That's the easy fix, it gets slightly more difficult when it has split at the brake pedal switch or where it goes through the bulkhead. Even then, the hardest part is getting it through the grommet in the bulkhead and standing on your head in the footwell connecting it to the switch. But no matter which, it's still a simple enough job.

Looks good. About the only difference I can see is that the OE one will fit even if the cubby is half full of assorted bits and pieces, as long as nothing is higher than the front edge, whereas yours needs the cubby to be empty, or at least almost empty as it sits down inside it rather than on the top of the front edge. The way you've done it means the cans are going to be further out from the dash but I don't suppose that will make too much difference. Unless you were to move the left side one out quite a lot, it'll still obscure the clock so I think it's something that people would need to live with. Original also has 70mm ID on the holders so about right. Ideal size for a full size can (not one of the skinny Red Bull cans) and a Costa coffee cup.

Tried Googling the part number and got no hits so just checked mine, it should be LRN32685. What have to done on the underside so it can't slip out, the same as the original? Putting sides on it is a good idea although I tend to only use mine when I've actually got a drink to put in it. It annoys me that with a can in there it obscures either the EAS height or the clock depending on what side hole I use.

Here's my OE one

Bought as new old stock from an eBay seller in the US, cost about £18 all in.

I use line in on the Ascot (Clarion with the line in added) and the ex-plod when I'm out of the country. Ex-plod has a DAB radio in it (with line in as standard) but DAB doesn't work as soon as you leave the UK, so I have a tablet I use to stream audio through the line in. Quality is actually better than DAB as most DAB stations are in mono but the stream from the same station is in stereo.

What's wrong with just looking at http://new.lrcat.com/, all models up to 2015.

Most likely. Right hand airbag will be the one in the seat, if it was the steering wheel one it will say Drivers airbag fault.

If you've got the earlier Clarion, it's dead easy and works perfectly, detects an audio input and fades it in while fading out whatever source you've got selected. If you've got the later Alpine head unit, it isn't so easy. If your CD is dead then you could always connect to that so selecting CD will give you line in instead.

If they were rubber under the stainless, then they were cheap, pretty, replacements. The genuine Goodridge is PTFE tube so the only thing that can fail is the connections to the ends.

Originally there was a pair of connectors next to the bulkhead lower down before the pipes connect to the long ones that run to the back of the car. They can be seen easily with the RH front inner wheelarch liner out. They are the only joins that should be there. After that they are clipped to the underside before disappearing above the fuel tank and various other bits and pieces. There's a good diagram of where they run in RAVE even though it is wrong and shows a pic of a RHD car but says it is for LHD and vice versa.

Sounds good to me. I've got a brand new one sitting in a box waiting to be fitted. There's nothing wrong with the one that is in there except with running on LPG and always keeping roughly 1/4 tank of petrol in there, it has worn out the gauge sender track at that point. One day it will read 1/4, another day a bit higher, sometimes empty, other times the dash will beep at me and say Fuel Gauge Fault and read nothing (presumably when it sees an open circuit). Problem is, I have no idea of exactly how much petrol is in the tank, it could be half full for all I know......

There's no power to the system when the ignition is off so turning the ignition off and waiting 15 mins is no different to disconnecting the battery and waiting 15 mins. I've worked on SRS systems on both the P38, a couple of Mercs and a Renault and never managed to set off an airbag yet.

Although I had the sticky orange dust from the headlining after the AC compressor had decided that driving through France with an ambient temperature in the mid-30s was a good time to stop working. Travelling at 75-80 mph with all the windows open pulled the loose edge from under the tailgate rubber and filled the car with orange dust.

Sounds much like mine for the first 18 months to 2 years after I bought it. Do everything (properly), then just use it.

Yes, leave the airbag, just the drop the glovebox. Feedback pot is inside the blend motor and tells the HEVAC what position the motor is at. I assumed you were going to take it to bits and see if it can be mended

Drop the glovebox out, either bend the ducting or cut it and put it back with duct tape, and you can drop it out without going any further. Sometimes they can be fixed with a squirt of contact cleaner in the feedback pot and working it back and forth. When putting it back together make sure the arrows on the cogs line up.

The existing pipes run down the RH side of the car so one of them has to get over to the other side at least. I assume running them in before the tank was fitted was easier when they were building the car. The routing on the early cars was even stranger with a pair of hoses in the centre between the body and the rear diff then pipes running along the axle. If you are making up your own lines then where you run them is up to you. That's what has been done on most cars now where the long runs have rotted so Kunifer has been run between point A and point B with various routings in between. Before you ask, the fittings are all Metric.

It's knackered......

Braided brake hose kits are available, https://www.merlinmotorsport.co.uk/s/goodridge/goodridge-brake-hose-kits/brake-hose-kits-car/range-rover or, if you wanted to go the whole hog and replace the full lengths with braided, just buy the hose and end fittings https://www.merlinmotorsport.co.uk/s/goodridge/goodridge-600-series-brake-clutch-hose-fittings and make them up yourself (although not sure you'd be able to get the end fittings for the callipers with the strange lump on the end to stop them from being able to twist). I've got a 1990 Maserati Biturbo Spyder and the hoses for that are NLA so bought the hose and fittings and made them up. A lot easier than I thought it would be.

No, it's a potentiometer used as a potential divider. The actual resistance is pretty irrelevant, it's the difference between one reading at one end of the scale and the other.

See David's tests here https://rangerovers.pub/topic/503-2002-vogue-se-restoration-thread?page=7 (post 131), it appears that the resistance of the track is around 2 kOhms, so that is what you should measure between the end two contacts. Between one of the end ones and the middle, at one end of the travel, you should be seeing a low figure (200 Ohms was quoted in that thread), progressively rising as you move through the travel up to close to the 2 kOhms.

Unless you are getting something like this, it's fubar.