Sloth wrote:

Of course, that only works if your door open switch actually works too.

I've got the latches from Magic Marty, they do work...

Gilbertd wrote:

Funny that, so how come we've only got 45 members?

It's a pub after all, think about my wallet when giving a round

I bought the Locktite 7200 stuff, works great. Spray it on (foam) and leave it for 20-30 mins, then an old toothbrush (why take an old one?) and brush it all off, a broken ring for the grooves and presto. I was thinking about the dishwasher but some person in this household was against it and she did not want to go shopping again.

davew wrote:

Hope it's not Toady you are inviting Spiggy.....

Bet he's lurking anyway

Thank you Richard (and Bolt), obvious I'm not too keen with numbers...

How to handle when EKA code is needed, I've learned it inside out. What puzzles me, in the example from the owners handbook they use 4-3-2-1, or even-uneven-even-uneven.
After 4 times in lock direction you start giving in the digits.The even digits you give them in the unlock direction and the uneven digits in the lock direction.

Or must I look at it first digit unlock, second digit lock, third digit unlock and fourth digit lock direction and conclude with turning the key in unlock direction (no matter even or uneven)?

I don't dare to try it just to see what happens because my code starts with an uneven digit...

Back to topic, George you are right about the fixing position of the mechanism, I once took my driversdoor apart en when I unscrewed the torx screw you mentioned I heard something falling in the door.
It was the spacer between doorframe and actual mechanism, this is needed to provide the needed space. Without this spacer you let the screw pull to hard on the mechanism and becomes outof position.

Item 22 in the drawing, do a search inside your door to find it.

All right all right OS, we know you're moving now don't make us jealous...

They promised me a day or 10, without a ribbon I'm afraid but with a bill...

That locktite 7200 I can go for, I was a bit scary to use brass brushes (i have a dremel with a rotating brass brush), I thought it would scratch the alu piston.
Then diesel, I will give that a try. Block is at the machineshop, expect it back in a day or 10.

Thanks guys, Tony.

I'm married to a woman with powerful free moving hands, that holds me back even thinking about moving flaps (she reads minds too).

What is the best way to clean the black baked muck from pistonheads? I bought a can of carburettor cleaner but that's a spray and only works on light polluted surfaces.
I want to put the pistons upside down in a soupcan with some solvent to soak (the soup is out) and brush it off, what solvent can I take?

Tony.

One block, one new cam, one piston and two heads on it's way to the machineshop (in the missus Baby Benz).

You might be right on this, it does not seem to be red. I wiped it off a bit with a paper towel (no it is not the result of a bad functioning liver).

Which I don't understand. The seal has been replaced a few months ago, can't remember the brand but even 'blue-box' quality should last this span of time.

As for the 'hose over cable' trick, I learned that from someone on here, a rather frequent poster he is. I have no problem with a dead car while working on it but I need to go in the boot several times, it's where I store the removed bits.

I'm sure any bodyshop will have them in various sizes.

Engine out! Third time this year so I'm developing some skill in it. Decided to use this engine to be tophatted, the pressure building up and coolantloss is driving me nuts.

Pulling it apart shows waterdroplets on rear end mainbearing and cyl. 7/8 big end. Liner 7 has is slipped for about 4 tenth of a millimeter, headgasket has leaked in that area what might explain the waterloss. I think I will use the crank of the 46D engine, it has much smoother surfaces when it comes to bearings.

I already have the parts delivered from Island and LR Direct (within a week) and checked the new cam for fitment. The endfloat (axial play) is about 0.5 mm, measured with my vernier caliper but still enoug to order a new thrustplate, Rave says 0.35 mm max.

I also saw oil in the bellhousing, for sure it comes from behind the torque converter. Is there some seal in the ZF autobox I can replace at this point?

Welcome Buzz, don't be shy to tell us where you're from, after all they've accepted me too as a Dutchman (at least that's the feeling they give me). :)

Marty PM

Marty! Sorry for my late reply. Sometimes daily life forces us to plan things different, the same with me. Thank you for keeping my old lump in mind, I'm now stripping the 60D (current driver) to be relinerd, I could borrow an enginehoist and try to have it into the garage this weekend so it looks a bit like a junkyard on my driveway.
One head is off, not one slipped liner. I hope the other one is different and explains the high coolantpressure and coolantloss.
I tried to remove the head with exhaustmanifold but I cannot reach the rearmost headbolt, flange of the manifold is in the way.
A shame I have overlooked your post where you explain your schedule, you were in Amsterdam that's only 10 miles from my place we could have grabbed a pint somewhere.
After that you be off for Cannes, not too bad at all, if you have time walk around the Martinez and have a peek in their garage...

What I am missing are pics of the engine bay, this usually tells a lot about serious maintenance or if it's only a shiny outside that counts. If you are going to have a look try to get as much info as you can. (VIN or/and engine number). Let us know anyway.