Well, the results are in, and they are very conclusive, if counter intuitive......
Rather than doing this on the vehicle, I set up a test rig in the shop.
Filling an 9.5l tank from empty to 125 Psi.
Vbatt was 12.1v for the duration of both tests.
With the reeds in the "Logical" configuration with the long reed beneath the short spacer :
50 Psi- 5 Min
75 Psi- 10 Min
100 Psi- 17 Min
125 Psi- 21 Min
Annnnnnnd......In the "Normal" configuration with the short spacer beneath the long reed:
50 Psi- 2 Min 10 Sec
75 Psi- 3 Min 45 Sec
100 Psi- 5 Min 45 Sec
125 Psi- 7 Min 45 Sec
So, surprising but conclusive proof that the designers got it right, The intake reed is indeed not supposed to directly cover the hole..Go figure?
This would be something to look for if the compressor has been rebuilt by PO and seems a bit slow to pump up.
This was done with a used pump of unknown age. (Tag missing) But probably 99-02 vintage
As the motor and bearings sound very good, I will now go and rebuild it with a new kit, and re test. Just to see if it makes any
difference (and to know I have a good spare.)
I will try the "air up from empty" test today with both orientations, and report back.....
Thanks for posting photos, Gilbert.
Anyone got an exploded view diagram of this beast?
It would seem to me the short piece would be on top to act as an progressive "Leaf" spring assist for the actual working reed.
Assembling them with the short bit underneath could cause a lot of bending moment against the shorter one, possibly leading to
fatigue and cracking??
I can not understand just why the designer would handicap the capacity so badly?
Got caught up with boat projects so will check the other 2 pumps in the morning.
I may even purge the system and time how long to full with both assembly methods.......
That is the exhaust side It has guides in the casting to keep it aligned, I am talking the intake reed.......No O ring. just flaps on the flat surface
Aloha,
I have been messing about with a couple of spare compressors this afternoon and have noticed something possibly amiss.....
The exhaust valve makes sense with it's O ring seal and stiff backing plate, but the way both of the units I took apart were assembled, the
intake reed valve has a short piece under it which effectively prevents it from sealing on the flat surface of the head. This allows a lot of air to return to the intake side
on every compression stroke!
Thinking this was wrong, and as I have 2 on the bench, I assembled one as it was (and like I saw in several you tube videos) with the short intake reed below
and one with it in the logical place, above.....
Upon bench testing, the second method provided about 2x the airflow. To eliminate the variables of piston and motor, I swapped the order of assembly on both and re tested.
Same result. Short reed above and long reed on the bottom works much better......
Next, I will check the 2 pumps on the Borrego and Bolt.....
Thoughts?
Theories?
Cheers!
Tom
All good now.....
It was not happy with my version of firefox...
See ya in a bit.
Will there be a new sign in?
The old one delivers a black page on my pc....
Cheers!
StrangeRover wrote:
It runs for 10 seconds and can cut out for several minutes only to cut in again for 20 seconds and then cut out for 10 then back off for a few minutes LOL
The motor did turn very easily..
I had (have?) the same issue with the EAS I just fitted to the Borrego.
Compressor will run for a short period, shut off, then re start.
Temperature is not a factor, and Nano reports temp switch normal, compressor ON and pressure switch OPEN.
None of the states change until the system pumps up fully, then switch closes and compressor says it is OFF
This seems to have gone mostly away after a few days. ("It will ride in with wear sir"?)
This EAS was removed from the knackers yard, and I have not done anything to it other than to pull the idiot springs and install it.
I have ordered an Pump kit and have a rebuilt valve block ready to go in.
Also noticed that the compressor is really noisy, so will no go out and check the washers....
Also got my new accumulator in the post today for Bolt! (Only took a month to get here! UKAR)
I would be interested to hear if you have any luck figuring out the intermittent running issue.
Remember.....Mad As is in Tazzie, which is very nearly a part of Australia, so any old o'clock is beer o'clock!
Mayhaps a nice coffee porter?
Hmmmmm.
8pm....Looks like noon here, so I may have to drink iced tea! Dang!
It is always good to be able to put a face to a name.......
I like it!
Sighhhhh...............
I had forgotten about my rear washer.........And, YEA, I know I Was asking for it!
HOWEVER, that is not important.....
I made a quick run to the hardware store, and noticed a drip from a strange place.
Thought it was AC drain, but no....The small spigot on the bottom of the expansion tank has split 50% of the way and coolant was spraying out in a fine mist, and dripping down the frame...Caught it in plenty of time.
Question is:
What is a decent replacement? OEM is stupid money, and I have no experience with any of the others.
Partsgeek offers a large selection for reasonable $$.
Any thoughts?
I did EAS on the Borrego, and found that the Muppets at the tire shop had blasted the nuts on so tight that
my poor old 1/2 inch breaker bar just could not break them. I had to go borrow a 3/4 in drive bar and socket from a truck mechanic friend and use a 4 ft pipe on that......Had to stand on the end and bounce as well.
