Reading through the Disco 2 manual, which covers the HP24 extensively, made clear to me that the way the box behaves itself is 100% electronics and can vary from box to box.
The details are beyond my capabilities, I just copy one sentence from the manual regarding wear:

Quote:
Shift control
To provide the different driving characteristics for each mode of operation, the EAT ECU incorporates different shift
maps of throttle position/engine speed. Base shift points are derived from the appropriate shift map. When a shift is
required, the EAT ECU sends a request to the ECM for a reduction in engine torque, in order to produce a smoother
shift. The percentage of torque reduction requested varies according to the operating conditions at the time of the
request. When the EAT ECU receives confirmation of the torque reduction from the ECM, it then signals the shift
solenoid valves in the gearbox to produce the shift. To further improve shift quality, the EAT ECU also signals the
pressure regulating solenoid valve to modulate the hydraulic pressure and so control the rate of engagement and
disengagement of the brake clutches.
With time, the components in a gearbox wear and the duration of the gear shifts tends to increase, which has an
adverse effect on the brake clutches. To counteract this, the EAT ECU applies a pressure adaptation to each shift.
To calculate the adaptations, the EAT ECU monitors the pressure modulation used, and time taken, for each shift. If
a subsequent shift of the same type, in terms of throttle position and engine speed, has a longer duration, the EAT
ECU stores an adaptation for that type of shift in a volatile memory. The adaptation is then included in future pressure
calculations for that type of shift, to restore shift duration to the nominal.

Kickdown
The EAT ECU monitors the input of the throttle position sensor to determine when kickdown is required. When it
detects a kickdown situation, the EAT ECU immediately initiates a down shift provided the target gear will not cause
the engine speed limit to be exceeded.
Torque converter lock-up
The EAT ECU energises the lock-up solenoid valve to engage the lock-up clutch. Lock-up clutch operation is
dependent on throttle position, engine speed, operating mode and the range selected on the transfer box.
High range
Unique lock-up maps, similar to the shift maps, are incorporated in the economy and sport modes for all forward gears.
Engagement and disengagement of the lock-up clutch is dependent on throttle position and engine speed.
Low range
To enhance off road control, particularly when manoeuvring at low speeds, torque converter lock-up does not occur
when there is any degree of throttle opening. When the throttle is closed above a preset engine speed, the lock-up
clutch engages to provide maximum engine braking.
Increased load/reduced torque compensation
To aid performance and driveability in the high range economy mode, the EAT ECU has three adaptive shift and lockup
maps. These maps delay upshifts and torque converter lock-up similar to the sport mode if the inputs from the
engine indicate:

• A sustained high load on the engine, such as occurs when the vehicle is ascending a steep gradient or towing a
  trailer.
• A lower than normal engine torque, such as occurs at altitude or high ambient temperatures.
  The EAT ECU monitors the engine inputs and selects the most appropriate adaptive map for the prevailing conditions.
  End quote.

There is more to it than just the cable-adjustment.

BTW even not inclined to it, the whole section is an interesting read!

blueplasticsoulman is a bit special with the 'online-dot' under his username and Gordon has to set priorities wether to repair the 'oily bits' or going on with rockers...

blueplasticsoulman wrote:

yeah I can access individual messages, just not the home page.

Just the last message being posted...

The Classic (14CUX) had a (hidden) idle adjustment screw in the throttlebody, preset by factory. Don't know if the P38 Gems/Thor has something similar and if it has anything to do with the adjustment related to TPS discussed here, because idle is monitored by the ECM

Popping the plugs and turning it over means there is no disturbing noise from compression and drag on startermotor, the engine just turns smoothly apart from the hissing plugholes, that's why.
Tony.

On mine it depends of throttle position. In citiytraffic when easy pulling away it shifts a bit like your mate's, 1-2-3 to 1800 rpm and then in lockup (a bit harsh) back to 1250-1300 rpm which is about 60 km/hr.
When entering a motorway a bit firm the lock up at 4th is at 2000 rpm, say 90 km/hr and revs drop to 1700 rpm (ish).

