Don is spot on. Turn ignition on with anything disconnected on a pre-99 car and the fault stays until it is reset with diagnostics. Post-99 resets itself as soon as the fault is cleared.

Or just hang a couple of these in place of the bulbs https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/panel-mount-fixed-resistors/1311254/

Doesn't look like it as reversing lights are not part of the test for a car first used before 1 September 2009. Doesn't mean the tester won't comment on it though, some of them like to make the rules up as they go along rather than follow the manual. If you want to get rid of the warning, you could always connect a couple of bulbs, paint them black and hang them down behind the cluster. They'll still come on but you won't be able to see them.

Doesn't look like it to me, https://www.gov.uk/guidance/mot-inspection-manual-for-private-passenger-and-light-commercial-vehicles/4-lamps-reflectors-and-electrical-equipment, section 4.6. It would on anything later than 2009 though.

I've had a tester (not my usual one) who told me he wasn't able to test it as the ABS light was staying on as he drove it very slowly onto the ramp. His boss, my usual tester, then educated him. However, as a P38 is permanent 4 wheel drive, it can't be tested on a rolling road brake tester and has to be done with the deccelerometer in the footwell. So he can't have done much of a brake test if he did it below 5 mph......

The BMW one that Leo is using doesn't have the extra spigot on the bottom for the TBH return, so would be a direct swap on a diesel as it also doesn't have that spigot. The other difference is the angle the main spigot comes out at. On the P38 (both V8 and diesel versions) it is angled forwards whereas the BMW one comes out straight which, on a RHD car, might make it awkward fitting the hose due to the ABS modulator being there. I'd be more inclined to drill and bond a fitting in place so the BMW sensor can be fitted to a P38 header tank or drill and fit another spigot for the TBH return rather than Tee'ing into the radiator bleed return.

I've used both, silicone hose and copper pipe. With silicone ideally you want the thinner wall, single reinforced but it is difficult to get hold of (ASH were the main suppliers but they seem to only have it in stock very rarely). 8mm LPG copper pipe can be a bit stiff as it is fairly thick wall, whereas domestic air conditioning copper pipe (3/8" OD) has a thinner wall so is easier to work with. Quite why the LPG pipe has a thicker wall I've no idea as it is unlikely to ever exceed 10 bar pressure yet a domestic AC system using R410a or R32 refrigerant runs at 25 bar and is tested to 37.5 bar for leak testing.

Not having looked closely at the options, I'd only consider a header that has the same connections as existing. The hose from the bleed nipple on the top of the radiator goes in between the O rings on the cap whereas the return from the Throttle Body Heater goes directly into the bottom of the tank with no restriction. Isn't there a BMW item that is identical except for having the level sensor?

Marty (www.p38webshop.co.uk) but he is about to go to New Zealand for work so won't be around from next week onwards or Callrova (https://callrova.com/range-rover-p38/) in Brighton.

Vogue was popping the message up when you used the brakes but, as you say, no faults logged when checked with the Nano. Brakes didn't feel right either but I only noticed it because they weren't as good as mine but without another car to compare with you could think they were fine.

Part number, EWR100560LNF, Source, JLR themselves https://parts.jaguarlandroverclassic.com/ewr100560lnf-cover-front-seat-height-adjustment-valance.html

Had this recently on the Vogue. Bled the brakes from start to finish as per RAVE and it doesn't do it any more. Brakes are a lot better too.

Canoe paintwork looks a bit flat anyway, why not give it a respray so they really do match?

The MG latches are the same as the P38 latches as long as you have the one with the pigtail with a 6 way and 2 way (with only one way used) connection and not the later one with a single larger connector. I know the MG LHD, Left hand latch is the same but not sure about the RH one. MG latches only have one microswitch in the passenger side latch rather than the 3 that both front latches have on the P38.

Classic sign of a worn out feedback pot, it will stick at one end of the travel or the other. When mine started to do it, it was the drivers side. It always decided to stick on hot in the summer and cold in the winter.....

Sounds like the one you have isn't working so it's got to be worth a try.

It won't move if the HEVAC isn't seeing a feedback signal. As it doesn't know what position it is in it won't try to move it.

Line in is very simple on the Clarion (see http://www.stockholmviews.com/p38/index.html#clarion, although I solder to the pins on the back of the pcb and not onto the plug as shown there)) and once you have the line in it's easy to add a Bluetooth module to that. I've done the line in mod on the Clarion in the Ascot but didn't want to keep mine original (as original for police spec was no radio at all) so I've got a Kenwood Bluetooth enabled DAB radio in there.

The 5 wires to the blend motor are, Black, Brown (connected to the motor), White (wiper on the feedback pot), Red/Black (one end of feedback pot), Grey (other end of feedback pot). This are the 5 that come from the HEVAC and if you look at the plug that goes into the HEVAC you'll see 3 of each colour, each set going to one blend motor (left and right temperature and distribution).

Large motor behind the glovebox is the passenger side blower. If that doesn't start it will also cause the book symbol and needing a thump means it is either binding on something or the commutator or brushes are worn out.

Blimey, you staying in the UK? That's a hell of a move to be 750 miles away.

That would be easy but the problem is that nobody has one. It's the same on all Biturbo models of that era and there's a specialist breaker who has a number of cars. That bush is missing on every one he has. I don't think it is going to be rubber or anything like that as it fits into the bracket and the column rotates in it. If it was rubber then I doubt it would crack and fall out either! I've got some Nylon left over from making my EAS calibration blocks and my son-in-law has a woodworking lathe so was going to see if we could make something that would do the job but it's a bit of a problem not knowing what it should look like.

I'll make some more enquiries and see if I can find someone that has one who is willing to let it out of there sight for a while.