Yes, just the same as the valve block and air springs, O ring + O ring + collett.
If the sunroof mechanism is broke so it doesn't close properly, a common way of stopping it from constantly saying Sunroof Not Set is to tell the BeCM that the sunroof isn't fitted, then it doesn't check to see if it is set or not. That's the same bloke that does the dodgy aftermarket keys. There's two people I would trust to work on a BeCM and he isn't one of them.....
How close is closer, there's quite a few people with a Nanocom scattered around the country.
Certainly looking that way. Who did you send it to? If you get another one cloned, make sure you note the details from the old one on the label. Sunroof fitted/not fitted is something that a Nanocom can change.
If you probe it while plugged in and find a ground signal there all the time, that will 100% confirm that the ground is within the BeCM.
Are they the cheap ones that DavidAll bought that broke when he tried to fit them? Or the ones that dhallworth bought that had glitches throughout the travel? I'd go OE for anything that can give grief when hundreds of miles from home https://www.lrdirect.com/ANR4686-Front-Sensor-New-Rr-Air-Suspensio/
Gilbertd wrote:
That's what this https://rangerovers.pub/topic/1372-handy-downloads thread is for.......
Just checked, why is the onedrive link there empty? Anyone know what happened to the stuff that was uploaded?
Yes. If the ECU tells a corner to move and it doesn't see a change from the height sensor within a certain time, it assumes the valve is stuck rather than that it's getting duff information from the sensor.
It's the round thing that sits behind the EAS box with a cable going to the throttle body.
No, a pull up resistor won't make any difference. If you've checked all 3 and are getting the correct readings, then it is the BeCM interpreting them incorrectly even though the circuitry to drive the leds next to the gear lever is getting them right. Speak to Marty......
That's reading correctly then, 11.45 Ohms when closed but 1. would suggest open (presume your meter reads 1. when the leads are connected to nothing?). That would suggest a problem in the BeCM. Might be worth having a chat with Marty (www.p38webshop.co.uk), he's the BeCM expert.
Check the resistance to ground at pin 8 of C626 then.
Ahh, raspberry jam grease, good stuff. My tin must be at least 35 years old and still half full....
That's what this https://rangerovers.pub/topic/1372-handy-downloads thread is for.......
Yes but the High and Low have nothing to do with the gearbox or position, that is the motor in the transfer case. That's working as it should, in Low it will always display Lo and the gear you have selected (except your not displaying gears), in High it will display Hi for a few seconds then that goes out and it just displays the gear you are in.
What lights are you saying it doesn't put on in N or D? Reversing lights? If that is the case, as you've already worked out, it puts the reversing lights on when the X line is grounded, irrespective of what state the Y and Z line are in. If X line is grounded and the others are working as they should, P, R, 3 and 2, will display correctly, while D and N won't display anything (hence the select neutral warning when you use the range change) and 1 will display as 2. Are you sure the leds next to the gearlever are all displaying correctly in every gear or only some of them?
AC drain is a conical rubber thing directly above the XYZ switch in the floor of the car. If your breather is still attached it won't have been water dropping into the switch though. If the BeCM is not seeing the correct gear positions it will tell you to select neutral when you try to change range as it is thinking you aren't in neutral even when you are. When you select Low, the lights next to the gearlever will flash and at the same time the range light on the dash will flash, it will beep in time with the flashing and after 3 or 4 flashes, it will select low and display that on the dash. The same should happen when you select High. So it sounds like you can select low and high ratios in the transfer case but for some reason the gear position from the gearbox isn't displaying correctly.
Do you have a multimeter and know how to use it? If you do, probe the connection at pin 8 of C626 and measure the resistance to ground. When gears where the X line should be open circuit (N and D) are selected, you should get no reading (infinity or OL depending on the meter), whenever any of the other gears are selected you should see minimal resistance to ground. If you get a reading in N or D, it is quite likely that the BeCM is seeing sufficient ground to think the switch is closed but not enough for the lights next to the gearlever to respond. I would think there is a pull up resistor in the BeCM so it detects a positive ground signal rather than a floating signal and that may be where the fault lies. In that case, I would try connecting a 10k Ohm resistor between the X line and a battery feed. That would ensure it only responds to a full ground signal and not a high resistance floating signal.
leolito wrote:
- permanently it means you are forced to use it every time FOREVER unless you fix whatever is making it happen! :-)
Not necessarily. If you lock with the fob then unlock with the key, you need to enter the EKA. If you subsequently lock with the key and unlock with the key, you still need to enter the EKA every time. However, if you lock with the key, then unlock with the key, you don't need to enter the EKA. Equally, if it is in a state where it needs the EKA every time you unlock it, if you then enter the EKA with a Nanocom, after that you can lock and unlock with the key and it won't ask for the EKA. Turning EKA off in the BeCM doesn't, as many seem to think, mean it won't need it, it means, assuming it was programmed with an EKA originally, if it still needs it it just doesn't ask for it.
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I always use these to join any pipes https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/pneumatic-straight-tube-to-tube-adaptors/0812106/, rated at 20 bar and never had one leak yet. Cheaper and not as bulky as the genuine LR ones either.
Section around the rear window is one piece and is glued on, so it stayed there. The same for the D post covers, two or three screws that you can see with the tailgate open but the rest appeared to be glued and that also didn't want to come off so it stayed there and was masked. Same for the strips along the roof, I wasn't even going to attempt to get them off. Took the wheel arch liners out too so they could paint right up to the edges of the wings.
Electrical Troubleshooting Manual in RAVE