Not rusted, just very tight. Glad I had not needed to change a flat at the roadside!
Used a bit of anti seize and torqued to proper values.
I used to always check on the tire shop's work the same day I had tires done, and failed to do that this time.
Looking at getting one of these impacts as well.......One of us always carried one when out in the Oz Bush......
tanis8472 wrote:
Gilbertd wrote:
Or at least there shouldn't be, even though Bolt admitted that he walked around to the front of the car and looked at the RH side as looking at it......
I did laugh to myself lol
Yea, well, I laughed at myself pretty good at the time too!
I was just VERY happy it was something as simple as confusing oneself, not a broken wire somewhere!
Had to confess my screw up to Gilbert, knowing he would be merciful ;)........(Big round thing indeed!)
It has occurred to me that as i have calibrated the EAS on both of these beasts this AM, I now have 2 P-38s that.......
EVERY SINGLE LITTLE DETAILED BIT WORKS!!!!!!
No issues of any type with any system on either one! Fully functioning factory stock DSP stereos as well!
I am Sooooo HAPPY, yet being at the pinnacle of P-38 ownership, where do we go from here??????
I mean, What could possibly go wrong?
Cheers!
Tom
Gilbertd wrote:
He says he has, but there's two ways to achieve it, either with the harness that plugs into the BeCM or with two wire jumpers on the plug to the EAS ECU. Difference is the harness costs around £50 and two bits of wire cost a lot less than that but they both do the same job. I can't see anyone fitting both but it's always possible I suppose.
They used the "Cut the Blue/white Blue/pink wires at the Becm, Earth one and run the other to B+ to put it in manual" method.
Thanks Marshall, that was actually job #1 soldering the Blue/white and Blue/Pink wires back together.
So..........
I could not face tearing out the centre console of Bolt yet again, so I trundled over to the local breakers yard where they have had an 98 for about 18 months now.....Not much good left at this point.
Got both the height switch module and just for fun, the inhibit switch both for 10 bucks. Got Lucky!!
Got back, cleaned the grime off the adjuster and plugged it in.......Instant gratification!
As you have observed, Gilbert, there is a bunch going on inside that module. It does a self test of all 4 leds on Ign on, then settles down to the correct spot. It also appears that the Binnacle display may be driven by it as well since in testing, whenever the top LED is on, no matter what else is on, the binnacle symbol comes up as well.
Now, to go out and put all wires and trim back, after giving the sill channels a good clean of course!
The compressor is still doing odd short cycles, but that is gonna be tomorrows job!
In all, I found the delay relay failed, the EAS controller is dodgy as it shows inhibit at all times, There was a serious leak at the front most tube collet on the valve body, and, of course, someone got clever with the switch module....destroying it!
All up, it is ~almost~ understandable (If totally inexcusable) that the PO put on springs.......
Total out of pocket to put it back? $227.00 and about 8 hours total labor. The worst part was removing the stupid springs without a proper tool!
Anyone wanna buy a set of slightly used OME springs? Cheep!
Thanks for the help!
Cheers,
Tom
Thanks, I have been tearing into things and have one point of contention......You said:
"Wiring from the ECU to the switch and display goes via the connector behind the LH kick panel. In your case this would be the one on the drivers side, left as sitting in the car, the side with that big round thing you use to make it go round corners...."
If this is the case, then I would expect that unplugging both of the LH connectors would extinguish the lights........
I was able to get the switch lights to go out by unplugging the larger of the 2 white plugs on the Right side kick panel...(That's the side that all of your cars have the turny thing installed erroneously on......)
In any case, When I came back to it after posting (and lunch) I found that the only light on was the top one, and the dash indicator for Extended mode was on......Nothing would change this condition, and all worked normally any way.
Unplugged the ECU to clean and grease contacts, wiggled wires under the dash and when i switched on again, the upper 3 lights are on, and not the bottom most......
I will swap out the switch with my known good one and report back.......
This is an interesting one!!
At least I know all the kick panel connectors are clean!
Cheers!
Tom
The adventure continues.......
This morning, all was as yesterday, then I switched out the ECU from Bolt (Known Working) and the problem remained.
All 4 lights on, The dash showing High position, compressor cycling, and Nano showing switch as "OPEN" but Compressor as "ON"
When I swapped back in the other ECU, the lights all went out. The dash indicator saying High Mode went out as well......Compressor still whacked out....
Now the dash indicator does not illuminate even when Extended height is selected.
The switches still work as normal and it will go from Access to Low Profile, Standard and Extended just fine.
Inhibit switch works too.
I got into the LEFT side kick panel (The side with the big turny thing on it) and found the connectors to be pretty nice.
I gave them a good scrub with Meths and applied a bit of Silicone grease for future protection.
