the open road and no problem, back in the centre of the dial. OK, so I did subsequently have one HG go, which I'm sure wasn't helped by the first over-heating episode, but a HG change was in the tea leaves anyway.
So my question is, should I expect (and so try to avoid) these kind of heavy traffic/ hot weather over-heating scenarios, or does it sound like my waterways might be bunged up (ooerr). All the hoses are changed out since I bought it, but I haven't touched the water pump (yet) or the rad. The system did have some rad weld in it for a few weeks last year, but I have done a couple of changes of the coolant since then. I was wondering if the radiator was free flowing...if I stuck a hose in the top of the rad and blasted it through would it make any difference, or should I consider a new rad - I couldn't swear to it being the original one, but it's certainly the normal abs/ aluminium build and so possibly due a new one anyway

Welcome Mick, unlucky, that cd have been me on my first weekend

My Monroes are good, IMHO. I have front and rear. As mentioned on. net, i don't trust people re-selling "OEM" stuff and who think you don't need/ deserve to know the manufacturer, especially on a pair of shocks. I'd rather have a name, and know who to blame if it turns out to be shite, although thus far I trust Bearmach as an umbrella brand, even though obviously they don't manufacture all their stuff. But in this case (ie P38 shocks), by the time you've priced up a Bearmach set you may just as well have Monroe.

is it that, or your dunlop rears are shot :o)

err..no, and my nano was last updated about 3 months ago. Anyway, seems my saga is not over yet, ABS light came up again, but nothing reported on nano, bit weird.

Turns out my fix (replace and grease the RHF sensor) was only transient. In the few weeks since then nano has sworn blind that the air gap was too large on the RHF sensor. After greasing and replacing the sensor 10 times, i tried to get nano to work and give me the live wheel data - turns out the LHF was reading zero. Pulled out the LHF and cleaned it up, and we're back to normal.
I'm not sure whether to attribute the inaccurate error message to the nano or the WABCO ECU, but worth considering that those text messages aren't always accurate.

that's a shame. I imagine the most painful experience was having to listen to the Jeep driver crowing for the whole session