Mine are held in place only by the two brass studs and one m6 bolt on the rear, they don't clatter and if so I take it off and bend it a bit so it stops.

gordonjcp wrote:

Doesn't look like that horrible a job to get the camshaft out, lots of dismantling but nearly all of it done from the top or front once the sump's off :-)

The sump hasn't to be removed completely, undo the bolts until halfway to the rear, leave the rest a few turns in. That allows the sump to lower just enough to free the 3 front studs of the timingcover. Saves a lot of hassle underneath with no 4 post ramp. Only the suctionpipe is a bit tricky.
Tony.

A great video Marty, some parts I will replay slow motion!
And who said you can't swap an engine in 12 minutes...

Martyuk wrote:

I use NGK BPR6ES on my Thor aswell, and they seem to run fine, both on Petrol and LPG.

Ditto

Richard, ever heard of these ones? They are from Poland (you happen to be there once and awhile) and I was told they seem to be good.
These are the ones for Mr. Lucas:
enter link description here
and these should be for Bosch:
enter link description here
I have never heard of them.
Tony.

Marty as for the drip on the sumpbolt(s) just a question I hasitate to ask because V8 Dev did the crank for you and I assume they are beyond doubt, but did they use new crossbolts when installing the crank? These are special bolts that have a sort of gasket-washer to prevent oilleaks. Plus they go into the block where often a sumpbolt is located too.
It just crossed my mind.
Tricky to give them a call...
Tony.

Like me yesterday, started but did not idle, only when fiddling with throttle. Forgot to plug the steppermotor...

That's a good initiative, funny though the link results in a "404 page not found". Better change the link into:
Fobfix
Tony

I use the 2nd one, has an arrow for one way traffic, easy to replace and is cheap. No more reasons needed.

Thanks Richard, you finally explained the tagline. I feel free to see a connection in the next phrase, "incurring the wrath of RRTH". Maybe the one is the result of the other.
I'm just happy with this family.

If still in service. They were sold in the late '90s, ferries nrs. 23 and 24, renamed in Sound of Scalpay and Sound of Sanda.

Good to hear it all went well Marty, that first turn of the key... glorious moments. Good you took your time to work out everything without cutting corners just for peace of mind, that was my remark on a tight schedule.
All best wishes to last the engine a long time, now you know what you got.
Beautyful dashlights btw!
Tony.

Now jump over the slampanel armed with a gardenhose...

A full drain in advance will hardly prevent it from getting messy, I Always have a couple of those cheapo 5 litre cans of screenwash at hand, cut off one side and you have a perfect drainpan for small areas.

Indeed the downpipestuds are a pain, at mine some studs came out and some nuts came off but I could unbolt them after repeated soaking with penetrating oil (patience and luck).
When swapping the engine I parked it in offroad height (pull the timerrelay) and while hanging in the hoist I first removed the engine mounts, then I lowered the engine allmost onto the axle to gain access for the 4 top bellhousing bolts. Saves your skin on your knuckles.
Success, Tony.

Congratulations Marty with this beautyful engine, you have spend a great effort in it. Still jealous about the shiny new rockergear, still on my whishlist.
I see you have ran into the same problem as I did, the LPG nozzles are in the way when bolting the manifold. Trial and error for me was the fact that I had a drip of Locktite added, the wall of the the manifold is too thin to tighten the nozzles properly and on removal I snapped one nozzle so had to heat it to get the remains out.
BTW I fitted the valleygasket dry, no RTV or Hylomar, all waterways are tight and no vacuum leaks according to the MoT tester.
So, fingers crossed for sunday, personally I think it is a tight schedule but my life became slower after retirement ha ha.
Success!

dazer2000 wrote:

I have a huge scene of humor and also do paranormal investigations !

Than P38 is the right place for you! Welcome Dazer!

no10chris wrote:

looking where to get a spacer if required

I have plans to make one myself, looking for a plate of alloy of about 1 cm thick and have it skimmed both sides, then use a gasket as a template for drilling the holes. Must be doable.

Just for the record, how much out of phase they have to be?
If memory serves me right the Classic had to be fit some 90º out of phase.

Gilbertd wrote:

It amazes me that the entire drive goes through a bit of floppy tin and 4 piddly little M10 bolts.

That's the credit of the torqueconverter to let it happen smoothly, compare it the way a clutch is bolted to the flywheel of a manual shifter.