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The only place for a coil spring is up Zebedee's arse
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Thanks Richard

I think I may have used the wrong term.
Its the base on mine i need to sort.

Can the seat base be removed easily or is it a seat out job?

Cheers Bud

Cheers.

Going to swap passenger to driver and see how that goes for starters. Never thought about doing that.

Keep you in mind guys. Thanks

Anybody know of any cheap/decent condition front seat base cushion.

I could really do with one, don't need whole seat and not really bothered what colour

Cheers guys

And also note the direct link should end with .jpg
If it doesn't, it won't work.

Changed the poxy autobox oil cooler and pipes which took about 16 bloody hrs crawling under the car. A job I don't ever want to do again..

Also did filter change which highlighted the fact the dipstick spigot had a hairline crack so ordered a new sump. Grrrr Bodge it until new one arrived and fitted it on tue ready for trip to Yorkshire.

Also discovered the pin that sits on the gearbox selector cable trunion is worn causing gear selection problems. New one ordered from lr. Quite cheap too.

For lights are feck all use unless it's foggy, besides dazzling other drivers.

I'm betting the reflectors in the lights are rather dull.
Apparently they can be cleaned up to almost new which rally helps.

Calipers

That was before my new calipers

Indeed they do. I had more trouble with the pozi screw in the disks

Carrier bolts came out easily on mine. Just used a breaker bar and some gentle but firm pressure. Iirc it was my 3/8 in sockets.

Scratch that.
Rimmer very dear on fronts now.

Rears about £20+vat

donmacn wrote:

That's an interesting comment about smelling burning that I hadn't though about - there wasn't really any smell at all - just HEAT!

As an update though, I put the car into the garage last night, in access mode, battery disconnected, and stuck four axle stands under the chassis. It'll be interesting to have a look after work and see it's dropped at all. Just because of where the axle stands adjusted up, there was roughly an inch between the stands and the chassis all round.

Apart from the suspension/steering stuff I've ordered, I'm also looking just to do a brake refurb. I've asked my local parts shop to quote for calipers/carriers/pads etc. I'm conscious that this might be britpart in the first instance (and without opening that whole can of worms....) it will hopefully get the car mobile for the moment and maybe for a few months more at least. If I end up having to swap out the calipers again, in say 6 or 7 months time, then I can get a better make then if necessary.

So tonight it starts - taking the wheels off and then getting underneath with a can of Plusgas penetrating oil on every fixing that I think I'll be tackling... but the grinder will be on standby!

Try rimmer bros for carriers. Call them if need to.
Ask for TRW . Both cheap enough front and rear iirc about £70 for all four.

I'd agree with sticking caliper piston.
Mine did that earlier this year. We could smell a burning pad smell. I found a pair of reconditioned calipers on eBay for £110 delivered.
Easy job if you take your time. A breaker bar will be useful for the bolts.
Bleeding them is easy as long as you have a helper and do it by the book

Black as a black thing. It is diesel though.
All diesel I've had were same.
Doesn't help that about 2 litres of oil stays in cooling circuit.

Genuine parts I've found to be the same price or slightly dearer than main dealer from most places tgat list them. I've found it a good indicator of whether I should visit the dealer.

I'd pull it out and see what's like.
It does have a pivot.

Thanks guys, brilliant idea with the magnet :)

The one that runs to the rear vents?

How the feck do you get the lower screw out?