I'd suggest you might find an answer to the sound by greasing them if you haven't already done so if they have nipples on them, if that shuts them up, then you know which bit you might want to be looking at. If your still not sure, easiest way to tell for sure is to remove the whole thing (or at least one end of it) and see where you have movement. Wouldn't be a bad idea if your going to do that to get hold of some UJ's anyway though. Alternatively I was told lift all wheels off the ground, handbrake off and rotate both propshafts like that (Suspect in neutral was also part of it, can't remember though, and slightly different on a D2 anyway as its a separate control, plus it has the centering front bearing which I don't think is on the p38 to add complication)

The clunking you mention, is it particularly noticeable when you change direction (like parking for example, does it thump when you go to pull away in the other direction having been parked for example). Mine felt like the handbrake was sticking on if that gives you an idea of what it might feel like and had the same cheep cheep cheep sound when driving along with any throttle at all.

The few times I've had it done, the PAG oil gets put in by the machine, the better places will put the dye in at the same time as its already mixed with the oil. You might want some though to help when your assembling the pipework (allows the o-rings to slide a bit easier)

The key to getting those off (had the same problem on my Disco 2 with the same nuts) is to remove the cover bit by whatever method you can, once its off, you can get it off with a socket (or just continue using it like that if it doesn't bother you, though the socket doesn't fit as well as it should do if thats the case). I think if i remember correctly drilling a hole in the middle of a couple of them so you had something to stick a screwdriver into was needed. Or you might get a 12 point socket over them well enough to undo them alternatively.
I brought a replacement set for mine as it was cheap enough, but found that the covers on a few of them fell off over time so your classic option might be better as the quality is hopefully better on them.

That does sound like its one of the universal joints on the propshaft to me. Should be easy to check, when mine went you had a fair bit of play in the shaft (lift the front wheels up, and see how far you can rotate the propshaft on the joints). Also had it only happening on accleration or at least with the throttle held down slightly, would stop as soon as I lifted off the gas.

Does sound like one of the Universal joints on the propshaft to me, I had one fail and that would squeak and squeal at times, Also caused a thump as drive was taken up (which I'd thought was the handbrake sticking at first, that was only really noticable when changing direction of travel - Parking mainly going from reversing to park and stop, then drive to pull away later)

I've had 5 LPG cars over several years with Admiral, 2 they haven't asked for anything on, 1 they asked for database registration for and put it on with that with nothing further, 1 on the first call wanted a uklpg registration (a problem as the car didn't have one at the time though did have a certificate for it but it turned out not one that would give a database registration) but just put it straight on when phoned for the second time, and the other one the first phone call to try and sort it (when it had a database registration) got answered by a clueless idiot who clearly didn't understand what he was even asking for as he just kept asking for documents but couldn't even tell me which documents he wanted (I had the database registration, and the tank cert but he didn't seem to know at all what was needed).

I've tried asking them for a straight answer as to what they want, but never succeeded in getting one.

Admiral appear to be fairly consistent. They can be a PITA about lpg, it's usually fine if you get someone who actually knows what they are talking about though.

dave3d wrote:

Gordon, I didn't get your email.

Anyway, I have made a start. I just uploaded about 350Mb onto the Microsoft onedrive link that RutlandRover posted.
I will do an iso of Microcat 2002 and 2009 and upload that next. Do you just want p38 stuff? I have got Defender and Disco technical docs as well.

I thought the plan was to have it on your server rather than in the cloud somewhere.

Another thing to consider ... should downloads be restricted to members of the forum only? so we know who they are, rather than guests or the general public who don't log in? I personally think it should be restricted.

Just guessing here, but I would have read the reply to mean stick it on Google Drive, Gordon will download it from there and put it onto his server?

Lpgc wrote:

Potential inconvenience with the filler fitted so close to the towball if you do a lot of towing though?

Can be a good idea to fit the bayonet so bayonet lugs are top and bottom (at 90 degrees to normal) if the filler is fitted at the back - the fill pipe from the gun then points sideways toward the pump which gives a bit more slack on the pipe and prevents the retractable type pulling sideways on the filler. Not supposed to fit them at 90 degrees but can make sense to.

Definitely right there - It only matters when the hose is short, but it does help to stop it undoing itself when you need it.

Lpgc wrote:

Anyone had one nicked? You can buy locking versions hehe!

You then add possible problems of losing the key or the lock jamming! though the locking one I tried lasted the longest. Best one I had came with one of the spare necam systems i brought, that lasted ages till I left it onto of the pump.

Aragorn wrote:

well i've gone full retard...

fitted the shite one, drove to asda yesterday to fill up the LPG, and drove off without refitting that one either. What a fucking muppet!

I will order a good Autogas branded one from one of the stores, and i guess see about fitting a tether or something!

The chat about the square fillers is interesting. My current ones in the bumper, and the bumpers fecked and needs replaced, so theres a possibility to swap it out. I was considering some sort of bracket on the tow hitch where i could fit the filler? I guess i need to investigate swapping it out for a different one when i do the bumper.

