It happens to me as well, but only on some of the sections here. I've just got used to going back to the section and hitting the mark as read button when i'm done in that bit.

I think its the opening time and oily bits i find it on, the other ones don't do it.

Its nowhere near as annoying as having to approve your own posts though.

Its possible for the vapouriser to leak gas into the coolant - and if yours is leaking from anywhere other than a hose connection (which doesn't sound like it is the case) then theres a good chance the vapouriser isn't keeping up with demand. This can be due to it being clogged up with heavy ends, but if its leaking it clearly isn't in a good state and in all likelyhood the diaphram isn't working as well as it should, which is what moves as the manifold vacuum changes to adjust the output pressure of the vapouriser.

As long as you used an injection vapouriser that can provide enough output for the engine, it doesn't have to be the same as what you currently have. Or as you say you could just rebuild what you have and see if it improves.

The real thing that will tell you whats going on is what pressure your getting out of it when its struggling - if its too low as suggested you just don't have enough time for the injectors to let enough out before they have to close as the inlet valve is closing. That can be down to nozzles being too small as well though (restrict the flow too much). Those are a balancing act between getting them too big (so too much fuel at idle as the injectors can't open/close fast enough) and not big enough (run out of time when demand is high). That said, the advice i was given for the omvl injectors on mine was to just remove the nozzles, that runs well now the ignition problems have been sorted, and when its in good order it does drive the same on both petrol and LPG. (thats a 4.0 in a Disco though, so a 4.6 shouldn't have problems with nozzles being too big at least as long as the pressure is somewhere in the right area). I've got the same injectors on a Focus and again, that doesn't behave any differently when driven on petrol or gas. It is worth having someone professional to do the mapping though (Simon in my case has done both of these, I've had other lpg cars where the kit was already installed by prior owners and they aren't always as trouble free, though given they were getting on a bit by that point its hardly surprising).

The thing is, if you have the Nanocom it fits in the glovebox, and can get you out of situations where you would otherwise be stuck.

I think someone else (possibly Richard) has entered the EKA using the wires to send the appropriate code due to a broken latch.

That might also account for the squeaking - mine did squeak at the same time. There was also noticeable play when the propshaft was moved from underneath with the axle lifted so the wheels were off the ground. Having watched again the other possibility I would say would be the cv joint on the driveshaft itself, but in any case I'd expect you'd find some movement there once you find the cause of it.

I had the same sort of noises when one of the universal joints began to fail - noticable as a thump when changing direction of travel (forward to reverse, or pulling out of a space when parked).

MarkTr wrote:

RutlandRover wrote:

MarkTr wrote:

Also PM'ed-- expect I am a bit late- but had to ask.

It arrived at my house this morning, sorry :P

Good for you--- I ordered one after I received no reply--- now I hope it does not get caught up in customs. Only businesses which provide a bunch of paperwork seem to get US customs attention. From the order reply I received when my order went through- Blackbox seems to wave a red flag with import paperwork. I know it is the correct and proper thing to do- but last time this happened I had to apply for an Importer license from the US government and pay double. This was about five years ago so I am sure it has lapsed. Not sure what paperwork triggers this response but it has only happened when I bought from a business.

It can sometimes be just as simple as the carrier used to ship causing it to trip something. As you say in your other reply you will have to wait and see as its already on its way. Alot of the Chinese sourced/supplied stuff here sails through customs with no issue even when it probably shouldn't do, but the Nanocom is a proper supported diagnostic tool supplied by the manufacturer and supported by them, unlike a lot of the cloned kit available out there for this sort of task on other vehicles.

Alternator not a bad call either as you say - I've had the fun of trying to source one for another car when i was over in Belfast and it decided to bring the battery light on. Wasted nearly a day trying to find somewhere with one before finding any success, none of the factors i could find had any, managed in the end to find an auto electrician who sourced one from Huddersfield and got it sent over on next day delivery. Backup "plan" was to find somewhere to buy a battery and hope I'd have enough range to get from there back into Wales via Dublin, where at worst it could be recovered. (roadside assistance only in ROI, no recovery and ferry was already booked from Dublin to Holyhead).

Mukiwa wrote:

I
Gilbertd wrote:

Now you know why I carry everything except for stuff I would never be able to use at the side of the road. Can't open the picture but having seen a couple of burnt fuseboxes I've got a pretty good idea of what you are dealing with. With a bit of creative bodgery you should be able to get it running enough to get you home though.

