Have a look here Mark, is this what you are looking for?
clamps
If in Dutch click the Union Jack in right-top corner.
They also sell CT clamps!
Orangebean wrote:
There are no leads or connectors that I can see under the upper plenum where the petrol injection wiring lives around #1 or #2 injectors that are connected to the LPG system.
Forgive me my ignorence, this a total shot in the dark as I hardly know where I'm talking about when it comes to LPG but on my AEB-D system the "3rd wires" on the petrol injectors are at petrol injectors 7 and 8.
I thought I better mention it.
Tony.
Martyuk wrote:
I'm thinking I need to do a count up and replace them all with constant tension clamps, like the ones that the vehicle came with, and then that might see a few more potential leaks solved
That I prefer too, my experience is a sort of set and forget compared to the manual clamps which need retigtening. Problem is the correct size, they all carry a number referred to size and sometimes they just slightly differ like the heatercore clamps and the overflowbottleclamps. Nowhere I can find a listing for them what size to use. Anyone has that info? Your mileage shouldn't be too bad if I look at it or is my math wrong converting it to litres per km?
I also got the 'ABS DEFEKT' and 'TRAKTIONS FEHLER' message (I get them in German) after fitting a new battery (109 Ah) and renewing the front halfshaft seals.
Turned out to be a not fully seated ABS sensor.
To avoid all of previous mentioned arguments and discussions with patrolmen I fitted these Philips H4.
Not spectacular but a serious improvement. The package says they are good for 400 hours compared to standard 700 hours of brightness, we'll see.
Also fitted them (H1) in the high beams.
Better be careful with that heater, headlamps sometimes melt...
PM me some valid mailadress then.
Is the pinout of the AEB 2568D 50-pin socket the same as installed by Vogels? I do have a hardwaremanual with pinout if you wish.
Tony.
Orangebean wrote:
A no-cost, low risk, tiny time fix!
I like low budget solutions! If all else fails I'll do that, I could use the rockershaft pedestalshims for adjustment ha ha.
Thanks Mark.
Aha, I see for you it makes sense to hurry up a bit, my time is for free. Priceless or worthless just the way you look at it. My both units have rusted nuts on the vertical part of the lamp, the lower ones are loose. I have a smaller size anglegrinder, when I use that with a almost worn cuttingdisc I must be able to get there. Next challenge, will I be able to free the adjusment mechanism, this is the reason to take out the lamps. The beams are a bit too far to the left (centre-axis of the road over here) so whilst not to high they do dazzle upcoming traffic and I want to correct that before a MoT tester tries to.
Forgot to say: DeWalt are the best Richard, nice gear!
I can take a joke to a certain extent but I'm in the same boat. Is this what I can expect when using a dremel?
Orangebean wrote:
Does mean I have a couple of one-way valves somewhere in the postal service that I don't need, so, if anyone needs one...
I think it's best to put them there where you stacked the other 20...
So it's a two part resin, I know where to look for now. Thanks guys.
Promises promises...
What is that Araldite stuff you talk about? I also have a headlamp that I'm going to treat with a dremel because the adjusting mechanism is stuck.
Gilbertd wrote:
Oooh, that's pretty......
It had a sound... even with centre silencer it had a deep rumble like a Riva speedboat.
Here I have two coolantpumps, what is the difference?
I know, one has a hose attached to it but I mean the impeller. The steel one I found and recognised it as I bought it a year ago, the bronze came with another block and accidently I fitted it on my refurbished block. In my perception the steel impeller produces more flow and swapped it to my engine, together with a new thermostat.
Anyone recognises the bronze impeller as being an older version maybe?
Tony.
The lay-out is as pictured, as long as you have one 3-pin input connector at each side it is just as you showed.
Orangebean wrote:
True Tony. I have restored an old 200 Zundapp, Old Jawa trials bike, very old Ural as well as the more common Triumphs, BSA's (used to have a thing about triples) and much Jap stuff from late 60's to 80s.
Good old days. At 13 I started with a CZ, the clone of Jawa. A mate had a twin 2 stroke Victoria Bergmeister, with all the sheetmetal. I could not win.
Later I had the 500 cc single BSA, cost you a knee when starting the beast.
Under my Classic I had this SS exhaust and wrapped the manifolds with a special heat-resistant fabric to keep the temperature inside the exhaust. First it was a pain to wrap, especial when you reach the welded joints, second in less than 6 months they started to detoriate and come off.
Good plan, after all a ZF is too lumpy to fiddle with woodblocks etc.
There doesn't exist a classic bike with model p38 btw?