The typical way to anchor them onto the towbar (which is the case with the ones I've got, though none of them are a p38) is to use one of the kits like this https://tinleytech.co.uk/shop/lpg-parts/uk-bayonet-filler-90-complete-square-cover/ , and drill two holes for the towbar retaining bolts to go though into the plate. If the Towbar is like the one fitted to the Disco 2 (Which I don't know if it is or isn't the case) then it needs a longer plate than the one supplied in that sort of kit (mine was made out of a spare bit of metal using the plate as a template, but its easy enough to make one without the plate anyway, if your current one will undo from whereever its in place then you would just need the two bits of the plastic cap).

Having lost the cap off mine I tend to put it in my pocket when filling now, as leaving it on top of the bumper is a surefire way to forget it. A tether would be better still, but one of those things I keep meaning to do, but never get round to it.

Other advantage of putting it in the middle is you can fill from either side which is handy, though can be a pain if the hose is particularly short.

Avoid the All ride caps (blue and black packet) those are the first ones I brought to replace the already missing one on the first LPG car I had and are utterly useless.

RutlandRover wrote:

Ah, I don't have any of that.

I'm guessing Vaseline would be bad then?

Probably yes, using the pag oil should be fine, as you know the seals are designed to withstand being exposed to it and it won't do any harm inside the ac system either. Couldn't remember what it was called else I'd have said above.

Ideally the same oil that goes in the ac system

You will find they eventually eject themselves off the car. I'm sure that's why the come in pairs. Exactly same problem spring is too strong and bends the retaining lugs. I've gone off that type of filler housing and use the square ones for that reason now, though not an option if it's on bodywork

``````Sloth wrote:

The trouble is with places charging a flat rate of say £50/fill regardless of car, is that most cars take 6-700g... then we rock up with a P38 needing 1200-1380g. Suddenly they're barely making any money taking cost of gas and their time into account. At the same time... that's not my problem.

The DIY refill things I'm not a massive fan of because in the UK, they can't legally contain actual refrigerant anymore. So long as the pressure on the low side doesn't end up massively high, it should be okay. But it can't beat weighing it in. Equally.. if the system is empty and has air in it, you're filling a system with an unknown 'refrigerant' as well as the air, which will have moisture in it and emulsify the oil... all ending in a mess. Pressures probably all over the place too. Then you have those with 'stop leak' additives in, which I've seen quite a lot of stories of TXVs being blocked up as a result, needing evaporators pulling out to replace etc.

I'm not sure on the R12 idea - I believe propane is mostly compatible in properties with R22, and R290 is basically just propane with a very low moisture content. Just has the slight downside of the old flammability issue... although the new R1234YF is too, so I guess car manufacturers aren't that bothered. I know a lot of us drive around with LPG plumbed up all over the place, but to me you're much more likely to end up with a big leak on a condenser when a nice pointy stone hits it or you have a collision with something in front....

I think the other potential concern is if you ended up with a leak where it leaked into the cabin area - possible given the evaporator is linked to that area by its job. Also I've seen the results of a compressor left open to the air (granted it was for an extended period due to a hole in the pipework) and can confirm it will knacker them completely. If the photos below work you will see what I mean.

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Easiest way to find a non-obvious leak is to put some pressure into the coolant system - either via a proper kit designed to fit the pressure cap, or with a modified cap and a low pressure pump. Someone else on here managed to modify a cap and use a bike tyre pump (I think) to find their leak. You don't want a lot of pressure on it, around 15psi should be enough.

I'd suspect from what you've said, that your vapouriser is leaking gas into the coolant and overpressuring it. First test to try and isolate it is to run it on petrol and see if it stops, if so then at least you know what your looking at.

I've known some types of hoses to distort when exposed to LPG that wouldn't normally be expected to cope with it (coolant ones and vacuum ones) - they tend to balloon up if left like it which looks very much like your second photo to me.

It will probably do it at its worst when the engine is stopped, as there is a more constant pressure there then - its got nowhere else to go at that point, but will stop leaking once the pressure has dropped far enough, so doesn't usually lose much.

If it is that, you might be able to get away with a rebuild kit on whatever vapouriser you have, or it might need another one - depends whats wrong with it.

Given what you've said above about it blowing the pipe off the filter, It does sound like a wires come disconnected. When you say you swapped everything is that including the loom, or just the modular bits? Also is the lpg still trying to switch over? If so, it could equally be the lpg side flooding manifold with gas (either by a stuck or leaking injector, or the vacuum connection to the vapouriser, if it is that, then pulling the lpg fuse should help to stop it happening, or switching it back to petrol only).

When you say it stinks of fuel on startup does it seem to be petrol or gas?

Sounds somewhat like the fuel purge error might be the cause to me of the starting problems - If it refers to the Evap system then is it possible your getting far too much vapour flooding the manifold when its left (far as i know it should be closed in that state and only allow purging when its running, but maybe its not doing that correctly?).

Would suggest easiest way to rule that out would be to find the vacuum line that runs to the manifold and disconnect it, plug the end of it and see if that allows it to start any better the following day (Plug both the hole that it connects to somehow and the free end of the pipe).

LPG wise it would probably help to know what the LPG ecu is actually doing or complaining about as a starting point, any idea which system it is?

For reference - I was on my phone earlier so couldn't easily paste a link
https://tinleytech.co.uk/shop/lpg-parts/hand-pump-for-lpg-mk-1/

Hand Pump for LPG (Mk 1)
£165.75 (Excluding VAT at 20%)

It only connects to hose tails as well, so you'd have to alter the pluming temporally as well (outlet from the donor tank, to the filler on the receiving tank).