The really old stuff on LPGforum (alot of which is probably irrelevant now) isn't generally accessible - Mods can see the archive section, but not normal users (I think). Thats due to software though, as the whole archive section has broken formatting, making it very difficult to actually read most of the content as its mixed up with various codes <br> appears alot in it. Its usually a problem going major version upgrades (ie letting lots of upgrades get missed then trying to jump several versions at once)

gordonjcp wrote:

tanis8472 wrote:

My pc is full HD. There's about 6 lines of topics. Should be about 20 on one screen.

How does rrrpub look on it? I'm mostly looking at it on 1366x768 or 1600x1200 but I should try more sizes.

If you wanted to improve anything, if its possible to put the link back to the sections at the bottom of the page as well as the top, it would be helpful (so you can go back to the section you've just read a post from for the next post etc)

Its looks fine in a window at 1920X1080 here. But fullscreen browser window gives large white space either side.

I've used those type of things (the Irwin branded ones in my case) to remove rounded off nuts (and sump plugs!). They do work, provided you can get them to bite well enough. They have a tapered sprial thread up the inside that cuts into the side of the thing your hammering it onto.

We have used them to remove the remains of a snapped wheel bolt on a Merc (locking wheel nut that snapped when trying to undo it) as well.

On a different note though, Does that mean you could drive one with L-Plates with a passenger in the front seat with a B+E license? I would suspect so, though don't know what other restrictions that might mean you end up with in that situation?

RutlandRover wrote:

£495 here with a £250 refund if you pass first time!

http://jcoates.co.uk/training/category-b-e/

They have a few locations dotted around the country.

Have a look at the calculator on that website - the £495 is just the test reattempts.

You have opted for the following:
LGV Category B+E

You require the following course components:

Category B+E Course Learn to drive a car with a trailer. 3 days of practical training. Requires Category B licence. £722.20
Total £722.20

Would you be interested in the following?

Two additional test attempts at a discounted rate. You will get training and test fees for two extra attempts and if you pass first time you will get a £250.00 refund. (Pass Protection)   £495.00

I will say though, there explanation of what you can and can't do makes a lot more sense and for easier reading than the DVLA's wording does.

Can't remember why we had the pulley off mine (think we were chasing an oil leak that turned out to be the previous owner not doing the oil pressure switch up tightly enough - as in it was finger loose), but I can remember my mate making a tool to fit it. I brought a spare pulley off eBay for that purpose as it was the easiest way to make something to fit it without having the pulley on the bench off to make it (as if we could take it off, the tool wouldn't have been needed)

Its not the prettiest of things, but it did work. If i get chance at the weekend might be able to take some photos of it with measurements if your still stuck.

I think hes Henry's brother thats being referred to?
https://www.numatic.co.uk/product-view.aspx?id=28&r=4&sr=1

Is George just a wet vac, or does it have a carpet cleaner head as well? As said, I've had it over a windscreen from a leaking heater matrix and its difficult to get it completely gone from glass, so can imagine carpet is much more of a pain

dave3d wrote:

One of the Disco models ... is it the Disco 2? excuse my ignorance, has coils at the front and air springs at the back does it not?
I know that this particular combination has a high incidence for caravans turning over according to the caravan club. Inherently unstable imho.

The only towing I do recently is with my caravan which is quite heavy at around 2 tonnes laden (correction ... I am actually doing zero towing right now as the rear diff has gone).
I have Arnott Gen III air bags fitted and at std height the spring rate is a bit harder than Dunlops. However the stabilty when towing was improved markedly when I swapped the std Boge dampers for Terrafirma dampers (the stiffer off road +2" version). I didn't buy them for that but the difference was huge. Far less bouncing around and a lot more controlled.

Its the Disco 2 Models with the 2 seats in the boot only. Though knowing what mine is like on coils, I can only imagine air would be an improvement, at least if nothing else it should sit level then.

I've had problems with a Focus overheating under accleration, a bottle of Holts speedflush sorted that, and the few solid bits that came out sure looked like limescale, though there wasn't much of them (its designed to dissolve that sort of stuff) it made enough of a difference to keep the temp gauge happy.

It depends on your driving license - If you goto this address below and looking your actual driving license
https://www.gov.uk/view-driving-licence

Assuming your towing with a Range Rover expand category B - This is what mine says

Description
You can drive vehicles up to 3,500kg Maximum Authorised Mass (MAM) and up to 8 passenger seats, and a driver, with trailer up to 750kg; trailers over 750kg if combined weight of vehicle and trailer isn’t over 3,500kg and the fully-loaded trailer doesn’t weigh more than the unladen vehicle

I would need Category BE - which I have provisional entitlement only for, which you will find on the same page as above. If you have BE in your Vehicles you can drive section then you should be fine. If you passed your car test before 1999 then you should have that on there?

Catogory BE
Description
You can drive category B vehicles with trailer when combined weight of vehicle and trailer is over 3,500kg

You need to stick within the limits for the vehicle in question - Richard is bound to reply to this if hes not halfway across France at the minute with details on that, but my understanding is that 3.5 tonnes on the back of most Land Rovers is fine (at least ones with a chassis - not sure once you move into stuff newer than the p38 or Disco 2). Otherwise your looking at the various weights involved, I think the drivers manual covers this if you have it with a reasonable explanation, or you might be able to find it from Rave if you don't have the printed one that would have come with the car - there is a electronic copy of it in there as I've seen it, but not exactly sure where it is located without looking)

Alot of the time the problems are around that - the extra bits added on cause more problems, EGR specifically I've known to be problematic, and although you shouldn't do it, I can see why a lot of the time its simpler to blank it off than trying to get it to work properly (and even if you do fix it, its only a matter of time unless you can address the problem for it clogging up in the first place, which is usually that its been sold to someone who it isn't suitable for and hence only goes round town, never getting chance to clear itself out properly)

I've not got good words to say about RAC either - it takes them forever to get to you is what I've found, they tell you what they think you want to hear rather than an actual realistic time. Not just me thats found this, My neighbour had a Golf that emptied his brake fluid over the road about 20 miles away from home, 2 hours later and they still hadn't turned up to do anything.

