It depends on the bottle and the station - If its what we know here as a Calor bottle (one you pay a deposit for with a basic valve with no shut off) then no your not supposed to fill them. If its a safefill or similar bottle (where you buy the bottle outright and it does have a fill limiter inside the bottle) then you are able to refill it. If the filling station lets you fill it can be another matter entirely though. You can also have a LPG tank fitted to the vehicle in the usual fashion with a valve to supply vapour rather than liquid (pickup pipe is at the top of the tank rather than bottom) there shouldn't be any reason for a problem with that.

Its bound to be cheaper filling from the pump, as the cylinder suppliers (at least in this country) can be overpriced - Example of this we use 19kg cylinders of propane for a space heater. Prices below are for a refill beginning of Feb this year collecting from store/depot (so you'd already have a cylinder)
One from Calor just for the refill is £48.42 but I can get those easily within a mile of home
One from Flogas depot in Coventry last time i was there was £33
One from Birmingham Autogas was £17 - With the £30 deposit on the bottle, still cheaper than a refill from Calor. And I try to fill up there whenever I'm up that way, as they are a few pence cheaper than the local garages here that do autogas.

If you add those up (approx 38 litres for 19KG) the price they are charging is the equivalent of £1.27 a litre from Calor, 86p From Flogas 45p from Birmingham Autogas (they were selling Autogas for 54p a litre at the time,so bottle in their case is actually cheaper)

Richard (Gillbertd) has posted about repairing them in the past, I think he was sending back to Alpine but did mention parts becoming an issue.

The fuel type on the logbook is a very unreliable indicator, I know of a p38 that belongs to my mates boss that says its a 4.6 diesel. Its actually a 4.6 petrol/gas, but certainly not Diesel.

Even the factory fit i had only showed petrol, I've only had 1 out of 4 vehicles on gas that have actually shown Gas on the logbook.

Theres no real harm in actually getting the petrol injectors to work when its started from cold - It does tend to stop them playing up from lack of use at least. You should be able to get away with a fairly low switchover temp - 30c is usually enough for it to be off cold start, and provided you have a decent flow through the vapouriser at that point it won't freeze up.

Range is really limited by the amount of space your willing to give up - At least you have the wheel well on a p38 to use, but additional tanks can be fitted if you desire/require them, though you'd be looking at either underslung tanks, or replacing the petrol tank with a smaller one and using the space you free up to add tanks (not a cheap option!).

BP wise - some of the stations they supplied (the BP connect ones mainly) ceased to have a supply when BP stopped supplying LPG about 2-3 years ago due to low sales (because they overpriced it like everything else they do). The local one at Linford wood here when it changed ownership got the lpg back again on the same pump, now supplied by Flogas (with 15p a litre price drop at the same time). The other BP station that did it took the pump out, but they seem mostly to be geared towards people buying overpriced M&S branded food and expensively priced coffee to go.

www.Filllpg.co.uk will show pretty much all the stations in the country - elsewhere is slightly more patchy as its updated by users, but you can add stations to improve that if you know of or find any that are missing.

It is a tenner cheaper than ECP are doing, and their ones don't come with the plug either.

Best bet (generally with any eBay parts) is to send a message either with the order or before you order it giving the vehicle details. Given its specified as Bosch you should be ok, I'd only go with them or NTK having experienced cheap ones previously.

no10chris wrote:

<<< admits this is all over my head, haven’t looked into how people can be affected by it, I just do as I mentioned, I don’t think we will ever be free from our lives having intrusions that we don’t want.
Jeez, even my cars been intruded on by some one with a wireless item, battery dead after 2 days non use. ( new battery )
Asked all the neighbours if any new toys for Christmas..they all say no 🙁

Think Richard had a problem with a wireless thermostat when he moved, so might not be the kind of toy they would even think about?

First thing to do is find what the reading was, disconnect the sensor and see if it changes, inspect the wiring and if your happy it looks ok you can then either replace the sensor, or swap from the other bank.

If its showing a voltage when disconnected I'd suspect you have some sort of wiring issue which might have killed the sensor - I've had that happen on an older lpg ecu where it was putting out voltage on the lambda sensor wire (if Simon installed your system thats probably not been connected as it doesn't do anything really useful and can cause problems if it goes wrong as well).

