That is a huge trip, through Finland and back through Sweden/ Denmark and Germany. A former workmate did this with his camper two years ago. Funny sidenote: his son was engaged with a girl from Finland and this would be the perfect time to meet her parents. Not knowing that by the time he got to Finland his son had broken up the engagement...
I could ask him for relevant if you want me to. (About the trip, not the girl.)
I just love this forum
Thanks for the lesson Richard, I did not know that and I'm spending less time on the other side of the big lake...
A bit of a late reply, just came home from Spain and forgot to copy my password to my phone so all I could do was lurking.
What makes you find this is an early P38? I see later type fogs, wheels, inner mirror and I think headlamps so it must be at least a '99.
If not, teach me the lesson.
Gilbertd wrote:
We could even pick up riddlemethis from Dijon on the way back from central France and Ferryman from Holland on the way through to make it a really international trip..
Gentlemen, I'm honoured and count me in.
But first I want to clarify a language related item, you all know this is not my native language. I have seen the word 'loon' as related to participants for this trip. My dictionary says: loon- 1. (Scottish) fool, idiot. 2. rascal, good-for-nothing. Which one is it? 1: I'm not Scottish, up to you if that's a plus. 2: I'm too old being a rascal and good-for-nothing? I try to keep a piece of British Industrial heritage on the road so that is something. For the rest I love to participate and help anyway within my power to make any trip a success.
First we're heading to Spain for 2 weeks, by plane. We wanted to go by RR but there is this overheating problem I have to sort out first (since driving on LPG). I might need a rad, pump or fanclutch (see my other post about this) or all three. So sep 15 we will be back and sort it out. Keep me informed about heading east!
Sloth wrote:
In other news... Bosch/Thor with LPG rocker cover gasket jobs...
Unless you have the pipes installed according the 'through banana' method.
I can lift the inlethousing either side just a few centimeters to take off the rockercovers.
Mine too. When rising it first rises rear, then front followed by a final correction, first rear again, then front. Lowering to access is the other way around.
Also have corrections when standing still, it lowers an inch and corrects itself. Maybe a dead spot in the height sensors
No they don't. This afternoon I watched closely when starting up from cold and A/C on, I did the bridgetrick on the single switch and they started turning calm, removed the bridge and they stopped. After a few minutes when the A/C cooled the interior well they came on by themselves.
I heard them go fast one time for a few seconds, that was on initial try after the recharche of the system, maybe the fluid had to level through the system.
What still puzzles me, the (left I think) fan that has to come by when the engine overheats does not come by. Whatever cause it is, when the arrow of the gauge goes into red I want a fan start turning (if it is designed that way).
Hi Sloth, thanks for your reply. I switched the temp sensor with the old one (new one not until monday from dealer) just to try. Now both fans run slow (in series?), I will try to do the bridge trick with the single pressure switch and see if they go faster, this engine is getting really hot. Also will check the flow through the radiator, water poored in runs out quickly but that does not tell me if it follows the matrix or along the sides. After the weekend I'll post the result.
Thanks OB for your reply, yes the rads are free of crud, condenser is new prior to recharche (the old one had a leak) and I do not off road. Waterpump has a metal impeller, not LR but OEM I think, visually inspected it last january. When starting up from cold I can trace the temp rising in the heaterhoses within a minute so it pumps.
About the fans going parallel or not is determined by the dual pressureswitch X315 on the dryer if I understand you correctly? That one could be at fault too.
Jumpering relays is done by putting 12V to the pins 87 (87A), can I do that by pulling one at the time? I took out the relays and tested them by powering 86 and 85, they all clicked bravely.
Sorry guys for not being specific, I was a bit in a hurry. It's the condenserfans I'm talking about., interiorfans blow as they should.
Relay 18 is getting very hot, reay 13 too, maybe because it's sitting next to 18. Looking at the diagrams relay 18 should serve the compressorclutch, which works.
Relay 13 serves realay 18 which in turn serves relay 14 which powers the right condenserfan (all powerfeeds, not the induction signals). The right condenserfan should come up when A/C is on I think but doesn't.
The left condenserfan is powered by fuse 31 in the fusebox, I can not trace it further back but I think it should kick in when enginetemp gets too high but it does not.
All relaysockets look clean and no traces of Sparks, relay housings are not discoloured.
Last thing that comes to mind on this very moment, when the A/C was recharged and all worked well (that is I heard fans and was too busy with cool air coming out of the dash) I had a spare manifold on the bench preparing for LPG, with a coolant temp sensor in it. Later I switched the complete manifold when ready and left the sensor where it was, maybe this can be a faulty sensor. Tomorrow I'll go to LR and buy a new one (€26, I can handle that).
If you have any ideas please throw them up.
Tony.
The first hot day here and and the tempgauge went to max in city stop and go traffic. When makeing speed the Arrow goes back to where it belongs. A/C works fine except the two relays are too hot to touch and electric fans only turn very slow.
I remember from when I repaired the A/C and had it recharged the fans turned on a much higher speed while ambient temperature only was some 10º.
Can I start with changing the relays to see if they are at fault?
The partsstore I got them from also advised me the special LPG plugs, I guessed a tenner a plug. 'Ahem' he replied, between €24 and €32 a piece!
'But I don't sell them that many...'
Lets go for the NGK's and see how long they last. Thanks for the info Richard, I'll write down the partnumbers for future reference.
Installed the NGK's, no more hickups!
Below the Champs that came out, they fit a 3.9 Classic but not a P38. Looks like they are dipped in talcum powder, now I remember how they came in, half a year ago I changed heads and they were in already. I thought 'later', on petrol they run ok but not on LPG.
Thank you Paul for the pics. It's the middle picture lefthandcorner that is the culprit (both housings, if I grind the nut off I can slide a replacement in from the inside I think.
Thanks again, Tony.
Or ImgBurn (http://www.imgburn.com/)
It makes an image of anything round, even if it's a pancake, which in turn you can burn using the same program (or distribute it)
Now after a week of driving I notice It's missing a beat sometimes at tickover. On petrol startup (cold) aswell on LPG (warm).
Not always , just now and then. Can it be the sparkplugs that need to be a different type? Now I have the standard Champs as from the handbook, what type of sparks do you recommend on LPG?
iso burner.
Bosch live longer, all that matters is the 9mm wide wiperarm to fit on the blades and choose your own length.
Plus, besides you already have the Thor engine, it's a further free upgrade to the latest models P38! ;)
If you would be so kind... I'm not in a hurry, first off to Spain 1st september (maybe I might spot a white P38 blasting along the Autoroute).