rangerovers.pub
The only place for a coil spring is up Zebedee's arse
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I don't have id but I used this site to cross reference for mine on a m51 diesel.

https://en.as-pl.com/index

https://en.as-pl.com/p/A4100

https://en.as-pl.com/p/ARE4005

Mine gets sodden. New covers. There are 3 areas. The little widget that the screws go into above pollen filter,, the covers and the boxes.

https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/air-intake-pollen-filter-water-leak-fix.168313/

More than likely the actual box that's leaking.
Needs dismantling and revealing with mastic

I get it out from the front of the seat. Easy when you get a feel for it.

You can replace the tall black relay with a yellow type that are in the engine bay fusebox and everything will still work, except it will not wake up and self level and diagnostics won't work, but that just a case of replacing the black relay.

http://new.lrcat.com/#!/1234/93085/93086/7404

It's the upper rubber one that was really loose.

mad-as wrote:

between the steering wheel and the steering box is a universal type joint , this is most likely your problem . get the wife to move the steering wheel and note the movement , it needs to be minimal, like millimeters . generally not serviceable just replaceable

The lower steering shaft. Mine was knackered so I changed it. I had to cut it in half to get it off.
You can actually feel movement in the uj if you try and lift it.

I had the same issues and changed a lot of stuff.
That one did it for me.

They don't work as a current as such, it's a serial link iirc so one wire can carry multiple signals etc

If also check that connector into the dash.

Track doesn't work for me.

This is a list of the few plugins available for flaskbb

https://github.com/flaskbb/flaskbb/wiki

No longer available. I tried to get one a couple of months ago

Well that's the brake fluid fully changed and bled.
Quite easy.

I discovered that my p38 was originalyy registered on a private plate, which is probably why most places like eurocarparts etc get a lot of stuff wrong.

Fitted 2 reconditioned, second hand front calipers today. That was the easiest one I've ever done, even with corroded banjo bolts. It helps having correct tools lol.

Tomorrow I will fully bleed the booster unit and do the calipers again in the correct sequence.

Both old calipers were holding the pads on the discs causing them to overheat.

StrangeRover wrote:

Bought some terrafirma Shockers..

Old ones are ruined..

I was tempted by Boge but considering i can't get a set for the back sort of negates that idea.

  • My D2 has TF and they're quite good..

I loosened off the old ones, to see if they'd move..

Managed to compress them with 2 fingers, just pushing lightly on the bottom, so defo ruined..

enter image description here

new ones should be coming tomorra!!

enter image description here

Make sure you get the rubber bushes the right way round ;)

It's a nice simetry to it :)

Yep it's a diesel.

enter image description here

https://i.imgur.com/n6atjRT.jpg

The lock barrel is held in by a roll pin.
I'm not saying do it, but I've heard of fold drilling pin out the using a new one to lock it in again.

The best thing about using microcat on pc is the database contain most vin numbers so can give correct part for individual vehicle. The online ones don't:)

Nope. Don't fancy it lol

Wow, your really going to town.