Another one with a daft description, and whats with the Bow and arrows?
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Range-Rover-p38-dt/142958427222
The steering is nicely exposed so with two of you it should be possible to see if there is play in either rod or the box itself with someone looking underneath and other person moving the steering about. Assuming its not either the wheel bearing or balljoints causing it (I had a wheel bearing allowing a noticeable amount of play when jacked up without any noise coming from it, though with the shot balljoints at the same time not helping any, replacing both balljoints on both sides and the bearing made a hell of an improvement when going over the rubbish back roads round this way). The longer link had been replaced for the previous mot due to a knackered end on that at the time.
GeorgeB wrote:
BrianH wrote:
My mate's boss doesn't believe in changing oil in vehicles. So far over the last few years he has killed at least 5 vans I know of due to the oil having the consistency of tar when its cold, another one died when the timing chain finally snapped after he was told for nearly 6 months it needed attention as it sounded like a bag of spanners in a cement mixer when running, and hes on the way to finishing off another 2 at the minute.
Hes also got a p38 that is now off the road as he kept driving it when it was overheating.
He's not Asian is he? That sounds just like a Philippine maintenance programme!
No hes about as English as they come!, hes a qualified plumber so you'd think he would understand basic maintaince of something mechanical (or at least learnt after the first or second time it had happened). Think he'd be more suited to running as an MP than anything that involved any actual work, being hopeless seems to be on the job spec for that.
no10chris wrote:
It amazes me that people carry on driving when there getting strange things happening to there cars, yet us as p38 owners chase a squeak, let alone anything more serious, lol
My mate's boss doesn't believe in changing oil in vehicles. So far over the last few years he has killed at least 5 vans I know of due to the oil having the consistency of tar when its cold, another one died when the timing chain finally snapped after he was told for nearly 6 months it needed attention as it sounded like a bag of spanners in a cement mixer when running, and hes on the way to finishing off another 2 at the minute.
Hes also got a p38 that is now off the road as he kept driving it when it was overheating.
But yes - I've generally found if you fix a fault when it starts being noticed its easier and usually cheaper to fix, and less chance of leaving you stuck somewhere that way.
no10chris wrote:
If it didn’t like going round corners it’s definitely the viscous that had gone, it’s as though the the brakes are on, then suddenly release, I would imagine driving with it would be scary for sure,
I’ve only experienced it turning a customers car round.
I think from what was said it had chewed up the diff gears as well (suspect it had the viscous gone and was driven like that for a while as she didn't know any different till it got really bad that something was wrong with it). It did sound like it was sort of like the rear brakes sticking as you describe. I think from what was said it actually broke some of the casing and actually locked up before she realised something was seriously wrong with it hence it hasn't been repaired, just made to work as front wheel drive only. I've not looked under it to see, only going off what was said.
My sister has the diesel one, and thats also running around with no rear propshaft due to something failed in the rear axle (no idea what exactly has failed as her husband "fixed" it by removing the propshaft but it wasn't clear what the problem was besides it not wanting to go around corners with the propshaft installed)
Provided either your front or rear solenoid work as they should it won't leak out as they shut the supply off (they should both work of course!), you will just get a small amount of leakage from whatever is in the pipework to the injectors from the vapouriser. If your concerned about that then disconnect the feed from the coil to either solenoid and let it run till it switches back, or if its a single point tank turn the tap on the valve off and run till it runs out.
Done somewhere ventilated its not a worry really as its a small amount you will be losing.
Looking from the front/bonnet it should be, any doubt best thing to do is unplug one of the sensors and check which reading drops out (or stays dead).
I have the icarsoft for Renault, and Clip. Out of the two Clip is more useful, Icarsoft will only let you view details and clear fault codes. If thats what you want (and i can't confirm if Icarsoft can do that for the SRS - you'd need to confirm with the seller or manufacturer themselves) then fine, but I wish i'd got Clip first as the Icarsoft unit doesn't completely work as it should do. Nano is a lot more capable, and will handle EKA issues which i'd be fairly certain icarsoft wouldn't be able to do (which given that can leave you stranded would be a reason to have it alone)
number 4 shows as err4961 in Microcat - Check this link should help with the length!
https://www.brit-car.co.uk/product.php/85060/5497/bolt_m8_exhaust_manifold_v8_p38_range_rover
Also shows 16 against the quantity.