The problem is it's a big ice cream wafer so without cutting all the links (which may yet happen) I can't get into the bolt. Depending on when the new box is due to arrive that will be my next few days job.

I agree with you on carrying spares - but you only seem to carry the spares for the bits that went wrong and you repaired! What pre-emptive spares do you have on board barring being able to change tyres? I only have air valves and taps on the pipes sat in a box.

If its an auto given you can't start it by pushing, a starter motor isn't the worst of ideas to have with you if its somewhere where getting hold of one could be difficult. Less critical if its a manual, but its one of those stupid things that can leave you stuck somewhere. Something to repair minor leaks on hoses not a bad idea either (self amalgamating tape for example). A compressor (even just a normal tyre compressor) could also be useful if you find your needing your valves, even if just to raise it a bit till you can get to a garage with an air line.

You definitely do not want Terrafirma ones, i can tell you that. The back end of the Disco I've got has those on combined with coil springs, Granted they are better than the original completely knackered shocks that were on there (that were literally doing nothing at all in the way of any damping) but they have made the ride a bit too firm. I'm fairly sure i've seen others make the same remark.

I'd put the air back on the back of mine, but I'm more inclined to look for a p38 instead (Plus I'm not even sure whats left of mine, all i can see is some of the remaining wiring to the height sensors (which aren't there) and a couple of bits of pipe. No compressor or any of the rest of it!)

MarkTr wrote:

Gilbert- well my intention was to get her back on the road and once I felt no major item was about to break on me- that I would go back to airbags since all of the bits are still in place. I was going to buy bags and then rebuild each part of the system to make sure everything works before I install the bags. Have not figured out the jury-rigged bypass wiring which is a mess of single wires ending in fuses- but when I get to that I will ask the forum what they think is going one with the mess. Too much debate about springs/bags for me to understand the fine points unless I drive one myself. The spring on it right now are pretty floaty-- my 2005 Astro Van is way more precise in turns and way better damped. Could be the current dampers are not well matched to springs that are installed.

Printing out the codes and instructions seem like the path I will need to go. Wonder what the instruction are if you buy a used one- such as the one Billy may sell?

Its heavy, and was designed to be on air springs not coils. Possibly shot dampers won't be helping any, but most of those who've experienced both say there is a noticeable difference between air and coils, with air being far superior ride wise and more stable (after all it can adjust to give the right sort of ride for the conditions its set to/being used in).

Your unlikely to find anyone on here in favour of coils - look at the title banner if you haven't seen it already.

If you buy a used one with the codes already unlocked you wouldn't need to register it as it would be already registered, probabbly worth confirming with the seller if they can give you access to the portal somehow if you need to add codes for any reason, or update the firmware etc. Might be worth checking with blackbox solutions to be on the safe side if your not sure.

MarkTr wrote:

Brian- so evolution it is.

I just read the procedure to register the evolution online---and also perhaps to turn on the software. Wow- almost as complicated as the alarm system on these P38's

I am going to wait and see if Billy has already promised his Evolution (?) to the first member who contacted him-- and if so- I should not wait up buying a new one.

If you could manage to find and register on here, then you will be able to sort the nanocom registration, its not hard at all, just a case of following steps and putting the unlock codes in the right place. If you don't have a laptop to use with the Nanocom in the car powered from there, either print the instructions out and follow them or get the power supply with it and do it with the instructions on the computer.

MarkTr wrote:

Marty-

I think you have tipped me toward the evolution. I always buy as many factory tools I can for jobs I know I will take on for each car/truck I own/restore/wrench on. I have a shelf load of them-- but I offer the appropriate ones to the next caretaker but most do not wrench and just want to buy a car from me because they know it will be right-- at least until it is not. I am often surprised how long the new owner goes without worry-even when I told them I was watching something on the car like a T/O bearing noise. Something I would replace in the next month or so just because stuff like that drives me crazy.

So it was just my craziness that I was debating the Pro box versus the home mechanic box. If you think the evolution will do what I need- then saving the money is a plus. I may get lucky and find a used one- but aside from the one just advertised here-- i have never seen a used P38 specific one on ebay so far.

The thing is with the Nanocom Evolution you can keep it in the glovebox for use if the eka is required (door lock/fob issues can cause a right headache here as many posts will tell you) or any other odd things while your out and about if you get stuck.

It might help to give it a go over with a wet vac and some carpet shampoo to try and get rid of the coolant as far as possible as far as the carpet is concerned, but as you say it really needs the warmer weather to make much difference.

