super4 wrote:
Thanks Brian - I have to download drivers it seems and I have the websites - but it does say the Creader 6 is discontinued although available on ebay I have to say that for a P38 it is really good value even though things like suspension, HEVAC and ABS are not included. I have these covered with my EAS ver 4 so all in all as Gilbert pointed out, it is a pretty inexpensive way of getting diagnostics - only problem for me is then knowing how to interpret them !!
Mine as you may have seen was £29 (used) but new ones seem available at £40 or so.
Mine died (also a 6) though it was useful for the few hours it worked for. And yes it may be discontinued, but its not like your connecting it to a 2018 vehicle so shouldn't really matter anyway.
The Newbury 4x4 jumble sale is in 2 weeks time on the Sunday if your after parts.
It will power via the usb connector when on the pc. As you need to be able to do so to upgrade the software on it anyway if required. It appears to be the same hardware to me as the icarsoft units, just with different software loaded.
It might - new air filter may also help somewhat, Is it on petrol or LPG? (I'd suspect petrol?). It may be a sign of a failed cat or lambda sensor, worth checking what the fuel trims are showing if you can see them at all?
Morat wrote:
Quote of the day "Mummy, why does Daddy need an ankle grinder?"
To cut his toenails obviously!
To be fair to the Nano, those kind of diagnostics done at a LR dealer would quickly add up to the cost of the Nano over a couple of years. Engine isn't so bad as other stuff can look at it, but the minute you get into anything else (the ABS being one possible unit to look at that I got mine for) your left with the option of getting diagnostics, identifying part and fitting it/sorting fault then a second diagnostics session to clear the fault.
The basic unit also is upgradable to cover most Land Rovers (at a cost, but the cost is only mostly the cost of another diagnostics session at the dealer anyway at which point you've got it for the next time as well with no further cost).
Also the Nano isn't vin locked - some of the other diagnostics that are available are locked to a specific vehicle, somewhat limiting their use.
Gilbertd wrote:
So what are you doing cutting into an ATM? I thought the usual method was to ram raid the location and then open it with a plasma cutter......
ATM actually meaning automatic ticket machine (cinema) in this case - and as said above removing screws some other muppet had chewed up using the wrong tools to take them out.
No point in ram raiding it when the thing only takes cards and contains no cash. Besides which the current preferred method going by the news is to fill them with gas and explode them! Also rather difficult when its on the 4th floor inside the building :)
Morat wrote:
Err so.. if I use the 1mm disk to try and cut through a 10mm bolt from the side am I taking my life in my hands?
Bearing in mind I've never used an angle grinder before (apart from a Dremel stylus which doesn't really count) what should I be aware of?Morat trots off to google "how to use an angle grinder"
Not really - a 10 mm bolt shoudn't present too many problems, just bear in mind which way the disc spins and try to avoid getting anything that doesn't want showering in sparks or bits of metal in the way of the output from it. If you can find some scrap bits of metal have a bit of practice on them first if your not sure, but really the most difficult bit is changing the disc (which if you have discs that fit, and the tool to remove them that will come with it isn't hard).
A fixed bolt shouldn't present any major problem, but watch you don't cut anything else nearby that doesn't want cutting (they will chew through cables or hoses like a knife through butter). Your more likely to get problems with something that pinches as you start cutting as it will try to grab the disc as your trying to get the disc to pass through it, thats when the discs will explode on you usually.
Main thing to be careful of is not using discs with chunks missing from them already - you will soon know as it will vibrate through the tool anyway.
Must be a firefox thing! The top link works now, turns out it had somehow missed off the i. at the start as well which is why it didn't work.
The 1mm discs are also useful to cut heads in mangled bolts that you need to unscrew (not so much car related ones, I've used them in the past to undo machine screws in the casing of an ATM that someone else had mangled up the heads on, couldn't just grind them off as I needed the screw to unscrew from the tapped hole). Nowhere near as effective as the thicker ones for that.
I'm not a fan of Lidl for tools either, I've seen arc welding rods that have been no use from them, wouldn't trust their angle grinding discs here either.
Not sure whats wrong there, but even with the .jpg added to the end that doesn't load for me.
Lpgc wrote:
Daring types use angle grinders without the guard attached to allow getting into tighter spaces but some of us have scars on arms, indentations in thumbs and bits of metal burned into scalps that didn't used to be there before using an angle grinder.
The 1mm cutting disks are great for cutting but while you can use a 2/3 mm disk for a bit of very mild grinding (and I know it shouldn't really be done with a 2 or 3mm disk), don't try even mild grinding with a 1mm disk lol.
A few months ago we had the need to use the angle grinders larger brother - the one that takes 9" discs. We couldn't locate the one thats normally in the workshop right away, the guy that owns the land where the workshop is said don't worry I've got one. Few minutes later he appeared with one of those without any guard fitted to it. We didn't use it as we had found the one we had in the meantime, but that looked like something that could easily go wrong if the disc got stuck and exploded as they sometimes do with some quite messy consequences.