No change. Odd observation though........If I push the inhibit switch the Led turns on as normal, however unplugging both the plugs in the LH kick does nor extinguish the light on the switch??
I have inspected the looms in the door sill, and opened up the plug on the ECU....All look good.
It would seem the wiring to the dash switch possibly has a different route?
I will drop the panel under the wheel and have a poke around there.......
Somewhere there is a reason the PO castrated it....just gotta find it!
Does the driver pack play into this at all? I have 2 complete spare EAS under bonnet boxes......
Oh, I found the delay relay was faulty.......
Cheers!
Thanks for the timely information!
OK, As painful as I find this, I will have to disclose just what the "Wiring issue" was.........There was NO sensor on the LEFT side........
The Nano was telling me the issue was on the Left side, I saw that, and walked around the front to the RIGHT side as faced from the front....
Several times!!
Oops, Total and complete brain fart!!!
I had removed both sensors some time ago to attempt to help out Kulture with his EAS........I knew the RH one was missing, so had re installed it........Did not bother to turn my head to look at the glaring blank space on the other side......Sighhhhhhhh..........................
So, one standard issue "Dope Slap" for myself!
Now, I have the EAS working very well with a couple of odd issues.
Here goes:
1 All 4 of the lights on the dash switch illuminate at all times (EAS dash switch has been pried open and epoxied back shut by a PO)
2 The Compressor is cycling frequently, like every 15-30 seconds. There are no leaks.
3 Per Nano: Running or not, Compressor always shows as "ON" Pressure switch shows as "OPEN" Thermal Switch "Normal"
4 "Park / Handbrake" indicates "ON" no matter what position it is in. Dash indicator for Handbrake works fine.
5 "Extended height" symbol on dash is illuminated at all times.
I swapped ECUs and the only difference is that the Inhibit switch started working normally.
I may try ECU from Bolt as well as Dash switch to eliminate those if no one has an insight??
Took it for an on /off road test, and it is back to having that Schweet "glide of a ride!" Also, self adjusts based upon speed as normal, just cannot tell from the switch indicators....
Cheers,
Tom
Aloha,
Well, today's job is putting all of the EAS bits back on the Borrego!
So far so good, I have determined the method used to place it in Manual mode, and reversed that damage.
It looks like they also unplugged the switches on the dash.....
Gotta tear into the centre console for that one. I do have it raising and lowering nicely and no leaks found so far.
NOW, I have been trying to figure out the initial reason they were convinced to castrate it in the first place......
Looks like (Per Nano) the RH front sensor reads 24 no matter its position. no deviation at all. So, a wiring issue.
Nano throws a fault for out of Range sensor. Pot tests good on the bench.
Question is: just how many potentially corroded plugs do those 3 wires go through on the way to the controller???
I cannot access Rave at this moment......If no feedback soon, I will attack the kick panel plugs on both sides.
I also cannot seem to log on to the Pub on my Android tablet in the shop. Seems to have something to do with Catptha?
Cheers,
Tom
Aloha, I have made the last 2 posts here in "Opening Time" as they were not electrical, or oily in nature......
Please advise if they should be elsewhere?
Yesterdays fun was replacing the right side blend motor. having read Rave, and the tips and tricks from the old .net site,
I went with the drop the glovebox, cut the duct, drill a hole for hidden screw method, and was able to get it changed.
I spliced the wires at the HVAC plug, for ease of access.
After installation, and taping the duct, I tested it for function, and found that during the process of shifting the ducts, I
dislodged the pipe that runs across to the RH side vent! No way to get it together from beneath!
SO, I thought to simply remove the Passenger side Air bag.....Looks easy with the 4 torx screws and a plug.........
Just gotta pop off the trim above the glove box.....Yea! Right!! Using Jos Guese's instructions from .net, I tried to gently but firmly get it to pop loose. It would not budge!.
In doing this however I noticed that the whole mess is a bit flexible, in that a padded airbag case is nestled in a padded dash.
Thus, the tip of the day for anyone trying to get the bloody airbag out is to use a thin, flat pry bar (Stanley Wonder Bar) and gently lever the bottom edge of the airbag up over the top of the trim strip. It actually pops out easily.
Make note of the clear lexan spacers on the lower front of the airbag to be sure they go back where they belong. Replacement is reverse
with the top edge going in first, then just gently prise the trim back to allow the 2 tabs on the airbag to drop in to the slot.
With airbag out, it was easy to fix the duct work although, I never worked out where the odd 100 mm wide U shaped convoluted spring clip came from???? It just fell out as soon as I started messing round with the ducts....
You also gain great access to the blend motors from above!
Note: Be careful when putting the air bag back that the glove box release cable is correctly routed, and not pinched under the forward left attachment point of the bracket.....If you do, you will need to drop the glove box, remove the airbag again, and shift the cable......Just saying.....
Easy 2 hour job........next time! 4 hours for the first go. I would have also done O rings at this time if I had thought to get some beforehand.
Cheers!