I would guess the sms app would be Whatsapp most likely, either that, or he may have been using an app like the three intouch or the other ones that existed before wifi calling became more standard. doesn't really matter what he was using at any rate.

All I can see on the map BT provide is a vague heat map - which only shows lots/quite a few/not so many. Not a specific location even, its a vague area of the street or even just the whole street in the case of a small road). Is there some map your using other than the one at http://www.btwifi.com/find/ ? I don't have BT anymore as I felt it was far too expensive for the service provided (I don't want BT sport channels, nor do i want to pay for them, let alone line rental for a phone that I didn't really use, I now have my mobile and broadband bill coming to less than the BT broadband bill with the line rental alone was, yes I lost access to the FON service, but frankly it wasn't something I felt worked well enough to warrant paying for at the time anyway).

I still don't understand why if you don't like the way they operate that you continue to fund their services - you can continue to inform people if thats what you desire to do, but hitting them in the pocket (and encourging other people offended by the info your giving to do the same) is more likely to influence them than ranting at them in the current fashion but continuing to pay them.

I'd check the lambda output - given the heat, its possible its melted the wiring somewhere underneath and may be that the signal wire is shorted out somewhere (seeing the output should give an idea if the lambda has gone bad, you can always swap the sensors over if you wanted to confirm before spending money on a new one, provided the old one will come out of course from the other side).

Its also possible its a blocked cat is the other thought that now comes to mind, as that would only effect one bank. But if its OK on petrol then you should have ruled that out and it seems you have.

TPS shouldn't affect only one bank either.

You can trace the ht leads and should find they go two from each coil pack to each bank, the other two going from the one further away. It might be an idea to check thats what is actually the case just incase it was put back wrong when it was apart. Though I'd expect it to run badly at best like that so wouldn't expect it to be wrong. There are some diagrams about of the connections if you can't find one then say!

The cylinders aren't paired that way - thats a bank, only thing common to a bank that comes to mind is the lambda sensor. Its possible either the sensor has died, or some sort of wiring issue is present, First thing I'd suggest there is to keep it on petrol, clear the faults, see what the lamdba sensor readout is showing on petrol (should be an alternating wave your seeing) and go from there. If it looks ok on petrol at that, try the same thing on gas and see what you get then, if the lambda sensor output looks wrong under gas only its probabbly some sort of gas problem (which would possibly only effect one bank as they generally are treated independently.)

That can be a sign of a coil pack starting to fail or another ignition issue rather than LPG directly. Easiest bet since its a Thor is look for misfire codes and see what cylinders are coming up with anything (might take some more running like that to get it to flag a misfire).
Single cylinder is likely a plug or lead, pairs more likely coil pack or the wiring leading to them. But at least if you know which cylinders your looking at thats a start before you spend any money on it.

So it would still seem the best option would be use a different isp if you dont like what they are doing? There are many others to choose from who offer alternatives.

Your reply above reinforces what's been said previously, it doesn't tie your name to any of the data given. Therefore not personal data. The location of a hotspot is not the same thing by any means.

Gilbertd wrote:

My SE has become a breaker and once I've swapped a few more bits off it, it will be going. The Ascot is all sorted and fully usable as long as I keep an eye on the coolant level, at least 3 core plugs are leaking including the two at the front hidden by the engine mounts so I need to support the engine on a crane to change them, not simple. Once that is done it will be going up for sale. The ex-plod will be kept forever but after the other two have gone, I'd consider another.......

Was it just the windscreen that made to decide to break the SE or other stuff as well?

Given how much is covered, its very hard to say. Personally I think I'd be trying to clean it up and see where it starts from before trying to fix it at this point. You might also find its easier to locate if you remove the fan when you have cleaned it if your able to (As the fan will blow the leaked fluid all over the place making it harder to trace - obviously don't run it for too long or drive it like that). If it is steering fluid (the dropped level in the reservoir would suggest it will be) then moving the steering about with the engine running should give you an idea where its coming from - ideally get someone else to move the steering while you look at whats going on.

Is it possible its actually the transmission oil cooler leaking and getting blown onto the bits behind? I'd expect you'd see oily gunge over the radiator fins if so?