Ask Marty, he bought for his rebuild rockers and shafts from different manufacturers I believe, which was no success (fitment rocker vs shaft vs pedestal). See to it you have it all from one maker.

I fully understand that this drives you mad. Do you have access to a ramp? I'd say run it hot, quickly remove all sparkplugs and let someone turn it over while you listen underneath. (and have look if it was the only bent tooth).
It's not much but just trying to help.

First impression is a good buy! Take one step at the time to get her on the road again, MoT has expired I believe so take your time in doing it right first time.
Sort out the surplus wiring to avoid gremlins, and a new frontscreen I believe?
Tony.

One never know what attracts people in an add. Before I had mine and was still on the hunt I saw an add on the bay of a babyblue Gems on LPG in... Italy, close to Bari.
The add gave me just to few information about the state of the car but enough to make me curious. But hey, Italy.
Until the missus pointed me at Easy jet advertising with €45 one way to Bari and said 'let's make it a weekend', after all Amsterdam airport is 20 minutes away.
On we went, the RR appeared to be a heap of crap, the owner could very well be a member of the Corleone family and got threatening mad when we walked away.
But we had a good weekend in the sun.

Gilbertd wrote:

Ideally needs 3 hands but it can be done with just two.......

Two hands from you and one from the missus? (after all it's in her interest too)

On removal you could take the heads off first, that gives you sight on what you do and where they are. Then as Gilbertd says, as soon as it's in the hoist take the enginemounts off to lower the lot.
On install it will be a complete assembly with heads on but at least you know where is what.

If you do decide to move the engine forward, what is the size of your hands? As you know the 4 topbolts of the bellhousing can be a pain to reach, once bunging in the engine hoist I should remove the engine mounts, that gives you space to lower the engine almost to the draglink and reach the topbolts more easily.
Oh, and park it up in offroad height.
Tony.

You do know your way around, I'm learning every day! The only French exotics I've ever driven was Renault Alpine, both the spartan A110 as the A310.

I've used both K-seal and Steelseal (Stealseal) as an emergency measure (had it in for a month or so). The stuff works, and that's about it. Get rid of it a.s.a.p. and repair what causes the leak. (Indeed, relinered the block)

Gilbertd wrote:

I used to be Chairman of the Matra Enthusiasts Club UK and am acting as the official support vehicle. So far only one cheeky bugger has asked what is going to be used as the support vehicle for me.......

Are you attending in this one

or this one?

Fully agree with you. With your previous articles about this subject in mind it made me torque my stretchers only 45º on final turn ha ha.
I fact it's a shame that even original LR bolts do not guarantee the desired quality on such an important matter.

I'm following this discussion with interest, on here and on the other side.
The two different methodes of torqueing are not comparable to eachother due to the different thread used by ARP (topside of stud).
Isn't it possible to find an engeneering educational institute that could perform a test between the two methodes as how many tonnes of pressure is involved by the two methodes, stretchbolts versus ARP. Find a block and a head on a scrapyard (or parts of it) before they go to the oven and let them perform the test.
At the same time you can find out by what force the threads give up.
As ARP has come with different advice I doubt they have records of such test.
Tony.

Bleed the rears, turn it around and bleed the fronts.

The service bulletin says refresh oil every 24K mls or 2 years, the filter only after the first 24K from new, after that only oilchange.
After all it's not a filter but a screen.
Our previous Benz (CLK 200 auto) even claimed to have oil "for the lifespan of the vehicle", the dipstick was sealed, only to be removed by authorized personell. Rubbish.

As for LR's choice for ZF boxes instead of US, I thought they learned their lesson with the Classic, initially it came (the autobox) with a 3 speed Chrysler Torqueflite before the ZF.