Pierre3 wrote:

The Yuasa HSB344 from Halfords UK is [from] £129, so not a lot cheaper than in Ireland. Although I am not quite sure what they mean by "from". Surely it is either £129 or not ???

From probably doesn't include fitting in the price bit, if Halfords over here are anything to go by. Though you probabbly don't want them to fit it anyway!

Transfer box should have ATF in it (Red)
Auto gearbox should be ATF (Red)
Manual gearbox should have gear oil (Not red, maybe brown/orange or green depending whats been used)

Don't know which you've got, but that should cover it? Assuming its filled up with the correct fluid of course!

DavidAll wrote:

This may help. A bit of an odd angle. Probably going to need to drill out the bolts too.

Cheers David, odd angle but that does explain whats missing now I've had a look at it. His looks closer to StrangeRover's photos, rotten and the plastic bits have disappeared completely.

The metal bit inside the bumper on his appears to have detached itself from the rest of the bumper, this bit

How is that usually joined to ANR2381? And is the metal tray bit shown in the above stuck into the bumper normally, bolted or somehow else attached? or are we missing more bits?

At least you didn't manage to do this, which occoured on a site I was on a couple of weeks ago (not my doing either!)

That cable was feeding a secondary fusebox, the damage was done by an electrician from the other side of the wall when he was trying to get a cable through the wall. Apprentice who was given the job to do under supervision got the blame for it from his supervisor as well.

Then as if that wasn't bad enough, in his efforts to repair the cable, he somehow cut his hand getting blood all over the carpet in the process.

I think you could say it wasn't his day!

Richard - RCBO's are available in the UK, but cost around 10 times the equivilent MCB so are rarely used. I put one in on a couple of sockets in the workshop after discovering that the sockets in question were only on an MCB, not even protected via an RCD. This was discovered when an extension cable managed to get chopped through by a falling bit of concrete when we had the floor redone and nothing tripped out at all. Further investiation of the consumer unit showed up some "interesting" wiring ideas which have now been removed (like said trailing socket mentioned earlier wired into one of the MCBs in the next area etc).

That helps somewhat, thanks, Never got down there to have a look today as was the plan, but think i can see where he means needs welding back on now.

Thanks

Cheers, going to have a look at the bumper side today, it's the caps into the bumper that I'm not sure about, looks to me that the caps somehow clip into the bumper as far as I could tell?

Other side as you say bolts in, those are so rusted they definitely won't undo, but might fall off?

Hi All

Slightly daft question it may sound like (and wasn't sure if this was best put in here or oily bits) but the rear bumper on my mate's p38 has fallen off today, as the bits that attach to the end of the chassis have turned to rust. I'm over 100 miles away and think from the photos that the bits he needs are the two mounts, ANR2381. I can find these, but the guy with him is saying they need to be welded to the bumper. I think they clip in place somehow but just wanted to confirm if thats the case if anyone knows?

I've got a couple of photos of the bits that have gone rusty, will try to link them now, but not the inside of the bumper.

The original plugs you took out are platinum, which accounts for the difference in the electrode. At least RC11PYPB seems to be platinum, your new ones are standard copper I think. The disadvantage with them lasting longer is they can be more difficult to get to move when you do need them, I always use a bit of copperslip on plugs. Its one of the few jobs I find wd40 can be useful when removing them, though not so much on the Rover v8 (other engines where they go in vertically can quite effectively soak around the plug and let it run down the threads as soon as you get it to start moving then).

Most on here don't rate Champion plugs either, tending to go with NGK as said above.

Do you mean the orange bit you can see in one of the photos? I can't see any sign of a fan there, the orange bit you can see I think is the handle of a bucket being used to catch the old oil?

Certainly looks like its leaking oil from the edge there to me, looks very much like what I can see from underneath mine actually, though the other bank on yours looks drier than mine does. You will find out once the heads are off as it should be a lot more obvious then.

You should be able to see the gearbox outputs in Nano if you have one (you mention diagnostics?), there is a table in Rave to tell you what each selection should be. When mine failed (D2 uses a slightly different but very similar switch) you could see one switch didn't switch as fast as it should do, and would drop into limp mode randomly. More annoyingly it also wouldn't start like that, once I found what the problem was moving the stick between gears was usually enough to get it to move again. One of the springs in mine seemed to have weakened - you could feel it would press with almost no resistance at all to pressure. Repalcement switch was the only option at that point.

The only thing I could see that might be making the difference is if it meant the oil control rings were doing their job better, thereby not sending excess oil down the exhaust where it can contaminate the lambda sensor, honeycomb of the cat (possibly also causing it to become sticky and attaching further debris) and thereby causing eventual failure of the cat. Oil isn't generally wanted to go down the exhaust system in cat equipped vehicles for both of the reasons above. Trouble is by the time its failed in the manner described, it might be hard to see what started the process by the amount of damage done.

Lpgc wrote:

Bri, just to clarify, which city(s) reckon they will or may allow monofuel LPG vehicles to avoid emissions zone charges?

On range, there are not a lot of vehicles on which removal of the petrol tank would make space for much extra LPG capacity but there are some..

You have their response word for word as from the email in the post above, the only bit I removed was the case ref. Sadly doesn't give any info on that. I'm not even sure its 100% correct as it seems a bit vague.

It was raised as a query for the CAZ checker - which currently covers Bath and Birmingham, I believe Bristol and Leeds will be added as their schemes get to the point where the required standards are clear. As far as I knew, Leeds wasn't yet active? (your closer to the place than me, so maybe you know better on this point?) Bristol still seems to be deciding which scheme they are going to use.

