The Clutch (if its a manual box) and brake switches both play a part in it. If either fails in the right way, you won't get it to engage. Looks like looking at Rave (page 304 of 1361 if your looking at the same version as me) that you have 2 circuits on the brake switch, so it may be possible to test that with a multimeter if you have no other way to access it. I can't see much other info on the cruise for the diesel, though I think its somewhat simpler than the v8 setup simply as you don't need something to pull the throttle open as its already electronically controlled so most of the bits used by the cruise other than the swtiches are part of other systems anyway?
I don't know if the diesel will speak to normal obd diagnostics if you have anyone that can do that (for the engine only) but theres a few on here that may be able to confirm that. That may be enough to point you in the right direction if its a failed part like the switches?
The diesel doesn't work like that. This post may help explain, but you won't have the vacuum pipes etc that the v8 has.
It might be an idea to get someone else to drive it and have a look at it from a second vehicle if you can do so. May be nothing to see, but its surprising to see how many vehicles you see going round with shocks that have clearly completely failed and the wheel bouncing all over the place as it goes along a dual carriageway or motorway with very little roughness on the road.
I don't have one, but they do exist as part of a number plate surround for a normal numberplate. You mount the camera in its frame to the car and attach the plate to it.
Example > https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/172300142379
You might be on to something there, though I can't imagine anyone really wanting one for anything other than a museum. Same applies to a few other cars my parents had - Austin Princess, Maxi and the FSO Poloniz being the 3 standout examples that come to mind that you'd never want to go near again.
Theres someone else with a obviously very well cared for Austin Maxi I've seen a few times in town. It just begs the question of why!
That might mean someone else was trying to ban him at the same time. LPGforum kicks up some errors when two people are trying to moderate the same posts at the same time.
Or the H Reg Maestro which someone has near me. Which whilst it may be in pristine condition, is still a Maestro.
I'd suggest you check the propshaft universal joints as well, When i had one fail it would thump and clunk when changing direction of travel (they are somewhat easier to fit than the cv joints as well once you have the propshaft off as well).
Wouldn't take it as a guarantee that the tanks won't be replaced - the local Shell here has not long had new tanks. Unfortuantely at this point in time both the local stations are empty, as was Asda at Derby this afternoon when I tried to fill there. If they sell enough to make money on it, your probabbly ok for a while yet, particually if theres little competition for them
The independent BP garages you refer to are really MFG operated. Which unlike when they were operated under Malthurst seem to think they can ask prices that would be more suited to a motorway services, despite owning some of the most run down forecourts your ever likely to find. Unfortunately they now make up a sizable amount of the remaining pumps left.
The bolts on the cover on microcat show the 5/16 thread if that's any help. With 5 of one length and 6 of another.
I've got a Pure Highway H270SB (well had 4 of them in total) though not in a P38. I wouldn't recommend them as I've had 1 of the 4 fail under warranty (DAB tuner totally gave up), another fail out of warranty (bluetooth drops any connected device after 10-30 seconds of use) and the other two work for the most part, though are prone to the DAB tuner throwing a fit every so often and needing the reset button pressing, which removes all your presets.
Actually to say the remaining 2 still work isn't entirely true, one of them the select button take a few presses to get it to select a station. Which combined with the routine resetting they need, is more of a pain than it might at first sound.
The highway sounds like the better option (the one that broadcasts over low power fm radio) though having seen inside a couple of other failed Pure radios, I don't think the quality of their kit is particually good personally. Though I'm not a fan of touchscreen operated car stereos in general, buttons are easier when you want to just operate it without having to look at it. The Highway 600 might be better than the original (which I've also used briefly).
I've had a couple of JVC stereos and they have been good - the only downside to them is the way the DAB tuner works is a bit clumsy compared to the Pure ones, but once you get your head round how to work it they work very well. Only reason I replaced the original pair of JVC stereos I had for vehicles was they lacked bluetooth or any form of Aux in port. The handsfree on the JVC is a lot better than the Pure ever managed, it seems to do noise cancellation a lot better than the Pure and is clearer to hear the other end of the call as well. The highway 600 may be better in that respect, but I'd be unwilling to give Pure any more cash given what I've seen of their kit personally.
Craig-Robinson wrote:
Bolt wrote:
And yet, you have not answered the variously phrased question:
When you turn the key and "Crank" it, or jump the relay under the bonnet, does it go:
"RrrrRrrrRrrrRrrrRrrr" Or does it go "Click"
New starter will certainly not hurt, but if there is a wiring issue, bad relay, etc, you will keep on chucking parts at it with no result.
A dodgy starter can sometimes be diagnosed by having some one turn the key to the "Crank" position, whilst you are under the car ready to give the starter a good belt with a soft headed hammer. If it goes, then the brushes have had it, and it is time for a rebuild / replacementPerhaps you should learn to read what is very clearly written, instead of responding the way you have. Here is my response way before your comment that addressed that very point.
"May 31, 2021, 5:03 PM #6
I jumped the starter fine yesterday but the car wouldn't start at all. All that was happening was a click. Today? The starter motor is doing nothing at all. I guess that answers my problem, or does it? I can't get under the car easily myself so, with that in mind (if that is the problem) then I'm goosed right now."
So thanks for nothing.
