It can be replaced but it is inside the back of the compressor motor, between the brushes and is a real pain to change. I've seen one where someone has drilled and tapped the back plate on the motor and bolted it on the outside, seemed to work OK.
Most definitely yes, second hand ones are likely to work. Chinese ones work but give the wrong readings so the fuel trims go all over the place.
By the way, your car is the wrong colour for the grille........
The black wire is a ground, does the other end make it's way to the connection to the Orange wire on the compressor? I suspect it probably does in which case the thermal cut out on the compressor may well have failed. There's a thermal switch in the back of the compressor motor which is normally grounded but goes open circuit if the compressor gets too hot. It should go short circuit again once it cools down and the ECU then allows the compressor to run again. However, sometimes they got open circuit and stay that way so the compressor will never be ordered to run. By grounding the Orange wire the ECU thinks the thermal switch is short circuit so orders the compressor to run. It may be that the switch has failed or the compressor was getting very hot and kept cutting out and someone decided to bypass the thermal switch so it ran no matter how hot it got.
The screenful of faults means that you don't have a proper connection. On the top left of the screen you should have a green box with Good Idle shown in it. If that is red and no Good Idle shown, any faults read will be complete garbage.
No advantage at all as you've a smaller contact area and, as you say, easier to round off nuts. I don't think I've ever seen 12 point impact sockets to be perfectly honest, especially not in big sizes like that.
You're 7 hours ahead of us so it could be a very late night for you George. The last one was at 9:30 pm UK time, so 6:30 in Australia and mid afternoon in the US. With your time difference you'd be looking at very early in the morning or very late at night depending on how you look at it.
By bending the ducting out of the way, it's only thin and bends fairly easily.
Lemforder drag link and track rod end from Island 4x4, Lemforder supply LR (and BMW) so are OE and not expensive. To test the swivel ball joints you need to try to lift the hub up to check for play in them.
You could try Woolies, they will mix the dye for you. Only problem is you need to send them a sample to mix the colour.
https://www.woolies-trim.co.uk/category/117/leather-renovation
10 minutes. Drop the knee panel, snip the tie wraps holding the loom trunking, 4 screws, pull it out.
Not sure what you mean by type 2 but the standard size is 29.1" diameter whereas yours are 30.6". So obviously the extra 1.7" makes them too big to fit in the hole.
All the standard sizes, 235/70 x 16, 255/65 x 16 and 255/55 x 18 all have the same diameter.
Bolt wrote:
Can you get the gps to read out road speed?
Not that I know of, I would expect it to be in the GPS reception screen if anywhere. Otherwise you'd need to use a stand alone sat nav or GPS on a smartphone.
My missus reckons I've got so much random crap floating around in my head I should go on 'Who wants to be a Millionaire' and make use of it. Problem is, they'd never ask questions on the sort of stuff I know about.....
Harv wrote:
I suppose you could unplug the airbag. You'd have to live with the SRS light.
Not if you took the bulbs out as well.....
If you have the instrument panel surround out and the instruments unscrewed, you can move it over enough to see what the distribution motor is doing. The Ascot suddenly started showing the book and Nano told me that was the distribution motor. Had a look and found it was tight at one end of the travel. Not feeling like pulling the dash out at that particular moment, I gave the spindle a squirt of silicone spray where it enters the heater box, worked it back and forth a few times, put the motor back on and it's worked perfectly ever since.
If it was sticking I'd expect to see the book as it wouldn't be able to travel over the full range when it does it's self test. If it has been calibrated with it unable to manage full travel, it will think everything is fine even though it isn't moving all the way.
Coiled pipe is normal on the copper feed line from tank to front as it allows the pipe to flex without risking it snapping off due to metal fatigue.
When you started it with the temperature sensor wires shorted, was it on a cold engine or did you warm it up on petrol first? It will run like a dog on LPG when cold. The system piggy backs off the petrol ECU so follows the fuelling strategy of that. A cold engine needs a richer mixture and higher idle speed (cold start enrichment, what used to be achieved by pulling the choke out) when on petrol but doesn't on LPG, so if cold the mixture will be stupidly rich and the idle high.
Distribution motor, top one on the RHS accessible through the hole where the instrument cluster lives. It's either jamming part way through the travel or needs calibrating. Have you got the book showing on the HEVAC?
Sounds like it might be dual fuelling so running on gas and petrol on some cylinders. Probably down to some shitty wiring by Profess.