Someone else I know (who at the time was towing a trailer almost certainly beyond what his Suzuki Vitara could actually manage) got stuck halfway up the field next the house he was in the process of buying at 10pm - Seized the clutch together so it wouldn't release and you could smell burning clutch in the air. Was pitch black by this point, so we unloaded the van I'd driven up there whilst waiting for it to cool down, that didn't help much, so he called up Suzuki assist, who in turn sent the AA out to him. Considering we were in the middle of a field at the time I'd expected to be there hours as we weren't a hazard or anything, It took them 20 minutes to show up!

They already make them in 1m lengths? They are £21.25

https://www.nanocom-diagnostics.com/shop/product/ncom25
https://www.nanocom-diagnostics.com/shop/product/ncom26

Or quite a bit cheaper @ £3.80
https://www.amazon.co.uk/SODIAL-OBD-II-Extension-Diagnostic-Extender/dp/B00J2N0VG4/ref=asc_df_B00J2N0VG4/

I've seen people advising using wd40 to "fix" it - which apparently works until it gets washed off or dries out too much (so doesn't really work at all).

Mazz1 wrote:

The ongoing issue is the response from the engine which is struggling to accelerate/ pick up speed

This sounds very much to me like what i found with a dodgy XYZ switch (this was on a Disco at the time so brought on the M+S lights on the dash), the basic problem was it not detecting the gear position properly, throwing it into limp mode as a result, so you'd be trying to pull away in 3rd gear rather than first. So another pair of questions - are you getting any errors or lights on the dash that wouldn't normally be there, and is it an auto or manual?

Does it do this consistently, or sometimes and other times its OK? (particularly if you stop the engine and start again?)

Provided you can get it to stick either of those should work - reapplication regularly would obviously help keep it under control. I've not had much luck with the Tetraseal stuff, tend to find it peels off later (might be a sign that the chassis is a bit too oily for it to stick well though rather than any failing of the product).

Lpgc wrote:

Thanks for all the tips.

Will definitely be sanding lights with finer stuff, didn't know about using soap. ...I'll look into the Tcut kits but I wonder if the coarser Tcut is just the equivalent of coarser paint cutting compound? I've got Farecla cutting compound somewhere.
Maybe I'll get the machine polisher on them, will get a new polishing head for it. Would've been easier before I put the lights back on!
I don;t expect the lights to look new when done but they already look much better than they did, reckon I'll get them looking better still with a bit more effort.

Looking like paint or tape for the pipes, most likely paint, most likely Hammerite lol. But Morat set me wondering if there isn't a better aluminium paint. I wouldn't spend a lot on special paint though, pipes I fitted look like new and should be good for quite a few years even if I don't treat them. Covering them with an outer pipe would be a none starter as the sections that corrode are short and have many bends..

While on the subject of cleaning plastic lights... Not that I have any need for this at the moment but has anyone ever tried similar with glass headlights or even windscreens? Not yellowed in the case of windscreens but the tiny marks and scratches they get over the years.. I've wondered if they could be sanded and polished, how much of a ballache would that be lol...

@BrianH I posted your insurance cert last night mate.

Cheers Simon.

Lpgc wrote:

I thought they used enamel on series Landrovers?

'Tis looking like it'll get Hammerited lol.

Waiting for a customer picking his car up I just converted, I've been wet n dry sanding my yellowed headlights. Got rid of the yellow and they now look great when wet but are hazy due to the sanding when dry. The finest paper I have here at the moment is 1200 grit, I intend on getting some finer stuff which no doubt will get rid of the haze... But I wonder if Tcut would work just as well and be less effort or if Tcut would make the plastic lenses yellow again? I've got a large machine polisher somewhere but it'd be too big to miss the surrounding paintwork and (much worse) the rubber around the headlights.

Will have to wait for now though, I've got another car coming to be converted in the morning, another on Sunday (being left all week) and the Bentley GT Continental on Monday (if he doesn't put it off due to health problems again).

There are other paints available now (would suspect some of the original paints no longer allowed due to their makeup). I think the one of the two that was sucessful was some sort of enamel, not sure what the other one used. I've been putting off dealing with plastic headlight lenses in the same state as well, I got as far as buying the kit to do it, but no further yet.

The key from the couple of bits of paintwork I've seen on Aluminium (Know a couple of people with series Land Rovers) is getting the right primer and paint, One of them has repainted his replacement roof with success, the other has repainted the whole body a few years ago, and now the top coat is peeling off the primer. I believe he used the wrong primer to match the Aluminium panels hence why hes now having problems (the exposed primer seems rather too smooth to me to be doing its job, and the top coat literally peels off like old wallpaper - you can get hold of any of the loose edges and it will just peel away to the first edge it meets).

Thats brushed on paint, which is what I'd guess you'd probably be using.

Think personally your first port of call is to stop the crap managing to stick onto it - Does it have any sort of outer layer on it (foam or similar?) Or any way mud can end up resting ontop of it?