You should be able to give the starter a sufficient tap from above with a long implement of some kind - a broom handle may be enough for example. You should be able to see it from the drivers side of the car. Seems a bit odd that its gone from cranking but not starting, to not cranking though maybe repeated attempts to start have just finished it off, particually given its age from what you've posted. Maybe if it wasn't cranking over fast enough to actually start but that seems unlikely to me.
Potential for having the starter given a regular oil drowning is present if you have oil leaking from either the valley gasket or the head gasket on that side. Which I think is what killed my first starter motor solenoid though finding the trigger wire wasn't a good fit wasn't helping any. As you suggest pulling it off at this point and getting the old one rebuilt isn't the worst of ideas anyway. AAPoldham on ebay was the best price when I replaced mine (and was recommended on here previously) > https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/302515291957 should be whats needed. But that clearly won't fix any issue with the supply cable or trigger wire to it either.
The other thing to check will be the sparks as mentioned further up in the thread, but until you get to the cause of the lack of cranking issue theres nothing much you can do on that score. Lack of any sparks likely to be indicating a faulty crank sensor if nothing else appears to be amiss. I don't think thats likely to log a fault code either as far as I know unless its been unplugged possibly rather than died.
Gilbertd wrote:
Immobilised? Or just won't start?
Theres more info in his post in the Electrickery section > https://rangerovers.pub/topic/2422-2001-4-0-hse-no-crank-so-won-t-start
The one thing I can't see you having said you've done, is checked the XYZ switch (which would only apply if its an Automatic)?
Does the gear display in the dash and lights on the stick indicate the right gear? The Nanocom will tell you the positions of the 3 switches and Rave will tell you what they should be in each gear. If it doesn't see either Neutral or park, it will not attempt to start.
Have a look at the link I posted above Simon, that explains it better than possible here. That Galaxy I have would be in the £575 rate if it was newer than 2006. As it stands, it's clear for both the Ulez and the Burm CAZ now. The online checker confirmed the Brum one to have changed recently.
It's the bit at the bottom of the table that's making the difference for band k
"*Includes cars with a CO2 figure over 225g/km but were registered before 23 March 2006."
Theres a separate bracket of tax classes that take effect from 2006. Upto then, the max tax class comes out at £340 a year. After that theres 3 further brackets for vehicles producing more co2.
Bands k/l/m here. k covers all over 225g upto 2006, l for 225-255g £585 and m for over 255g £600 after that
https://www.gov.uk/vehicle-tax-rate-tables/rates-for-cars-registered-on-or-after-1-march-2001
I'd agree that older vehicles aren't appropiate for an MOT test, but at the same time I've seen enough to say as said above, a second pair of eyes giving them an appropiate once over is needed. Yes most of the MOT may not apply, but that doesn't mean nothing at all should be checked by someone independent and qualified to say what they are looking at is reasonably safe (or as safe as it can be in the case of some vehicles).
Having seen a Series IIA where the front seats were only secured on one side of the seat each and a completely non-functional handbrake being driven about, and other similar and even more dangerous faults on older stuff, you can't rely on the owners to keep stuff in a good enough state by themselves (some will, others need the regular testing to keep it somewhere close to an acceptable standard).
Don't have so much of an issue of the driver coming to an untimley end due to their own actions, but they can hurt others in the process after all.
mad-as wrote:
hi Pierre3 you are required to do nothing other than take some notice of the comments and make your own decisions, thats the media comments that is . you will see what is going on with the way it's put to you . as thunderburg would say "you have 1 year to make the change before it's to late " push the fear factor , create confusion buy not stating what the change will be and then give direction buy doing what she says . sorry it's not a joke , it's what is really happening and most are not seeing it . it is also how the media works ,especially when it comes to the government or the side they pick in an election .
PS i don't know what will happen if all the cars run on h2 , it's a question that i asked and isnt it all about the weather? if their is a risk that the weather pattern might change then it;s a no go as that is what all this is based on ,weather patterns . how humid would it be in heavy traffic in the city with no wind , an increase in humidity could produce fungus and molds too., we just dont know the effects and they are not going to tell you . as you stated the steam trains didn't cause a problem but they moved all the time not sat stagnant in traffic so the spread was greater also they didnt come in their millions world wide. just looking at the big picture
As far as the hydrogen is concerned, the water generated from its use, would only be the same amount as what it was produced from in the first place. Yes it might be distributed elsewhere to its original source, but i can't see that making much real difference overall. Burning petrol/gas etc releases some water vapour as well and that seems to make very little difference.
I'd agree on the electric option for around town use - though in a lot of cases the "use" there isn't the most sensible way of some of that way vehicles are used, personally going round the supermarket shopping is a special kind of hell even before the current state of things. But if your going to crawl around town, either doing so on electric or a hybrid seems somewhat more sensible.
Theres a lot of money to be made out of flogging new cars to people, which has clearly been the priority of the motor industry for many years, worse now by the addition of PCP type deals. Anything to demonise older vehicles in any way they can, only feeds this pattern further.
Batteries will get to a point where they will hit a severe problem - either disposal of them, or lack of materials to make new ones from being the likely causes that appear at this point, though who knows what else might become more apparant with time.
Hydrogen can also be used in a fuel cell setup, but try mentioning that to any of Musk's followers as its clearly got more potential than batteries once they crack how to make the hydrogen without producing emissions elsewhere that cancel out the benefits of it. Which has got to be a better bet than combing the seabed in search of Cobalt for batteries.