Good point on range about removing the petrol tank, but it still leaves you stuck if you turn up at a filling station with little left in the tank and find its out of order. Round here the closest station to me doesn't have another one working within 15 miles. And its not like you could turn up with a jerry can if its on gas only!

Simon has posted here > https://www.lpgforum.co.uk/viewtopic.php?f=27&t=14263&p=112046&hilit=elgrand#p112046 and Here > https://forum.elgrandoc.uk/threads/the-e51-catalytic-converter-problem.5443/page-9 about it. The guess would probabbly be it failing on one side (of the v6) so half the engine runs ok, whilst the other half struggles to push anything out of its blocked exhaust. In that case, I'd expect its compressing the sump as the exhaust can't escape where it should do and oil is then getting where it shouldn't?

The main problem is that the front cats break up, and then can't get out of the way as the rear cats catch the broken bits and block up, at least that seems to be the explanation in that case.

The bit in the quotes above was from my query to them (which was basically why is London ok but not Birmingham for the same vehicle). I'd submitted the question using the link at the bottom of this page > https://www.gov.uk/clean-air-zones - online contact form.

The general theme of it is they are still working on it. The impression I get is the car in question was an early adopter of Euro 4 status and that seems why TFL say its ok, but the logbook for it doesn't state the Euro status. The other serivce above that Davew linked to seems to show its actually classed as Euro 3 on there.

On the lpg monofuel setup side, You'd want a decent size tank setup to be sure you weren't going to run out, with the way stations are at present round here its very unpredictable where you can get it some of the time.

Gilbertd wrote:

Maybe they are fitting single points?

Like the homemade one? - Cylinder plumbed in using a tap to control the flow and very little else. Saw it on Youtube linked from the LPG forum some time back. Think that was someone with an old Mondeo.

Gilbertd wrote:

Be interested to know which one is OK. The P38 meets Euro 3 so shouldn't be ULEZ compliant but there is obviously an error in the TfL database as it shows a 2000 or later, 4.0 litre P38 as complaint but a 4.6 isn't, even though they both meet the same standard. One other loophole was filled when they changed from the T-Charge to ULEZ. Under T-Charge an import, which doesn't have emissions data on the V5, was considered exempt, whereas under ULEZ, it isn't.

Found the reply I was looking for in amongst the 16k emails in my inbox, I've put the bit about gas in bold from their response below. Not in response to a P38 (not even a Land Rover in this case) but the gas bit might be of interest. Though the only gas-only vehicle I know of is Robert's Medusa from the other forum.

"Thank you for your enquiry received on 4/3/2021. Your case reference number is *.
We appreciate that you have taken the time to contact us in relation to this matter.?
It may help if I explain that the Clean Air Zone scheme is not linked to Transport for London's Ultra-Low Emission Zone and can only be found in locations outside London. However, we are working with Transport for London to ensure as much consistency as possible between our Clean Air Zone vehicle checker and the ULEZ system. We would advise all drivers to use the relevant vehicle checker for the zone they intend to travel into if they are unsure if their vehicle meets the standards.

A vehicle would need to run solely on gas to be exempt from charges. As you have advised that the vehicle runs on both petrol and LPG gas, the vehicle does not fall under the exempt fuel type and so would still be subject to Clean Air Zone charges where that vehicle type is chargeable.
The vehicle would need to meet the minimum emission standards for the zone the vehicle will travel into or within.
If the vehicle does meet the required emission standards, it would not be subject to charges.
After checking the vehicle record, I can see the Euro Status is missing.
Work is ongoing to provide an accurate result for vehicles which may have adopted a Euro standard before it was legally required to do so. You are not required to take any action at present as we are working closely with manufacturers and partners to update the results for these vehicles before the launch of the first Clean Air Zones.

If your vehicle has adopted the Euro 4 status, I would expect that it would be compliant with the emission standards of Clean Air Zones, and so would not be subject to Clean Air Zone charges.

When this information is updated, the Clean Air Zone checker will be able to provide the information to show if your vehicle is compliant or whether you would be subject to a charge when entering the Clean Air Zone.
Please check back closer to the time of the Clean Air Zone launch for this information.
I trust this is of assistance to you."

I did post something along the lines of what Davew has said earlier in the thread, but looks like in the process of "posting" it, i didn't actually press the reply button.

The rattling mentioned further back suggests the honeycomb had started to break up. Thats usually down to either misfire damage or too high temperatures from lean running, or striking the cat (possible with off road use I'd guess?). The cats are that far back in the exhaust I'd doubt it would be lean running, more likely misfires due to a failed coil pack or other ignition issue. Given you've rebuilt the engine I'd imagine you've addressed the original issue if it was anything more than just age related.

If its like the one I've seen, you'd struggle to even get the probe in the exhaust pipe as its tiny.

The response I got when enquiring about one of mine, was that if it was a full gas only vehice (not Bi-fuel) that it would. Can't find the email now but it was asking why one of mine was ok for the Ulez but not Birmingham when the same standard is applied to both places.

I think Bristol ditched that plan a few months back, and are now going with the same scheme Birmingham are bringing in in June
https://www.bristol.gov.uk/streets-travel/bristol-caz/charges-and-checker

Scotland on the other hand, have the plan to ban non-compliant vehicles entirely when they bring theirs in.