You can't get rid of Britpart shocks almost for free. Now that's a shock (or says something about the manufacturer).

I'd say keep them on the shelf for mentioned reason, note made.

And this is a LHD, so no steeringshaft in the way. But I like your comparision with the 3 dimensional birdsnest. I like birds (not frogs).

This is how I plumbed things together, not the finest example of a neat install but it works. Indeed on advisory of Richard I plumbed it in series, I had to deal with some issues.

The vaporiser has the heaterhose in- and outlet opposite to the gasoutlet, this tube I wanted to keep as short as possible without too many bendings. This explains the waterhoses going back and forth a bit odd to the point where I adapted them (returnhose 22 in the drawing). This is a temporary setup, I'm playing with the idea to bend the steel part of pipe 22 some 90º towards the vaporiser to simplify the return from vaporiser. At first this hose kinked when hot and I used the bended part of an old gems tophose (bypasshose 14 in drawing) to overcome this, again it's temporary.

Another issue is that the vapouriser's in- and outlet are 14mm dia while the heatercore pipes are 21mm and 19mm. I worried about the flow when mounted in series. Richard told me that the internals of the heatercore are 15mm too so some restriction was there anyway. I installed the vapouriser just below the expansiontank's cap and there is no problem with airlocks. I tried the heating at max and the interior and vapouriser stay hot, well it hasn't been cold yet but I'm pretty confident.

If you're wondering about vacuum leaks I should not start at the gas injectors but at the manifold. Basic wrenching first, start with a fresh valleygasket, no need to drain all your coolant just a bit below pumpheight.

Install the gasket _by the book_that is in the right sequence and the right torque. Install manifold bolts in the right sequence and the right torque. This all seems a bit overdone but it is very important to exclude leaks afterwards, aluminium manifolds for V8 flex and stretch a lot compared to steel installs. When needed plug the LPG nozzles first and check it all in petrol mode and go from there step by step, you might borrow a compression tester to do basic testing cylinder by cylinder just to rule out as many causes as possible.

Well that's in fact what I did. The bracket for the cranksensor you can grind off a breakerblock, use a Dremel grinder, it grinds through the alumimium like a biscuit. I had this one rewelded, the dowel pin on top is in the same place.

As for the knocksensor, you need an adapterbolt that fits in the Gems thread (again a Thor breakerblock) to suit the Thor sensor.

That's all for the conversion into Thor, and of course the camshaft sprocket and sensor.

Don't want to spoil Marty's rebuild thread so it's best to continue over here.

Having read your reply Richard about the block to be relinerd you are right, I bring the block as empty as I can although I'm not certain which block it will be... (confused!).
The 46D block I had it steamcleaned this afternoon, all stripped down to a bare block:

Did also some googling for partnumbers of the casting (HRC2411) and crankshaft (HRC2684) stamped in, indeed the crank supposed to be for the 46D Gems block until '99 but there is an addition in the discription "long nose crank" which I don't understand. Then again I can pull out the present block (60D) and have that one done, then there is no problem with future orders via the VIN number or a future new owner who understands enginenumbers.
The block I can put together with new parts needed and sell. Confused what to do!

You are ahead of me Marty, as I'm still at the point of taking the 46D block apart. To have the tophats done I plan to ship it to V8 Developements, I just need to know how they want the block delivered, with or without top dowelpins, crankshaft etc.

What I want them to do is basically the liners and cambearings, the rest I (think) I can manage myself, also for financial reasons. But you are on the go, make a good job out of it!

Could it be an idea for Morat to go there and ask for a test? Won't be that expensive and it clears a lot.

Back in Spain ('89) I had this 109 Stationwagon, for MOT (ITV over there) they parked it on a sort of shaking rollerbank to check any play in steering and suspension. A real killer but if there was some play anywhere it showed up. Wonder if a thing like that still exists.

From under the car I needed a socket 13 to undo the nuts, some nuts came off, some studs came out from the upper part depending of rust.
Soaked it with penetrating oil for an hour or so, then carefully wiggling not to brake anything.

Heatshields are M6 indeed (same story).

Funny, on my phone the Def hasn't arrived yet...

Is there a Defender sneaking in???

Thank you all guys for your helpful replies (I'll print your picture Richard as a piece of Industrial art). Marty I am very curious about what you can achieve with your order, when it is within my reach I should be happy to join. That (financial) reach is the reason of doing things in my own time and tempo so I can spread it a bit, but PM me please if you have news.

My 2000 P38 has had 3 engines in my one year of ownership. The original when I bought it had a venthole in the block where connectingrod #5 had stepped out, the dipstick was turned around the camshaft. The replacement from a breaker was not the quality the guy promised it to be, it had a rattle I could not define and when I found another one for not too much money I bought it to make one good engine out of two.

The one that is in now is a 60D engine (Thor) and becomes too hot when outside temp is high with AC on, pressure of coolant is pretty high and loses some coolant.

The other engine in my garage (the one from the breaker) is a 46D block (also 4.6 for automatic) originally Gems but I had it converted to Thor (bracket for cranksensor rewelded) and swapped the other sensors, flywheel and camsprockets. The liners of cyl. 4 and 6 have lowered 1 or 2 tenth of a millimeter, so this is a matter of time that it will be trouble.

I found a shop close by that does tophatted liners, right now he is busy with a TVR block to convert and I think he does a good job.
If I give him the tophatted liners plus base gaskets he will mill my block, place them and skim the tops afterwards. Plus insert new camshaft bearings for around €400,-

The rest, main- and conrodbearings I can do myself including the obvious as new cam, tappets and so on. That gives me the feel of an engine I can trust.

But which engine will be converted? the 46D now lying around and gives me the time to do it in my own tempo, or the 60D that first has to be taken out and leaves me with no transport?
And where do I buy tops?

Any comment welcome, Tony.

Plus if you go for the later system the left to right cross-pipe which you have on the axle gets nicely tucked away between bottomplate and subframe, a pain to reach. I should stick to your original layout for accessability.

Aragorn what I understand from your pics is that your axle/pipe layout is pre 97, see big drawing below. It has pipes attached to the axletube.

The 'A' frame in the drawing is the past 97 layout and has no pipes mounted on the axletube and has the extra flexi's (5 and 6). The drawing says it is the LHD layout but it is not.

Richard promised to go underneath, he knows precise what you mean. I showed my bladder, I want to see his ha ha. (btw, I left it for 2 weeks during vacation, they did not drop one millimeter with timer removed. Only with timer they drop now and then, might be a NRV?)

Answer is given by Gilbertd, the tabs are welded to the chassis. If you want me to picture the 'in between flexihose' I'll crawl under it tomorrow.

Oh, and don't notice my perished bladders, they don't leak yet but I see it is a matter of time...

Aragorn wrote:

Hence hoping for some photos, if i can see where they attach and see if my chassis has provision for the mounting bolt etc!

Hope you don't mind it's a lefthooker, if you want close-ups I will remove the wheels for you.

Cheers, Tony

You know what it's like being banned, but a whole model range???