Hi Orange I'm going to have a closer look this evening - It has 60,000 miles on clock and is costing £950 . What do you think ? Terri has reminded me that it was brought to Spain from Dubai. Probably owned by one of those Marbella Arabs. Does this explain the rather mixed colours and specs ! Perhaps the Arabs wanted a Westminster with nice beige Leather seats and could afford to choose ?

And feasibility of converting to LPG - and cost if I do it myself ? (have to hide the LPG from Spain MOT each year !)

Oh, and it only has one exhaust coming out the back - my 4.0 has two !

Very strange ! It has a lot of similarities to this 2002 Range Rover 4.6 HSE especially the seat colour and black trim - a video I found on YT https://youtu.be/6IEkJNS2CbE

Also there is mention of chrome trim on instrument panels - all very odd - someone will either say it is a bog standard 4.6 HSE with some odd additions/repairs like tail gate or a special choice export - perhaps one could choose light seats ? My existing 4.0 has the same light colour seats and I think it was a special for the Mayfair arab and matching colour leather gear knob and handbrake cover. The dogs chewed the leather gear and handbrake and when I called the show room for replacement they said £200 each. Needless to say they are still chewed !

Well I found this but not sure if it helps - http://www.rangerovers.net/modelspecs/2002.html - won't see the vin for a day or so - Does it make any difference if it is made for Spain ? Perhaps there were variations for export. Also the dash pic looks like my vid - the bit one can see. I only assume the Westminster thing because of the badge on the back but it could be a replacement tailgate couldn't it ? I did actually help her with some work on the coolant overflow pipe a year or so ago but didn't take any special notice of anything. The sun and heat here makes a mess of anything plastic. If its not a westminster - is it anything out of the ordinary - i mean what is it then ?

Also guys, what would the parts cost for me to install LPG to this 4.6 westminster on the basis that I would have to disguise/remove it for the annual ITV/MOT . Looking at my existing LPG on the 4.0 I reckon I could do the work. In Spain even the bloody roof rack has to be a factory fitted approved one and tow bars same detail !!
I suspect some of you are LPG 'fitters' - what would you charge ? I expect to keep the UK RR going but if I scrapped it would most of the Zavoli LPG parts be usable on the Left hand drive 4.6 ? And, the tank, after 10 years is it a question of replacement or retesting ?

I bumped into (not literally) a friend here who has been trying to sell her Spanish plated left hand drive 4.6 (Westminster) 200 3 Range Rover for ages and she admitted that no one was interested - not easy to sell a thirsty old luxury car here. So I asked her how much she was selling now for - will tell you later. I don't know the mileage/kilometers - she has spent nearly six thousand pounds on garage bills but it seems in reasonable condition so I called my wealthy swiss miss in Switzerland and she has agreed to help me buy. Of course it is not on LPG and under Spanish rules never can be so what is the mpg for a 4.6 ?? My 4.0 is about 18 to the gallon. Presumably it is a Thor with whatever that means. I'm still committed to getting mine up to scratch but there are complications if you are resident here and have a UK legal vehicle for more than 6 months of the year !! Anyway, I filmed it to show you and would value as ever any comments about things I should watch out for and what do you think is a 'going' price I Would it have GPS ? - Haven't got access to the car yet - here's the film https://youtu.be/8R1zbntx91M

When you go to the yards - all separate - in rows along the street - you go into the office - tell them your car and roughly what you want and then you go on your own to the row number you are given where you expect to find your car type. If you find the right one there is no guarantee what is left - all the best is usually gone and as I said before - few P38 petrol here they are few and far between - and it is an old car by their standards. But I have had a nearly new air suspension pump which was a good find for reasonable cost. When you find a bit you want they send a mechanic who removes it and you take it to the office where they price it ! If you have no luck in one you go along the street to the next - there are 4-5 - it can take a long time. It is quite a big business here. I never knew of places on this scale in UK.

Oh and by the way Orange - the biggest parking problem is in the street outside !

As a matter of interest, the breakers yards here in Spain on the very busy coast are many and vast. There is a problem in that older vehicles seem to be got rid of in the yards quite soon - something to do with the way the law treats disposal of older cars. The big yards by Malaga Airport (the size of football fields) with cars stacked on scaffold sometimes, do have a system of removed spares on shelf but this is a bit hit and miss. The other problem for P38 petrol people is that most P38's that were bought here seem to be diesel. Just for interest I'll try and stick a Google pic of what they look like from the air !!

