I've seen water come out of them on the TD5 disco that a friend of my mate was working on when he greased them, We suspect the servicing on that has been minimal for some time, so its definitely worth doing to keep them working for longer. As you say, not a car its designed to be able to run through water etc!

The oe one on LRdirect does say its supplied by Britpart, though that may not mean anything much.

I've generally found no issues with the Bearmach parts, they fit and work but don't think I replaced the seal when we last had it apart so can't say if those are any better.

Microcat seems to suggest the rears are different, two numbers are shown, FTC2803 (-(A)51S36868A) superceeded to FTC5209 after that. But it also describes them as being for the front/rear hubs. But lists a different seal for the front driveshafts which matches the numbers you have above.

Theres a bit more to it than that - they actually charge others to use it if they aren't a bt customer, try logging into the wifi network you will see it prompts to enter account or payment details.

On the face of it, it seems to be a good deal until you try using it - most places it works so poorly you just wouldn't bother if you had any other option.

But yes, it should be made clearer when you set it up, and probably shouldn't be on by default.

Actually I find similar on LPGForum, though on there its very random - sometimes they will reset, other times not. Firefox again on Windows 10 64 bit.

Have you had a look under the header tank itself? Since thats in that area, wonder if you have a crack on it?. Can't see you mentioning having looked at it as yet.

At least leaking that much you should be able to locate it now.

I've got the Bearmach ones on the Disco, and they have been fine so far, been on there about 6 months.

What browser are you using?

If you do still think there is a leak, your best bet for locating it is to pressure test the coolant system - around 15psi usually shows anything that only leaks when its under pressure and hot. I've known a water pump on a td5 to not show any sign of leakage without pressure in the system, but leak like a seive once a little pressure was applied.

RutlandRover I think modded a standard pressure cap with a schrader valve to do this and posted about it on here.

I'd guess you'd have to get creative in some way to make the sensor do anything useful - Easiest bet that comes to mind for me is to get a small buzzer you could hide in the dash if you wanted to keep it looking original but keep some sort of warning.

MarkTr wrote:

OK-- I went through the Atlantic British process which I knew may be wrong-- but things went strange fast. I got about two and a half quarts in the pan statically. Started up the truck and let heat up a bit then went through the gears and then kept it running. Went under the truck and started pumping in fluid- got about three more quarts in and it started to drip past the tube in the hole and I thought fine-- soon as I pulled the tube out to check how quick it was really dripping without the tube in the hole-- it pucked out two quarts of fluid. I am letting the truck cool down and will start over.

I think I proved that AB method of doing it warm is the wrong way to go-- all of the fluid in the tranny must have heated up - expanded- then blew out of the fill hole. Great that a supplier would make video which is wrong.

Now I have to go out and buy more fluid since it went back into my drain pan which was empty but still had dirt bits in it. I did pour it back into my empty bottles using a fine mesh paint strainer- but not worth taking a chance.

I measured the amount of fluid I dropped out when I first pulled the pan--about four quarts.

To some degree it would depend how much was in there to start with, you won't get it all out of the torque convertor, but when I've had to do anything which involved changing the fluid, I would reckon to have at least the full capacity available as your guaranteed to lose some somewhere along the process.

Your best bet is probabbly to refill it as best you can to the right level, drive it around a bit to let it get all the system filled up again, then recheck it as per the described method.

It would be much easier if it had the dipstick like the GEMS ones do.

That should be both filters you require, you might want to check the pipe size on the 1-2 y one (typically they are 12mm now though others do exist). That filter comes either as a replacement paper element or a complete filter you just put your hoses onto. Its easier changing the whole thing unless its something odd.

I'd have a look at the vapouriser temp if you can, Also are you sure your thermostat actually works?

Gilbertd wrote:

Only the last one? I must have lost about 5 by leaving them on the bumper and forgetting to put them back on. I buy two at a time now so I've always got a spare.

Yes having to take the weight of the hose can be interesting. Standing there like a bloody scarecrow with one arm outstretched one way holding the hose and the other holding the button in on the pump.

I think i've lost 4 of the round ones due to the spring having enough force behind it to evenutally bend the plastic, plus lost a couple more by leaving them on the pump. I've got all the square ones now, which solves the spring problem, but not the forgetting to put it back on problem. I Should really make a tether for it! I've a few spare ones kicking about as you can use any of them to fit the square fillers anyway, just they look a bit silly.

Gilbertd wrote:

I'll get mine too then. I've got the cup and Acme adapters in my centre cubby but I think I've only used the Acme one once or twice. Nearly as good as ours unlike the cup filler where you have to support the weight of the hose to stop the seal leaking on half the pumps I've found.

That must be fun with a towbar filler if your by yourself.

Dave - for the price they are, I'd grab a 2nd one whilst your there (I've done the same, I tend to put the cap in my pocket now rather than leaving it ontop of the bumper as I used to do which is how I lost the last one!)

Lpgc wrote:

Hehe.. It is a load of bolx though the way they talk etc eh? Can imagine there was once a time when that sort of language was more the norm, in which case why hasn't the language moved with the times?