7/8/12/13 all show quantity 1 against them, Each are sided and different lengths so you should need 1 of each of those if you want to change them
10 shows 8 against quantity, M6 x 12mm for heatshield
15 has same part number, shows 9 as quantity, same size as above
7/8/12/13 i would say are to secure the heatshield to the engine/manifold in some way. They look like they should go into the holes shown in the heatshields on 9/14 in the middle of the part, but thats only a guess.
Interesting though, I've just tried browsing whilst not logged in and can't see any change?
Can you obtain a spark tester if you still suspect an ignition issue and try to compare? When you swapped the coil pack over was it all 8 cylinders swapped out or one half of it (and if so do you know it works on another engine, if not that might be the easiest way to prove if your happy with it or not).
Bear in mind if there is a spark but its weak, that will be the same as a failing coil pack potentially (had that on another car of mine which was on lpg, converted by an installer prior to my ownership, turned out to be a sharp point on the solder joint on the coil pack wiring was shorting out the coil pack feed to the trigger, had taken a few years to develop into a problem as well).
Gilbertd wrote:
That's strange. I can open the one Chris posted but not the ARP instructions. On this forum for me links normally open in the same window (which is a bit of a pain as I can end up wandering off on a tangent and losing my way back to the forum) but if I right click the arp link and select open link in another tab, it does but all I get is a blank page. Probably something to do with different browsers, pop up blockers, etc. Firefox V62 on Windows 7 using a popup blocker and Ad blocker too here.
Same version of Firefox here, Windows 10 64 bit. No blockers etc installed. Had issues with one of Simon's links to Imgur as well. Can't get same link to open in IE either so don't think its browser related.
It should reduce the problem, the changes in altitude won't help much either, but if you can minimize the effect that will help.
If its missing are you getting any misfire codes logged? Gems might not detect them as well as Thor, so no guarantee it will actually pick them up. I've found that generally if you have a pattern to the misfires you can work out which part is a problem (a pair of cylinders for example is most likely a coil pack, particularly if the pair in question is on the same side of that coil). A broken trigger wire (or damage to one even if its still partially joined) could also cause the same problem, though would expect that to come up as a fault if completely broken, if its damaged it can either short out to earth if anything is close enough to touch, or just work badly intermittently).
A low fuel level should also produce more petrol vapour in the tank as it sloshes around more, that plus the temperature might explain it. Would also explain why its better with more fuel in the tank and the adaptives reset. Being Gems it has a fuel return as well which also means more vapour generated.
Link is the instructions linked to from here > https://arp-bolts.com/kits/ARPkit-detail.php?RecordID=4560
25/50/70 is whats shown there. Plus the order, though would expect thats the same as in Rave anyway.
Theres something odd happening with some of the links here, as I can't open the one Chris posted earlier in the thread either.
Don't know - never got that far with mine, though i didn't get the pirated version bit either that was mentioned above. If i wanted to do that sort of stuff I'd use either the Nano/Torque pro/VCDS depending what vehicle it was I was dealing with but never really found a need to do so. Far as I know the port is to upgrade the software on the unit if required, only knew about it as I'd had to do so whilst the seller was still trying to troubleshoot mine.
I believe this is the correct instructions to follow
https://arpinstructions.com/instructions/157-4301.pdf
You probably also want this > https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-RB7680L
Does your head gasket kit also include the valley gasket?
You can view the fuel trims with the creader on lpg and compare to petrol running, if its setup/calibrated correctly they should be the same. Though its easier to monitor the injector timings and compare directly in the software.
The creader will still show you whats going on when on gas, any error codes generated would still be valid, you'd just need to work out if they were LPG issues or not before trying to fix them. (misfire and which cylinders can help tracing faults for example)
More a case of a crappy eBay seller was the problem with mine, it was cheap though. I've got a couple of other bits (the icarsoft for Renault being one of them) which works fine, I suspect mine was either a reject/return from someone else as the front of the screen cover isn't properly stuck down on it either.
Unless your getting a problem with it I wouldn't bother trying to flash it, Its not like its got as much going on underneath as the Nano for example, where bugs/errors are fixed that are more noticeable in use. I've also got a VCDS chinese copy, which other than being a bit of faffing about to get the software installed works fine for what it was needed for (resyncing immobiliser and speedo on a Golf that someone had killed the cluster on, which you can't do with the free version)