It can be that some of the bluetooth adaptors don't support all the protocols required as well - I've had a few that won't work on certain Fords, due to them using SAE J1850 PWM.

I've even got 2 that look identical, but one of them works and the other doesn't on that car, but will work on others just not anything requiring that protocol. You can't even completely trust the description on some of them for what they support if its come off eBay as there tends to be a lot of copy/paste going on.

Cheers Richard!

The OAT stuff should last for longer, think its 5 years rather than 2. Thats only helpful if it stays contained for the 5 years though.

I find the OAT stuff is easier to find leaks with as it tends to show up better.

I've never known a diesel engine that doesn't black up the oil within 100 miles of changing it.

Slightly off topic but not too far, does anyone have a copy of Rave with coverage of the TD5 engine fitted to the Discovery 2? The copy I've got only covers the proper engine with hyperlinks off to the oil burner, which don't work.

I'm still puzzled by the caravan not being covered under your RAC policy - Everything in their blurb says it should be provided it was attached to the vehicle when the vehicle broke down.
From their T&C's on their website - https://www.rac.co.uk/pdfs/breakdown/310314-drive-uk-breakdown-terms-and-conditions.pdf

"Caravans or Trailers
If your caravan or trailer breaks down within the UK more than 1/4 mile from your home, we will send help to try and repair the caravan or trailer at the roadside. This could be a permanent or temporary repair. We will not provide any other cover under this policy if your caravan or trailer breaks down.
However if a vehicle breaks down and there is a caravan or trailer attached to it we will recover the caravan or trailer as well."

Is it just down to the cover you have because its through the bank and somehow different, or are they missing out the vital bit of it being provided, but not paid for under the cover?

It shouldn't go up as far as 3/4 - it may be a dodgy sensor, or a plumbing or fan issue. It would be an idea to check the temp using the same diagnostics to see what its actually registering. It should also be sitting around normal once warmed up, not right down at the bottom of the gauge, that to me suggests some sort of thermostat issue (if its been removed by someone previously then it will take longer to warm up than it should, which won't help any).

Still more fun than sitting round waiting to be relayed over a long distance with it! It took me all day to get back home from j19 of the M6, not an experience I wish to repeat.

It will do, thats part of the problem, you end up with 2 systems fighting each other if its not calibrated well enough effectively.

25 miles should usually be enough to get it somewhere about right, though if yours has been run for the most part on gas it might take a bit longer to clear up the petrol injectors to run perfectly, I'd expect it to be somewhere near right by now.

I seem to remember (without connecting the Nano to check) that there is something to reset adaptives on the gearbox as well, or at least there is on the Disco 2. I think thats what i did after changing coil packs to correct a misfire problem as the box didn't quite behave as it should. Don't know if you have access to that with the EAS Storey software. But those adaptives should also adapt anyway, but I'd expect those to take a bit longer to adjust.

Generally with the adaptives you should notice it stops changing - when theres no noticeable improvement over a couple of trips I'd suspect they have reached as good as they are going to get.

super4 wrote:

Well, have to report some results ! Filled with about 10 galls - not used to seeing how high the needle was on gauge - reset adaptives and drove 12 miles or so along motorway and lo and behold, noticed a big difference - much more as it should be !! Still slow to change down under load at times - had to use sport mode a few times to keep up the speed but overall a 100 percent better. So overall much improved but there is still a tendency not to want to change down when it should. It is as if the ECU is not getting some info about speeds and demands - the only thing not yet replaced is the Crankshaft speed sensor - does this give the RPM that shows on the dashboard because if so that still shows as you would expect. But I'm grateful to all as we are at least on the right track Done about 25 miles of varied motoring - how long might it need to make its mind up and when do I judge that all the adaptives have done their best and still need to look further ?

Was that all on petrol or gas?

I'd also give your ignition (distributor and leads/plugs) a check over if it hasn't been looked at in a while while your there.

Dadarara wrote:

Woohooo.so much information guys. Thank you thank you. Though I am technical person I am not a mechanic.
Sadly I can't see the model sticker on the ECU. It's hidden in between .... but I see it's also unreadable. Too old.
Any other way to know the model. more interesting is maybe to know the firmware version. I would think the software should show that. But I didn't see it.
The 0.45 is the measurement of the solenoid movment which is the open and close of the individual opening in the rail.
I am also confused as I don't have any injectors apart from the two rails with the solenoids. It looks like Valtek injector rail. Type 03. The nozzles are 2.3 that's engraived on them.
I don't have lamdas connected to the ECU.
I even have one lamda nonfunctional. This causes a non stable idle engine run. When at high speed it doesn't have any affect. Or maybe I am wrong as I am not really a mechanic. So I don't see how lamdas have any connection to the LPG part of the system.

In any case I think I need to check why switching one injector off the engine stops. Maybe the idle is too low 700/800. Will boost it a little and then test.
One bad symptom is when I at high speed without too much load The engine starts to get jerky. When I push gas peddle or slow down (kind of opposite to each other in terms of gas flow) It gets better. Some timing issue or other.
There is a fact that I drive this for 10 years. But maybe I am ignorant enough to NOT notice there is a problem. I can't say with confidence that although it was running for 10 years that means the installation was perfect.

