Oddly, the Dunlop components are interchangeable with the OE compressors and the only visible difference is the outer casting being plain alloy and not painted black. I know of one that failed, although not sure what type it was, where someone had put a new seal in it but hadn't lined the grub screw up with the flat on the shaft so it started to spin. When I put them together I always screw the grub screw in partly so it will only go on if it lines up with the flat.
1 and 8 look to be running rich and there doesn't appear to be much consistency amongst the others either. I'm still intrigued by the pop that caused it all to start as I can't think of anything that would go pop then affect running like this.
Pressing the inhibit button won't stop it if you have any slight leaks or if it is parked on uneven ground so it self levels. Take the timer relay out from under the LH seat when not in use to stop it trying to self level.
You'll need to let the pressure out first (although cutting the pipes will let it out pretty quick anyway). Cut the pipes squarely with a sharp Stanley knife then chamfer the ends with a pencil sharpener.
How? You'd have to disconnect at least one end.
Sounds like the pump is worn out, as said, you need at least 100psi before there's enough pressure to lift the weight of the car but the system runs at around 150psi.
The cables that plod ran in on mine when they installed the aux battery are attached to the inside of the RH chassis rail. Admittedly, the drilled holes in the boot floor to bring them up into the RH corner and the aux battery was fitted there.
You can get the rubber bladders for the air springs on a Classic as separate items but I've never seen them for a P38.
I've know the crank bearing break up on a Dunlop pump too.
I was thinking the opposite, shame the LPG filler is where it is. Mine is mounted where the second towbar electrical plug would go if I had twin electrics, convenient to get to and I can fill up from either side of the pump.
Step by step is in RAVE.
Unless you want them to be impossible to remove, yes, you need to deflate them but pushing the collet in and pulling the pipe out will do that. Suggest you put it on low height first so it doesn't plummet to the floor.
It is easier to remove the liner but by pulling it out and jamming something in to hold it out means you can get in there to release the top clips.
Fronts are OK and difficulty varies depending on whether you remove the liner or work around it. Bottom clip can put up a bit of a fight getting it out. Rears are often jammed in at the top and the clip will often break off as it will have rusted into place. If you don't want to keep them, a 1" wood chisel slid in between chassis rail and body and given a good clout with a mallet will chop the top off the plastic so the air spring just drops out.
What non-OE parts? Genuine Dunlop springs are around £50 a corner.
It's a good idea to trim a mm or so off the ends of the pipes as per RAVE. They will have a groove worn in them from teh old O rings so by trimming the end, the new O rings will be bearing on clean pipe. A squirt of Fairy Liquid/Water mix will help the pipes slide in easier and will also show if you have any leaks.
Ooh, blue ferrule connectors, they WILL leak, they always do. I use these https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/pneumatic-straight-tube-to-tube-adaptors/0812106/ and https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/pneumatic-tee-tube-to-tube-adaptors/0812083/ rated at 20 bar, so twice the maximum pressure you'll get in the EAS and never had one leak yet. I'll admit I'm not a great fan of connecting it all up and leaving it there as the additional joints increase the chances of a leak. Hence why I keep the valves in the boot so I can fit them if and when needed.
If it was a blend motor, chances are the book would pop up just after you switch the ignition on. If you turn the ignition on and listen carefully, you will hear the blend motors being driven from one end of their travel to the other. If an error is logged, the book will appear immediately. If it is an AC clutch issue, then the book will appear when it tries, and fails, to engage the AC compressor clutch. If you start the car then press the AC OFF button, it will not try to engage the AC compressor clutch so if it is that causing the book to appear it won't, it will remain off.
That will at least give you a couple of things to check.
I've a set of those in the boot. Never had to use them but with them and an electric tyre pump I've always got a get me home method should I need it.
Hmm, that's a bit of a bugger. Now you've taken it apart I suspect you'll have difficulty claiming on the warranty. But without taking apart you wouldn't know it had failed......
Not as a buffer but as a supply to run your extras from. Think about it, if you try to pull 200A to run your winch from the vehicle battery, you'll flatten it in no time meaning you won't be able to start the car. If you try to do the same with the engine running you will be drawing more than the alternator can supply (either 100, 120 or 150A depending on which alternator you have) so could burn out the alternator. So have a second battery, charged through a split charge unit when the car is running but disconnected when not. Use that to power your winch with the engine switched off so it isn't connected to the vehicle battery, but if it starts to go flat, disconnect the winch, start the engine and run that for a while to put some juice back into the secondary battery.
+2, without diagnostics to see what it is that is bringing the book on, you can spend weeks chasing your tail. You need to read the fault and it will tell you immediately if it is blend motors, blowers, AC clutch, etc then deal with the fault. Everything (except the recirculate flaps) feedback to the HEVAC so it is detecting a fault somewhere but you need to know where.
That looks more like you forced the sleeve on when you replaced the seal. You have to put it on at an angle, push it right down then twist it. Twist it too soon and it nips the seal.
If you'd fitted remoulds or some Far Eastern no name tyres, I could understand them needing that amount of weight, but not with immaculate wheels and decent branded tyres. Looks like they understand balancing wheels as much as they understand re-gassing an AC system......