Braided brake hose kits are available, https://www.merlinmotorsport.co.uk/s/goodridge/goodridge-brake-hose-kits/brake-hose-kits-car/range-rover or, if you wanted to go the whole hog and replace the full lengths with braided, just buy the hose and end fittings https://www.merlinmotorsport.co.uk/s/goodridge/goodridge-600-series-brake-clutch-hose-fittings and make them up yourself (although not sure you'd be able to get the end fittings for the callipers with the strange lump on the end to stop them from being able to twist). I've got a 1990 Maserati Biturbo Spyder and the hoses for that are NLA so bought the hose and fittings and made them up. A lot easier than I thought it would be.
No, it's a potentiometer used as a potential divider. The actual resistance is pretty irrelevant, it's the difference between one reading at one end of the scale and the other.
See David's tests here https://rangerovers.pub/topic/503-2002-vogue-se-restoration-thread?page=7 (post 131), it appears that the resistance of the track is around 2 kOhms, so that is what you should measure between the end two contacts. Between one of the end ones and the middle, at one end of the travel, you should be seeing a low figure (200 Ohms was quoted in that thread), progressively rising as you move through the travel up to close to the 2 kOhms.
Unless you are getting something like this, it's fubar.
Left and right is always as sitting in the drivers seat, so yes, you've got that right. If it goes open circuit, that will be the cause of your fault. You'll always see a reading from the two end pins and it won't change. That is measuring the resistance of the track from end to end. From one end to the middle pin, you should see 0 Ohms or very low at one end of the travel and almost the same as the full resistance of the track at the other end.
I reinstated one that still had the air springs but individual Schrader valves to pump each corner up in turn and found the rocker switch on the dash had been unplugged as well.
Yes, just the same as the valve block and air springs, O ring + O ring + collett.
If the sunroof mechanism is broke so it doesn't close properly, a common way of stopping it from constantly saying Sunroof Not Set is to tell the BeCM that the sunroof isn't fitted, then it doesn't check to see if it is set or not. That's the same bloke that does the dodgy aftermarket keys. There's two people I would trust to work on a BeCM and he isn't one of them.....
How close is closer, there's quite a few people with a Nanocom scattered around the country.
Certainly looking that way. Who did you send it to? If you get another one cloned, make sure you note the details from the old one on the label. Sunroof fitted/not fitted is something that a Nanocom can change.
If you probe it while plugged in and find a ground signal there all the time, that will 100% confirm that the ground is within the BeCM.
Are they the cheap ones that DavidAll bought that broke when he tried to fit them? Or the ones that dhallworth bought that had glitches throughout the travel? I'd go OE for anything that can give grief when hundreds of miles from home https://www.lrdirect.com/ANR4686-Front-Sensor-New-Rr-Air-Suspensio/
Gilbertd wrote:
That's what this https://rangerovers.pub/topic/1372-handy-downloads thread is for.......
Just checked, why is the onedrive link there empty? Anyone know what happened to the stuff that was uploaded?
Yes. If the ECU tells a corner to move and it doesn't see a change from the height sensor within a certain time, it assumes the valve is stuck rather than that it's getting duff information from the sensor.
It's the round thing that sits behind the EAS box with a cable going to the throttle body.
No, a pull up resistor won't make any difference. If you've checked all 3 and are getting the correct readings, then it is the BeCM interpreting them incorrectly even though the circuitry to drive the leds next to the gear lever is getting them right. Speak to Marty......
That's reading correctly then, 11.45 Ohms when closed but 1. would suggest open (presume your meter reads 1. when the leads are connected to nothing?). That would suggest a problem in the BeCM. Might be worth having a chat with Marty (www.p38webshop.co.uk), he's the BeCM expert.
Check the resistance to ground at pin 8 of C626 then.
Ahh, raspberry jam grease, good stuff. My tin must be at least 35 years old and still half full....
That's what this https://rangerovers.pub/topic/1372-handy-downloads thread is for.......
Yes but the High and Low have nothing to do with the gearbox or position, that is the motor in the transfer case. That's working as it should, in Low it will always display Lo and the gear you have selected (except your not displaying gears), in High it will display Hi for a few seconds then that goes out and it just displays the gear you are in.
What lights are you saying it doesn't put on in N or D? Reversing lights? If that is the case, as you've already worked out, it puts the reversing lights on when the X line is grounded, irrespective of what state the Y and Z line are in. If X line is grounded and the others are working as they should, P, R, 3 and 2, will display correctly, while D and N won't display anything (hence the select neutral warning when you use the range change) and 1 will display as 2. Are you sure the leds next to the gearlever are all displaying correctly in every gear or only some of them?