You've got 3 road speed outputs from the BeCM to various things but it should be the same signal on them all. Road speed to the speedo comes from pin 16 (Yellow wire) on C256 (16 pin, white connector), road speed to the HEVAC is from pin 10 (also Yellow) on C255 (20 way white connector and to the Cruise Control ECU from pin 20 (again Yellow) on C255. These are all 0V to Vbatt square waves at 8000 pulses per mile and, according to the BeCM SID, you should see roughly 2.5V DC wrt ground (when moving) if tested with a standard multimeter. Obviously if using a scope, you will see a 12V square wave increasing in frequency with speed. The Road Speed signal from the ABS ECU goes to pin 11 (Yellow/Green wire this time) on C114 (20 pin green connector). Use the one going to the speedo to test first as you know that one is working and you can compare that with what you see on the others.
For the sake of a couple of quid, while you've got access, replace them. RAVE says to lubricate with anti freeze rather than try to seal them with silicone. They work by allowing the two pipes to move in relation to the matrix so they need to be soft. Usually when you take them out they have gone square section and brittle. I replaced mine not long after I got the car and it's still fine after 10 years and 200k miles. I've replaced O rings (as a matter of course on any car I've worked on unless I know they've been done recently) and blend motors on various cars at least 10 times but I've never taken a dash out.....
Leolito has one that he's going to send me. Or at least he's checking on postage to make sure it isn't going to be too expensive. This is what mine looks like at the moment.....
It isn't the signal directly from the sensors, it's a stream of pulses generated by the ABS ECU at a rate of 8000 pulses per mile. The same pulses drive the speedo and feeds the engine ECU (although quite why the engine ECU needs to know how fast you are going, I've no idea) and are a 12V PWM signal.
You'll know when it's on, the light on the switch will be on and nothing will happen when you take your foot off the throttle.
No.....
That's the connector from the ECU to the driver pack, not the one between the driver pack and the valve block. However, that is where you do the initial test for the driver pack.
Connect 12V to pins 12 and 13 (using a standard 6.3 mm spade terminal you can connect to both pins at once) and ground to pins 10 and 11. Then apply 12v to pins 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, and 8. When you put power to any of them, you should hear the relevant solenoid click. As you have a reported problem on the Front Right, the most important one is pin 4. If the solenoid doesn't click when you put power onto pin 4, then you need to check the connection between the driver pack and the valve block. That's the pink wire on pin 8, check for weak tension on the connector.
Test it then.....
There's two behind there, the one you've pictured and a second 8 way one. The 8 way carries audio from the head unit to the speakers.
Where was that one? Behind the LH kick panel? If it is, the White/Black has nowt to do with EAS wiring, but quite a few of the others do. Although they carry data between the ECU and the switch, so highly unlikely to cause the fault you have. You need to pull the valve block out and check the connector between the valve block and the driver pack.
Depends who made them, some have a hex hole in the end, some have two flats some don't have anything.
This https://drive.google.com/file/d/0BzxqPPypF5J5b1ZlU3RpMmVwanc/view?usp=sharing is an upload of an iso image file of the original UK factory CD. Download the iso file and burn it to a CD and it will run from that (run the RAVE.exe file). Or, do as I have, copy the entire CD to your hard drive and run from there, which you'll find loads and runs much quicker.
Show it then..... Right Click and select either Copy or Copy Link Location. Difference between my P38 and their Defenders or Discos is I can cruise at 75-80 mph and get out 1,000 miles later needing nothing more than a coffee.
Today, went to the shops in it and opened the bonnet. Coolant level, not dropped, oil level, not dropped, closed the bonnet again.
However, on Thursday, I drove it to Dover, got on a ferry and found I'm not the only nutter that drives to the Continent in what some consider to be one of the most unreliable vehicles you can buy. Drove off the ferry to find myself 3 cars behind a Classic (M900 something, don't remember the rest). Fully loaded, roof rack with a pair of spare wheels, small box trailer piled high and the interior of the car full too. He headed off towards Lille while I was heading towards Paris so after a bit of light flashing and waving, we went our separate ways.
Friday, arrived at Morat's parents in rural, Central France, loaded a 1932 Austin 7 onto the Ifor Williams CT115 trailer I was dragging behind me and set off back towards Calais. Weather slowed progress a bit due to flooded roads around Paris (didn't bother me but everyone else seemed scared of puddles more than a couple of inches deep) but finally arrived at Calais to be told the weather had screwed up the ferry timetables so I had to wait a couple of hours for the next boat.
Saturday, took the Austin 7 up to North Yorkshire, dropped it off and headed back home again.
Looking here, https://rangerovers.pub/topic/1945-got-there, I hit 400,000 miles on the 21st August and I'm now up to this.......
If I carry on at this rate, I can hit half a million in about a year and a half......
They look near new compared to some I've changed....
Does sound a bit odd. When cold idle will be around 950 rpm but will progressively drop to the 650 or so once it starts to warm up. That'll usually happen long before the temp gauge starts to even move though. Idle air valve maybe?
Absolutely correct Brian. If the BeCM doesn't see an N or P signal from the XYZ switch, it won't energise the starter relay. Although he said that it eventually did start and didn't go into gearbox fault until later. Admittedly they could both be connected and without the experience to tie the two things in together it's easy to assume more than one fault. A bit like the car my mate in France bought. No interior lights and suspension not dropping at speed but you'd need to know a P38 before putting the blame for a suspension fault on a dodgy microswitch in a door latch.
No start and no faults suggests CPS, no gear display and gearbox fault showing is likely to be XYZ switch. Both pretty standard on a car that has been neglected. Took me nearly 2 years before I trusted mine further than I could throw it. Now I just get in it and drive it. Hit 400k a month ago, now showing 406k and setting off for another 2,000 miles tomorrow morning......
That was an easy one then.
I've got a want. I could do with a LH front fog light (early style), as mine has a stone chip (or bullet) hole in it and is filling up with rainwater......