I was once done for having no insurance on my son's Corsa when I was teaching him to drive. Had just dropped my daughter off in his Corsa, I was driving with my son in front passenger seat. I didn't have my docs on me but told the copper I had a trade policy that also covered me to drive any vehicle tptf. The copper didn't believe my policy would cover me if I wasn't driving for business purposes so I got a letter, could either accept 6 points and a fine or go to court. I knew I was covered, checked my docs, replied to the letter saying I was covered and included a copy of the policy but they stuck to their guns... accept the points or argue the toss in court. I chose to go to court (Leeds magistrates), they kept me there all day before I went into the actual courtroom... and then I was suddenly discharged without trial. At that point I was disappointed not to have been tried, I was fired up and looking forward to it! But I think I know why I was discharged... I recognised the prosecution barrister, couldn't place him at first, then I remembered where I knew him from.. He was a customer who I'd converted a BMW740 for! Quite a coincidence. But there was another coincidence with the same bloke... Before I converted his BMW I once saw him launching his boat at Acaster Marine when I was launching my boat, we didn't speak at all on that occasion but I knew his face when he brought his BMW to me and then when I dropped his car off for him at his house I saw his boat outside.. He was launching his boat with his 740 the first time I saw him when we didn't speak. I have to wonder whether they discharged me without trial because they realised they were wrong (I showed a copper or a court clerk my docs), or because the prosecution barrister knew me, or because the prosecution barrister had allowed me to drive his car without checking my insurance situation lol...

In the few dealings i've had with anyone of that profession, they don't just talk like that, its like anything they do is conveyed by either carrier pigeon or messages in a bottle given how long it takes to get something simple sorted and how many letters it seems to require.

Gilbertd wrote:

It's the same with other cars. Friend's son was trying to get insurance of a 1.1 Fiesta and getting stupid quotes. He had nothing going for him, 18 year old student with a driving licence that the ink was still wet on. Found that while the Fiesta was going to cost a fortune, he could get insurance on my friend's old Peugeot 405 diesel for sensible money. It's all done on risk, number of 18 year old students driving a Fiesta that make a claim versus number of 18 year old students driving a Peugeot 405 diesel that make a claim makes him look like a good risk. It'll be just the same with the Volvo, How many young drivers in Volvos make a claim? Not very many I suspect so statistically it looks a better risk but in reality it's because very few young drivers drive Volvos.

Mind you, getting back to the original question, how many claims have been made by young drivers in diesel Range Rovers? Again not many I suspect.

No harm in putting the details of one into a comparison site to get an idea about it, worth checking both full license and provisional though.

Clive603 wrote:

Re Axle Stands

The four new 6 ton ratchet style, Wolf branded ones I bought cheaply off E-Bay (about £25 a pair) do a good job of putting a P38 up at an adequate working height when placed under the chassis. Model T46001, extension range from 16" to 25" nominal. Used two under the chassis at about half extension on my drive when using my monster high rise ramps for the initial lift. But thats working on one end at time. I got the rubber yoke caps from SGS to save paint damage. Bit of a stretch but they went on with suitable verbal encouragement. Cost nearly as much as one pair of stands tho' which seemed bit off. But the stands were cheap.

Two stands under the chassis, other two under the axle made a very solid support. Definitely not going anywhere un-planned. Which is the way I like things if my precious hide is going underneath two solid tons worth of vehicle!

Rutland Rover
Yup thats right. Only one end of the track rod is replaceable. Standard thread shaft on that one whilst the other is held in with radial (ring) stakes. I don't really see why the thread end is listed separately. Surely no one replaces just one end. I thought the Lemfoder track rod complete was a very acceptable price anyway.

Dinna fash yersel about the special bush compression thingy. Now I've got the dimensions sorted out I can probably make one in less time than it takes to find some material, swop the right boring tool into a QC holder and swivel the lathe topside over to the right angle!

The downside with the Lemforder ones is the nuts don't come with it, whereas they do with others (though not all of them use the same thread as the original ones either)

Gilbertd wrote:

It is a frequency thing, NAS fobs operate on 315 MHz compared with most of the rest of the world that uses 433 MHz (315 is in the middle of the military air band here). I suspect that while 433 MHz fobs are still available 315 MHz ones aren't.

I was hoping you'd post something along those lines, as that was what I was suspecting would be different, but you've also given the why its different explanation.

If you look at the NAS spec copy of RAVE, and compare it to the non-NAS one, there doesn't appear to be any mention of the EKA on the NAS spec owners handbook on the sections its mentioned in the non-NAS ones (the bit about entering it as far as I can see isn't even there, mentions of it being on the security card aren't present either).

I suspect (but don't know) that NAS fobs would use a different frequency, hence they might well not be available if they aren't being made anymore.

From speaking to mine, more drivers will mean more cost whichever way you try to do it. It also means as your a named driver rather than the policy holder typically, that you wouldn't have any of the other benefits if they offer them (driving other cars on TPO cover for example)

What happens with the lpg? If its completely dead I'd have a look where the switched live is being taken from (typically petrol injector positive). If that connection has gone bad, it might account for both problems. Equally I'd expect that to log a fault code though wouldn't like to rely on that without a look.