The worst thing to do with it is try using it to fix a leaky water pump. Not p38s, but I've seen one seize solid and snap the pulley off it on a bmw after a neighbour of mine used it. Did stop the leak for a while. And I've seen a td5 with overpressurising coolant on a disco 2 where it seemed several bottles of it had been used to try and cover up various leaks, including water pump, head gasket and the oil cooler o rings. Wasn't obvious the pump was leaking until pressure was behind it. Radiator was noticeably blocked up with the stuff too. No way it was only a single bottle in there either.
I've seen someone do the same with contact cleaner and an angle grinder. I think the motor would be preferable out of the two
you need to upload it somewhere else (onedrive, imgur or similar works) then get a link to it from the site you uploaded it to, then on here click the 5th button in the reply pane (image) and paste the link into the box that comes up afterwards. Leave all the text it adds and you should have a pic shown then when you post the reply.
This thread > https://rangerovers.pub/topic/1751-widescreen-navigation-install shows MartyUK's latest install
https://www.nanocom-diagnostics.com/downloads/preview/firmware-upgrade-guide
section 5 gives details on the jumper (last page)
It forces it into kernel mode - more info here about it
https://www.nanocom-diagnostics.com/downloads/preview/firmware-upgrade-guide
Theres a jumper inside one end of the nano thats detailed in some of the troubleshooting steps for the nano. You don't need to pull it to pieces, you just remove an end of it to access the jumper.
The Disco 2 also shows 1.7 KPH on all sensors when sat with engine not running in Park. My Nano is using firmware from 2018 at the minute, as I've not got round to updating it. Need to do that as the last time I tried it on my mates p38 HEVAC it didn't seem to want to play ball, came up with numerous errors and scrolling between errors caused the screen to lockup and reload around 10 times on each error.
I have some feeling I found the same on the Disco with the Nanocom of it showing a low speed when sat stationary. Will have a look tomorrow at it. I think its known about the ECU dropping the comms if you start moving, suspect it might even be mentioned in RAVE that it will drop connection with testbook so its not a fault just the way the ecu is.
Your first mistake is reading the Express. Any webpage with that horrific formatting doesn't deserve to be looked at.
Note that a lot of that relates to carb vehicles as well which obviously can go out of tune and need adjustment, you have fuel injection which will adjust itself anyway so running lean shouldn't be an issue as long as its working properly anyway.
JUKE179r wrote:
Look up Saab nipple bushing 9mm ID #55557389 or #9179318. I had to replace mine a month ago. The Saab part is way cheaper than LR and it has the same dimensions. I punched it out from inside of the manifold with a 3/8” drive long extension and a 3/8” to 1/4” adapter at the tip.
Much obliged, have made a note of that for future use as its bound to go missing again. Looks like I've cured one oil leak (valley gasket) to discover another one now (rear crankshaft seal).
Harv wrote:
Brian did you find a part number? Mine broke when I removed the plenum. It's on with RTV for now.
Afraid not. I was lucky around a month later found it stuck on top of the chassis rail thanks to the muck all over it from various oil leaks. How it managed to stay there that long is beyond me. Mine was wedged in with ptfe tape in the meantime
UK Spec Disco 2 here, and Rave confirms its for the brake servo there on the Disco (I could have walked out to it to check, but was easier to check Rave). Mine has it, I know that from losing the red clip previously and having issues locating a replacement as its not on the parts list.
Afaik if the airbag system detects a fault in most cases, it will not deploy any of them. Not sure if that's true of the p38 specifically, but certainly what's said about other vehicles.
That should be fine for testing.
Disco here too, but did that same gasket and seals job 2 weeks ago, used bearmach seals and gasket they seemed to fit well. The old seals had gone crispy on removal and had left bits of the same bit you have the issue with on your pic stuck in place.
I'd try seeing if the one you have will move first. If it won't come undone or snaps off when you try it, it may be easier to use one that fits into the coolant pipe instead. Ideally you want one with the same electrical spec as you have currently else you need to use the software to specify the right one.
I'd also suggest shorting it so you can test the rest of it before you place an order. Then if anything else is needed you can add it to the same order.
Bear in mind a broken wire feeding either coil will cause the same issue as a broken coil. Given it doesn't try to switch (rather than switch and throw an error) I'd suggest you look for the temp sensor mentioned before and test that. Or consider getting a lead and connect up a laptop if that's possible, that will show you what's going on with the various sensors etc and should make the fault obvious.
I put some Terrafirma shocks on the back of the Disco, and one of them managed all of 7000 miles and started showing signs of leaking. Standard ones on there though. I found the ride on them to be a bit too firm if anything, though maybe different when on air rather than coils of course.
The seized brush is probably most of your weak problem though. Provided they have enough pressure left in the spring to hold on the contact ring those should still work, though cleaning all the loose dust out is obviously helpful