If its only one bank, it shouldn't be a reason to suspect the MAF really. And yes, the copies are useless, the one that came on mine was causing problems until I replaced it with the genuine Bosch one.

Morat wrote:

That's a funky looking thing but is it much better than a 3/8th socket and an extension? £11 is a lot of brass in Yorkshire 😀

You may be alright on the P38 - Some of the bits are shared with the Disco 2, but not all. It did help on that (though I'm sure I paid around a fiver for it when i looked, couldn't find any even near that this time). A suitable socket and extension bar would probably work as well, Just i don't have many good imperial sockets (have brought as required so a few more now, but most of mine are metric)

You shouldn't need the bolts, but not a bad idea to have them anyway (they didn't seem to suffer with rust at least on mine, unlike the rest of it)

I think you will need a spanner or two - Its constricted space wise.

Or better still one of these https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LAND-ROVER-NEW-PROPSHAFT-NUT-BOLT-TOOL-SOCKET-SPANNER-3-8-SQUARE-DRIVE/300945326600

Theres a variety of them if you look around, thats just the first one I saw. At least from memory of doing it, being imperial size and very close to the shaft, it wasn't easy to get a socket onto it. I think you need something to hold the other end of the bolt as well as they are only pushed through, they don't lock in any way.

Once its off, its just a case of using something to push it out - a vice and sockets I seem to remember we used (use the sockets to press the bit out of the joint with the pressure from the vice)

Its not particularly difficult to get the propshaft off providing you have tools to fit the bolts ok, and once its off you can work on replacing the joints without being under the car, so it shouldn't take you too long with any luck.

davew wrote:

Thanks for your response/research Morat but I would still maintain that, as my neighbour's privacy was clearly 'invaded'/'impinged upon' then both BT's Duty of Care and GDPR Principles had been infringed indirectly. The main point is that anyone signing up to "BTWifi-with-FON" after May last year may well have a Prima Facia case worth pursuing (although that is tricky as they/FON seem to have preempted all this and associated 'charges'):-

https://network.fon.com/
Ts&Cs
https://corp.fon.com/fon-application-sla/
Note, in particular their 'universal get-out clause':
“ FON shall use your current location through your mobile device only in order to show you the available hotspots near your location.
FON is not responsible for any Expenses relating to the connection to a FON or FON Partners powered by Fon WiFi Signal. “

Incidentally FON claim now to have 23M Hot Spots; They seem to have failed to mention though how many of these are OUR hubs.... !

Thanks to your questioning the validity of all this I will also ask the ICO about this specific issue too; Might also take a while though (!) Overall I tend to see the GDPR as 'a step in the right direction' but essentially something which will develop further over the years anyway, based on Governments (eventually) better understanding what is going on here with regards to what Personal Privacy and OPT IN really mean for Customers... and the situation (and legislation) will change to reflect that too.

EDIT; Just searched a bit further... (and I am now even less impressed !):-

https://corp.fon.com/privacy-policy-of-fon/

Looks like by signing up for FON you are thus authorising them for all kinds of liberties too !

A far simpler option is just not to use BT if you don't like it. That is about the only way of actually making any difference to it as then you aren't giving them any money. Even if you had to buy wifi access somewhere for the odd times you would have used their hotspots, it would probably be cheaper anyway.

I stopped using them years ago as they didn't offer a service worth paying the price they asked for it - About the only thing I missed was isp provided email, but theirs I found to be so flakey it wasn't worth using anyway (and still works now, despite not being their customer since 2016).

I'd have thought if it was able to leak, you'd know about it as the fluid would be pressurised there. Having had a sensor mounted onto the pump of another car give up and squirting fluid straight onto the exhaust, you'd soon smell it if it gets anywhere hot.

I'd get a piece of clean tissue and dab at it just to check the colour - Whilst new ATF is red, I've usually noticed it to be closer to black after its been in the system a while. The red bit to me looks more like antifreeze than ATF, so if its leaking, its probably from somewhere else (the pump or pipes are much more likely, are you sure it isn't leaking from somewhere further up?)

Not a bad idea, there should be some to grease on the propshafts themselves as well as the joints. You may find one of them is blanked off with a allen key bolt, if so you can unscrew one of the others and use that to apply the grease, then put the plug back where it came from.