MarkTr wrote:

Also-- I have not found a definitive set of part diagrams and part numbers. I have zeroed in on Reno parts, and the Russian website which provides a good amount of diagrams and part numbers- but not all. I could not find numbers for the seat aprons and other such bits-- and none have a separate break out covering special edition part numbers like the H&H. I know that LL had to have supplemental part numbers- but where can I find them?

Thank you again--Now I also need a either a Nano or and Evolution--- any pros/cons- or does it just come down to price between the two. I am afraid to lock my doors until I buy one of these.

Nano and evolution is the same piece of kit - its a Nanocom evolution thats the current model (they did make . Have a look at the website for the manufacturer to get a bit more info on what it can do, There are other options from elsewhere, but everyone here whos tried them ends up getting a Nano instead.
https://www.nanocom-diagnostics.com/
They did do an earlier model just called the Nanocom, but thats no longer made (still supported, but only option there is to find a second hand one)

Microcat might have more info on the part numbers if you can get hold of it (used to be widely available on ebay for a few pounds, but not anymore) as you can specify by VIN on that rather than looking at the parts lists available elsewhere.

I've seen them make a poor job of a machine screw! Pack of 10 and at least 4 of them had heads with the slot nowhere near the centre. Does explain why the local indie that gets occasional parts for my mate with his Series III only does full packs of small stuff, its usually blue bags for all of it, so need a full pack to get enough usable ones.

no10chris wrote:

I’ve had the same thing happen on a pug 405td many years ago, I would say your in the right ballpark for sure, as for it being the Orings it’s possible, on mine it was the cooler itself.
Hardest thing is getting the oil out of the cooling system, run some gunk ect through it, I also put a dishwasher tablet in the system, was a hell of a job, test the cooler before you do anything, a lot of work otherwise.
PBC 500230 is the oil cooler repair kit, it looks like island4x4 do it, new cooler, gaskets and O rings. £125.
Hmmm sounds like it will be the cooler itself !

I'd found one at around £65, but have a suspicion its a Britpart one so avoiding that as it either won't fit, won't work or will be missing vital bits.

Its had a new radiator as the old one was full of radweld where someone had been trying to fix the water leak (which was actually the water pump we found once putting a pressure test kit on it - once that leak was sorted and the other dodgy looking pipes replaced, it then blew the top hose apart.

Dishwasher tablet idea sounds like a useful one to have in mind once we stop the oil getting in there, Cheers.

Slightly off topic for here, but got to be worth a shot!

Been looking at an overheating/over-pressuring TD5 engine on a 1999 Disco - It seems to be putting oil into the coolant, but not the other way round. Was initially suspected to be the head gasket, but it appears the td5 has an oil cooler mounted on the side of the block that has 2 o rings that over time stop sealing effectively, this allows the oil to seep out into the coolant.

Trouble is, I can't seem to find a part number or size for these o rings - Microcat doesn't show them as a seperate part, I've arrowed the ones in question in the attached screenshot.

Anyone know of either a specification for them, or a part number? The one labelled 8 is ERR7098, but this only shows a qty of 1, suggesting its not that?

It might be worth having a look under the bonnet when its a problem if its dark, if the sparks are tracking away from their correct location you might actually be able to see them.

Has it had a new set of spark plugs recently? If not it might be time to try starting with those as the simplest thing first.
Its not a diesel, says its the 4.6 in his signature.

davew wrote:

I see that Halfords are still operating Black Friday deals until Midnight.... https://www.halfords.com/advice/cycling/brands/black-friday

Hmm.... I might get some clips as I am getting tired of tucking my pants in my socks....

To be fair it may just be the bike sales that are keeping them going: On-line sales will eventually hit the Retail Parks, not just the High Streets ?....

Ok, to be really fair I just checked out their deals (ie. beyond all their oil and kiddy seats 'offers'...) and found a Michelin Cordless Inflator.. £60
and on e-bay some (chancers) wanted £80.....

Not everything can wait for delivery though, Some stuff it simply isn't worth getting delivered either. Though it did seem fairly dead in the Thetford branch today when i ended up in there for a couple of bits where we discovered tools wouldn't fit in the space available on the first visit, and then had to go back and replace the new antifreeze that had been dumped over the road thanks to a spring clip on a hose that had decided it didn't want to do its job anymore.

The fan must need to come off, as its on the water pump spindle, the threaded stub surrounded by the bolts labelled 2 is for the fan if you have the viscous one fitted. If you have some sort of electric fan fitted then you might get away with it in place, but it would be easier with the fan removed.

The proper fitting pair of spanners for that does make it a lot easier to do.