Orangebean wrote:
Assuming the water hasn't got to the BECM :)
You righthookers are in a better position then, before the level reaches BECM your feet will get wet!
Gilbertd wrote:
I bet your windows are steaming up nicely today.
A good moment to test the electric screenheater☺
Orangebean wrote:
A good session with a wet vac, pop the door sill trims so you can get some blocks of wood between carpet foam and floor and warm air blowing under there will speed things up.
Put some fluid absorbing sheets under the carpet, press the carpet down and repeat.
I've had it with a drowned BMW, amazing how much water the carpet can hold, press it as it's a sponge and buckets come out of it.
Chequebook is off! Job done (for now).
Now getting the ducts in again, well there is a tape for that, it's called ducttape!
Thanks for your input guys, blueplasticsoulman in particular for your offer.
Undo the two bonnetstays and lift it all the way up.
Take off the pollencovers, remove filters and topdeck between wipers, you get a clear sight of all the places where the pollenfilter housings can leak.
And with the vac cleaner you can clean the housing from 20 years of leafs and other muck.
The plastic casing says 7V so I took this 6V blockbattery I have and put it direct to the motor in/output and it turns both ways!
Not speedy but it turns, gave it a squirt of contactcleaner (I can see little sparks from the brushes) and put it all together.
Now the shaft moves just a bit and then it stops (together with a relay-click in RH footwell but maybe a coincidence), mayby it is because it has no signal from the heaterbox sensor (cold engine).
I'll put it all together and see what happens.
The flap moves free without any sticking.
I wonder, the lever has a hole in it, is this a fore-seeing service from LR in case you want it manually by cable?
Well finally have the time and peace to get on with the rightside blendmotor, plus I get a 'server down' error from ImgSave so had to look for another hostprovider to show pics. Let's see if it works.
Took it off the heaterbox (that topscrew took me... well you don't wanna know) and opened it.
Looks all pretty good inside, no missing teeth or broken solderjoints. The potmeter I can't say, have to measure resistance.
If I switch ign on the worm sometimes does a few turns and stops, makes no difference if I change temp or not.
Is this ok or not?
And yes plasticsoulman, I'd be very happy with yours and pay the postage, thank you for the offer.
First investigation so far is the starbordside of the cabin stays cold. When toggling the tempswitch up and down the temp stays cold.
So that's a stuck flap or a dodgy motor...
Tony.
A seized waterpump Sloth? Richard had something similar that was so noisy a few months ago.
I just don't get why the bottle cap did not open at such pressure.
Tony.
That is a very generous offer Richard, I'll PM you tomorrow if I can make it.
Our son decided this afternoon to buy a Merc as his daily driver but there has some work to be done on it.
I will discuss it tomorrow and be back asap.
Thanks again!
Tony.
Can't imagine that a pack of seals from Lidl are satisfactory. Tolerances in fitment are very close. I use one of these:
http://4x4airseals.com/product-category/landrover/rangeroverp38
That is good news, glad you sorted it out.
But what caused the bended reluctors? A faulty spacer between sensor and block? It is crucial that the lips don't have chance to touch the sensortip, there must be a few millimetres of space.
Tony.
Saw your edit: this is very helpful for the moment, I'll check that!
Thanks.
Thanks Mark, the repair section I already had a quick look at, I'll dig into the diagnosis-section.
As for EAS-V4 is a good idea, if it does what it says that should be:
Working Diagnostic Sub-Systems
Air Suspension - Read & Clear Faults
Air Suspension - Calibrate Air Suspension
Air Suspension - Air Suspension
Air Suspension - Function Tests
Air Suspension - Live Sensor Readings
Body Control Module - Customize Factory Settings
Body Control Module - Function Tests
Body Control Module - Live Sensor Readings
GEMs Engine - Read & Clear Faults
GEMs Engine - Relearn immobilizer Codes
GEMs Engine - Reset Adaptive Fuel Values
Motronic Engine - Read & Clear Faults
Motronic Engine - Reset Adaptive Fuel Values
HEVAC - Read & Clear Faults
HEVAC - Read & Function Tests
ABS Early- Read & Clear Faults
ABS Late- Read & Clear Faults
I already use the V3 version so have the cable, in fact I don't need more...
Thanks for the tip!
What diagnostics (apart from Nano and Testbook) can I use to read/reset HEVAC codes?
I've got the booksymbol since two days and can't think of any cause.
- if I manually set the functions (contact on-engine off) I can hear the blendmotors for a couple of seconds and then stop, no clicking of missing sprocket-teeth.
- The a/c has a leaky drier but still kicks in now and then, past winter I had a leaky condenser, that did not give a booksymbol. Switching a/c off makes no difference, book stays.
So I need a codereader that can reset HEVAC too, I'm not in the market for a Nano unless the lotteryman comes at the door.
Tony.
Shot in the dark, when does it stall?
if you open the throttle millimeter by millimeter does it stall too? Maybe a stuck steppermotor?
My only reference is this stainless system I had for my Classic, it gave a deep low rumble like a wooden classic boat. When revving it didn't get much louder.
Indeed no cats but I doubt it will make much difference because they are up front while the sound is composed during it's travel through the pipe.
There are also sportcats that give minimal restriction.
Once cruise is removed it's the black box that has 2 lips on top, a bit like the under bonnet fusebox. Lift them and the black box folds open like the glovecompartment, the ecu is like a cassette inside.
I like it when people are inventive! Can you record the sound to make us jealous?
BTW, there are more Audi-parts that fit a P38, a heatercore for example. Then you are entitled to feature a new badge on the tailgate:
To be completed with "quattro" if you wish :)