Yes my GEMS has 4 separate coils. Without going to the expense of a brand new proven coil pack I suppose I could play 'musical chairs' swapping individual coils between the two used packs that I have. But I'm a bit lazy and you know the amount of fiddle factor getting them changed and tested one by one. I'm very stubborn so will probably get round to it. It is definitely a heat related problem as one can see the change in low power/speed the hotter the day and journey gets. Did try testing with an ohmmeter although not sure what I was doing - could not see a discrepancy but remember this was done off car in the cold.

Yes - coils sound possible - and what you describe is more or less exactly what happens - but perhaps I did a daft thing - months ago I got a second hand coil pack and changed it. When I started the engine it sounded smooth and ok but that was also the case with the old coil pack when cold. So I don't have a definitive idea that the changed coil pack is 100%. Since then I have been through all the LPG setups and problems which are back to normal. But despite new plugs, leads - fiddle with TPS (still old), the acceleration was still showing a problem at times. If you were in the car at the time I have no doubt that any of you would spot the problem. After all my fiddling with TPS and other bits it does seem a lot better but as I explained, the heat is off the summer and it is much more like normal. But since the only significant thing I have moved/played with is the TPS it may be that that has reset something now that it starts its signal from the base/start on the pot. Still not able to do a reset with a Nanocom/ testbook thingy.

Just to keep you in the picture - been rather lazy since getting the car to do more or less what it should and it is not bad. The idle is a touch lower than what I regard as normal but when I tried to rotate the TPS slightly to speed up I found it very hard to get the slight increase needed - a fraction of an inch seemed to make too big a difference so I let it sit back at the zero position. Meanwhile, the loss of power at low revs -typically in the 1000- 1500 range (throttle more or less closed just traveling on flat) - when calling for power for slight hill is slightly less noticeable. But this does seem related to ambient heat - it has become much cooler now September is here and instead of outside air being 37 ish it is more like 27. I have yet to change the CPS - it will be interesting to see if that is affecting it - but if it is a heat related fault I'd better do it soon otherwise it may not show. I think I have seen people say that the CPS can be faulty - coils failing ? as a result of heat and age - anyway it does seem related to a sensor information being wrong or variable.

Oh thanks - but now another hunt to find where it has gone - I did have the heater/ACon worked on sometime ago and I think that is beyond hope - but where did mr ratty put the temp gage wire .....................

Sorry about fuzz - yes it looks in the coolant line but if so where would the other end go to ? No easy sign of any other end hanging loose. At the moment I can't start the engine as I have to put on the new fuel pump - at least I would be able to see if the temp gauge on dash was affected !

There are two connectors now I see. The double one has never been connected as far as I can remember but I'm worried about the single one as it has a tag on it but no wire coming out. If the rats have been at it I cannot see any sign of another loose end anywhere unless they have done their homework and eaten it down to extinction !! Any ideas ? Included pic of car - tis a 3.9 if that helps. (If you are of a 'sensitive disposition' please ignore the rat trap (made in merica bought from Northern Ireland)

Well I did email Storey a couple of days ago but it must be holiday or hurricane time ! Tired of waiting so thought I could get it from the horses mouth ! (that's a compliment by the way !) Can't afford to offend anybody on here. Just to keep you on your toes - have a connector on front of my old Classic engine block (poss heat sensor) that either never has had a wire on it or Mr Rat has kindly removed it completely so will add a picture for the 'What is it' and 'where would it go' quiz ........later......

That is good information Gilbert but for novices like me - do you think EAS v4 it can do things like reset idle of the TPS ?

I read the information on the website but still not clear if that is possible - trying to judge if it would be good for me trying to keep the P38 on the road until I win the lottery !

I know I must look stupid with the things I say but they are based on the little bits of experience i have got. Your explanation as ever is perfect. I only remember carbs and inlets that appear to shut the throttle because they are shaped to fill the gap perfectly without going beyond the vertical or 90 degree position. Thinking of my Peugeot 309 petrol that I serviced the carb on. Now I understand that P38 can go further round if the stop is not correct. (this is just so you see where I was coming from). Will have to have another look !

Mine is GEMS whatever that means - yes your comment is relevant because I did have a lot of oily muck in the entrance to the throttle area and I did a bit of a clean on that. There is lots of muck around the cruise control and throttle cable where they act on the leverage but they seem to seat ok . But remember - I had no idle problems until I changed the TPS and now, having followed advice from Gilbert and others have got the idle ok again by elongating holes on TPS to adjust position for idle. So that gets me back to the original reason for fiddling about - the rough/strange running at certain speeds.

I'm wondering if the Latest EAS software v4 from Storey would help solve my problems - At about £160 it seems affordable and would pay for itself in terms of garage bills ?

By the way I've got an old Haynes manual which includes my Classic and has pretty good pictures and instructions on adjusting idle stuff.