I'd suggest you fix the lambda sensor - The petrol injector timings are altered using that with other things to keep it around the right mixture. The lpg ecu will take those calculated timings and adjust them to suit. If the timings are wrong in the first place (as it doesn't have a working lambda to control them with) you're not starting from a good point. You might get away with it with a open loop single point system, but not with a multipoint or any other closed loop system. Any idea if its working above idle speed (and even if it provides an output, can it be correct if its not working fully?).

Taking some photos might help identify what you've got while your there? also on the version you already have the software working, so which software is it your using (name and version of it, that should narrow down the options somewhat)

super4 wrote:

Well I'm in good hands with Brian and Gilbert - just as a curious boy at back of class - tell me - If fuel is low and I do the 'reset adaptives' with my Storey EAS are you saying that the ECU says to itself 'Fuel low - ignore Adaptive reset' and therefore does not carry out any reset ? I'm sure that is a tricky one for you - expect you know though !

It doesn't really matter if the reset has worked or not, thats not the crucial bit. What you need it to do is self-adjust which it won't do until the fuel level is above the 1/4 tank level. I can't see any reason why the fuel level would prevent you resetting it personally, though thats not to say it won't do. I can't confirm if the Storey unit will do a reset correctly or not, never seen or used one, but would expect if its there it should work.

The switching cylinder issue sounds to me like the injector cuts are mixed up - if they haven't crossed banks that shouldn't matter so much, but would be a good place to start sorting it out. Also bear in mind an ignition fault will show up more on gas than petrol.

Given its a Disco 1? Don't know if you have any diagnostics to access on that offhand? I'd suspect if it was working originally that the issue your seeing when swapping injectors from petrol to gas isn't your issue, or you have an injector that isn't opening/closing at all (maybe injector at fault there or something else). Have you cleaned the solenoids at tank and reducer as they can sometimes clog up, Also is the outlet valve on the tank (if its a single hole) fully open at the same time? If it is a supply issue rather than ignition I'd expect you to see pressure being a bit erratic if you can see it in the software.

Might be easier to take photos of the bits you can see if your not sure what type they are and post them here, someone should be be able to identify them then.

Yes they were alot more noticeable (you could also feel them) before the pads were changed though.

Had a look though the paperwork that came with the car and the only receipt i can find for pads/discs was at 121k - Its now on 174 so doubt its the same pads i swapped out, though probably the same discs. no makes specified as it was a garage that did the work on that occasion so not really much help.

it would sound like its not seeing a required condition - usually its not seeing something happen its asking you to do, or something is broken and stopping it autocalibrate.

Why do you think it needs it now? Has it stopped working? If so what does it do or not do when you try to use it?

Have had a look in the light and can't get a decent photo without taking the wheel off, best i can do is this.

Bear in mind it hasn't moved in 2 weeks and the marks were more noticable before swapping the pads. This is also on the front, didn't notice the same on the rear.

Just to be clear - the marks crossing the discs (edge of the pads in particular) were the most noticeable bits, though the light scoring was there as well. Its done about 1000 miles since and the marks are still there, though not as visible as they were before. Will get a photo in the light of them.

I've had very similar marks on the front discs of the Disco - I did find the brakes to be shocking at first (read barely working). Replaced the rear discs and pads as the previous owner had changed the pads, but with the cheapest ones he could find after the previous ones had worn out completely down to metal, investigaing discovered ridges over the back of one disc so thought that was the problem.

Made it a bit better but not much, so decided to do the front pads with some decent ones (back were now Brembo discs and pads) so got hold of some Mintex pads only as those discs appeared reasonably ok besides the odd marks. Found a seized caliper in the process (fixed with cleanup and new seals), but performance still rubbish afterwards. Ended up changing the master cylinder which transformed the brakes no end (particularly once it had been run for an hour or so the pedal would occasionally just disappear to the floor without really doing a lot to actually give a feeling of stopping with the old one). I think the marks disappeared after that, I'll have a look in the light tomorrow.

I've no idea what discs were on there, I think they are the same calipers as the P38 though. The pads he had fitted were Juratek I think on the back, he did say he'd swapped the front ones previously though.

Putting them back to factory settings would only really help on a new engine, the adaptives are there to adjust as the engine/injectors etc all wear, sensors wear - its designed to compensate for these sort of issues, hence it has to relearn them and won't be perfect immediately.

Quarter of a tank sloshing around could mean your drawing in the odd bit of vapour rather than liquid petrol - its probabbly a bit of an overestimate, but thats why it behaves like that. Bear in mind that 1/4 of a tank of petrol wouldn't take you a massive distance anyway so you wouldn't usually have the level that low for long as the car was designed (without LPG) so the adaptives would adjust the rest of the time anyway.

Lpgc wrote:

I'll offer my son's services to anyone who takes it over to help it meet legislation and switch platforms etc lol... It's OK I've asked him!
Someone like Richard probably wouldn't need the help though.

I'd suspect scrubbing the user data and keeping the content with an attached username without the profile info would be enough to cover any concerns regarding transfer of the data, typically this happens when the forum software goes for a major upgrade when its jumped versions elsewhere. I would imagine most of the concerns could be addressed with the active members quite easily, its the inactive ones hes probably more concerned about.

Sadly its often the way that forums end up dying due to people having moved on from the original subject after a few years, one of the others i use has had various issues with the software, meaning now that most new posts get missed as nothing gets brought to the top, no post counts get increased either so if anyone replies to anything beyond the top post in a forum it doesn't get seen.