Yep, easy as pie done both sides. Glove box side takes longer but still relatively easy.
Thats exactly what I wanted to hear :)
I'll be trying that first.
Thanks bud
Gotcha.
It used to work.
Not sure how I'll check it as instruments will be out to look lol.
I don't have a nano either :(
Gilbertd wrote:
Distribution motor, top one on the RHS accessible through the hole where the instrument cluster lives. It's either jamming part way through the travel or needs calibrating. Have you got the book showing on the HEVAC?
The easiest one I guess. No book symbol. Had one once in a blue moon.
I have a feeling its sticking inside.
Hey guys
Which blend motor would it be if I'm not getting full flow of air from the demist vents.
I'm getting air through face vents at same time as demist vents.
Thanks
Hi and welcome
Another problem with it is that it absorbs water over time and as we know, water doesn't burn.
My motorbike is a bitch to sort out as it has 4 carbs. Which reminds me.....
Martyuk wrote:
tanis8472 wrote:
Martyuk wrote:
tanis8472 wrote:
I learnt something new last night while reading the owners manual.
You're supposed to check oil level with engine hot.Never known that before
Erm, What owners manual were you reading? This is from the 2000/2001 owners manual - 3rd edition:
ENGINE OIL LEVEL CHECK & TOP-UP
Check the oil level at least every 400 km
(250 miles) when the engine is COLD and with
the vehicle resting on level ground, as follows:
- Withdraw the dipstick and wipe the blade
clean.- Fully reinsert the dipstick and withdraw
again to check the level, which should
NEVER be allowed to fall below the lower
mark on the dipstick.- To top-up, unscrew the oil filler cap and
add oil to maintain the level between the
UPPER and LOWER marks on the dipstick.
DO NOT OVERFILL!NOTE: If it is necessary to check the oil level
when the engine is hot, switch off the engine
and let the vehicle stand for five minutes to
allow the oil to drain back into the sump. Then
follow the procedure already described1996
Well that is a new one on me alright....
I just looked in the handbooks I've got here - and the one from my 1998 GEMS is a 1997 publication and it also shows to check it when HOT... same as the image you posted says... But then I look at the other handbooks I've got for my 2000 and 2001's and they both say to check COLD and wait 5 mins if it has to be checked when HOT...
Weird...
I know, it's not a mistake as the second paragraph confirms the first.
Weird
Did you get that diesel p38?
Gilbertd wrote:
Obviously a diesel thing, but it does say to leave it for 5 minutes for the oil to all drain back to the sump. I can't see it will make much difference to the level hot or cold.
No, specifically the v8!
Look at the top above first paragraph
Martyuk wrote:
tanis8472 wrote:
I learnt something new last night while reading the owners manual.
You're supposed to check oil level with engine hot.Never known that before
Erm, What owners manual were you reading? This is from the 2000/2001 owners manual - 3rd edition:
ENGINE OIL LEVEL CHECK & TOP-UP
Check the oil level at least every 400 km
(250 miles) when the engine is COLD and with
the vehicle resting on level ground, as follows:
- Withdraw the dipstick and wipe the blade
clean.- Fully reinsert the dipstick and withdraw
again to check the level, which should
NEVER be allowed to fall below the lower
mark on the dipstick.- To top-up, unscrew the oil filler cap and
add oil to maintain the level between the
UPPER and LOWER marks on the dipstick.
DO NOT OVERFILL!NOTE: If it is necessary to check the oil level
when the engine is hot, switch off the engine
and let the vehicle stand for five minutes to
allow the oil to drain back into the sump. Then
follow the procedure already described
1996
I learnt something new last night while reading the owners manual.
You're supposed to check oil level with engine hot.
Never known that before
Don't use bathroom silicone sealants. They are acetic acid based, hence vinegar smell, and corrode metal .
Grizzly wrote:
Thanks Rich
I cant find the original fuel flap relay, is it worth just looking on ebay ?
I know I have the plastic clip on my watch list, oh but I do need to find the button aswell as the button that i Imagine was to the left of the steering wheel, is now just a hole.
Also is there a feature similar to my RRS, if I unlock it and don't actually open the door. It will relock itself.
Is this part of the passive feature also
Yes it will relock itself after a while.
Grizzly wrote:
The eas has been butchered.
All 4 corners have been out on manual inflation.
I have a refurb kit coming for the compressor and dryer plus some new hose to connect the lines back to the compressor
More than likely that's reason for eas message compressor not working brings up hard fault.
Eas is a hard fault if its staying on. Need to read codes to find out why, the fix and reset. Easunlock by storey Wilson is free with cheap cable.
Airbag fault, check connectors under the seats.
JMCLuimni wrote:
Found it.....
Inner right rear pad had disintegrated completely.....
Gouged the rotor badly.....
A complete mess back there.
Ive ordered a pair of rear calipers, rotors and pads from a company called RockAuto. Would highly recommend them for parts. Saved me at least 20% from where I could have found the cheapest elsewhere.....
Glad it was only that because I was expecting the worst.....
Cheap isn't always good. Especially with brakes :)
Btw, the rear doors are operated directly by the becm once the becm sees the drivers door unlock.
Hello, i recognise that name
Also, the viscous fan should be making a noise like a plane taking off for about 10 to 20 seconds and the go noticeably quieter.
It's worth checking the metallic coil on the viscous unit to make sure it's not crudded up with crap.
Having changed mine a couple of years ago it's only ever come on fully when we have had really hot days and been climbing steep hills.