I'd think you can remove the bit that sits inside to get round that problem, might take a bit of experimenting to get it right though.
RutlandRover wrote:
BrianH wrote:
Your best bet might be to remove the fan and have another look - that way you know its not getting blown anywhere. Alternatively this sort of thing might help
Idea behind that is the same as Chris says above, put a bit of pressure in the system and see if you can detect any leaks that way.
Have you used this kit? It doesn't list Land Rover/Range Rover in the adapter list but does list BMW. Is the header tank on P38s a borrowed BMW item?
I've used a kit I've already got, but had it a couple of years now. Looks similar to that, its in a red case, has the pump and such. I've not tried it on any Land Rover as not needed it there, the coolant leaks i've had on mine haven't needed them, so can't confirm the cap fits. I'd go with the suggested spare cap with a hole drilled into it if you can valve it in some way as you suggest, cheaper!
Doesn't need lots of pressure either - a hand pump like you'd have on a bike would be adequate, the advantage with doing it using just pressure is you can do it on a cold engine so its far easier to trace difficult leaks as you can prod and probe about without getting burnt (or caught in moving bits etc!)
I've found unless you want a cordless angle grinder, that the cheap ones (around £30) last for a couple of years before failing in some way or another. More often than not due to getting dropped on the floor or abused in some stupid way. But more than adequate for removing the odd bolt.
Cheap example https://www.screwfix.com/p/titan-ttb281grd-750w-4-angle-grinder-230-240v/93905 £29.99
Your best bet might be to remove the fan and have another look - that way you know its not getting blown anywhere. Alternatively this sort of thing might help
Idea behind that is the same as Chris says above, put a bit of pressure in the system and see if you can detect any leaks that way.
If you've had a major aircon leak (assuming you have A/C) then that has a yellowey green dye in it for leak detection, it may be that your seeing over the top of the engine. Given the compressor on the v8 is up at the top as well its in the right place if that failed previously.
Bear in mind if someone who either believed the system was empty or was being careless just undid the hoses to the compressor this would have the same effect, equally the viscous fan or airflow through the engine bay could spread a gradual leak to get all over the place.
Gilbertd wrote:
Ah but that's if you plug it in to a standard 13A socket, if you have their charging station installed, it only takes 9 hours for a full charge. What they don't tell you is that you have to have a 3 phase supply installed in your house to power it. Like that's going to be possible in a modern housing estate.
Has anyone else noticed the irony of the ads encouraging people to have a smart meter installed so you can identify where you are wasting electricity and switch stuff off and the fact that they have announced a ban on the sale of halogen replacement lamps now LED technology has caught up, again to save electricity. Then they try to encourage people to buy an electric car.......
The smart meter is as much about making the supply more complicated to understand - when you look into it, part of what they are supposed to allow doing is variable pricing by time of day, which will end up like Uber and their surge pricing.
And yes, not only the 3 phase aspect there, but would buying into their system even be wise given how unstable the company appears?
Gilbertd wrote:
Amused that the Tesla came out bottom though.......
Not just bottom, but a long way behind everyone else by the looks of things too. Mind you even if it was in working order, you'd still be dissappointed with the at home charging option - if it takes the quoted 52 hours charging from flat, thats an awful lot of electricity going back into it, suggesting its not anywhere near as efficient as they try to make out.
Given its a dual piston setup I'd suspect the one you have sticking wasn't moving as easily, maybe not at all some of the time. The pistons can be brought as can the seals that go on them, If its started rusting behind the seal then it may be that it just puts enough resistance on the movement to make the other one move without it, in that case the pad would start to skew possibly and then jam.
If you have it off again, I'd consider replacing the seal and possibly the piston (you can't tell what state they are in till they come off, but when i had to deal with mine due to a split outer boot, the chrome finish off the piston was all flaking off, replaced piston and seals and it was fine afterwards, had been slightly seized prior to that). A cap off an aerosol cap with the top cut off helped when reassembling mine (you need to get the outer boot into its locating ridge, and thats the only way we had available to hold it in there while reinserting the piston)
You can see alot of the functions of the Nanocom off the emulator - https://www.nanocom-diagnostics.com/downloads click emulator from the top bar.
The current price is €474.81 or £446.42 - so given the current exchange rate you'd be getting a better price in Euros anyway. Still a lot of money to find at any rate unfortunately. Even second hand they aren't cheap, as they do the job well unlike some of the tools out there.
I've seen the results of rats finding some house wiring - all the insulation stripped off from around 10 feet of twin and earth cable in a ceiling, amazingly they survived doing so as well, despite it being live as it was the lighting and sockets ring main.