There's the collett and two O rings inside, just the same as in the valve block or one of the air springs. You can pull the collett out and hook the O rings out with the LR approved crotchet hook (always amuses me that LR assume you'll have a crotchet hook and a pencil sharpener in your toolbox when working on the EAS). If it blew out, I suspect it wasn't pushed fully home.

Brake pedal on a P38 will feel different to a conventional braking system as you are opening a valve rather than pushing a piston.

I never said it wasn't easy, just that it almost certainly won't just work first time you fire it up. The mechanical side is pretty simple, hardest part was getting the coil springs compressed enough to get them out, after that it was just a case of fitting the air springs and connecting everything up. Then we fired it up and nothing happened......

Did similar on a 94 Classic LSE last year. Check the valve block for leaks (even if, or especially, if you have rebuilt it), make sure any wiring bodges have been removed, .make sure you have diagnostics that connect and work and cross fingers, toes, arms, legs and anything else you can think of crossing.

That will sync the fob but won't work while the engine is disabled, it needs the EKA entering either with the key or by a Nanocom or similar.

If it is just saying push remote and not enter code as well, EKA has been disabled in the BeCM but it needs it. The fob will need to be resynced but you can't sync it while the engine is disabled. If on coils, EAS Manual is normal and should go out after a few seconds. Do you have the EKA code for it? T plate says UK, where in the UK are you?

I'm not even going to comment on how shiny everything looks. The only bits that look anything like that on mine are bits I've just replaced, and they don't stay that way for long as I keep driving around in it (hit 408k today so that's 8k miles in 6 weeks.....).

1. Not necessary as long as you have a decent battery.
2. Yes, you depressurise it with the ignition off anyway, although it might be a good idea if you disconnect the ABS pump before doing 1 above or you'll have to depressurise it again.
3. It's a fully powered braking system with a hydrostatic back up. Pressure bleeding kit won't help, you MUST follow the process to the letter.
4. Unless it has gone into hard fault for any reason, which it won't have done if it was working before you took it to bits, it will run the compressor, fill the reservoir and rise up from the bumpstops.

Split pipes. They perish and split at the ends. Look at the Tee behind the actuator and see if they are split there, otherwise it'll have split where it passes through the bulkhead to the brake pedal switch.

Be careful, someone might buy it!

Might be a good idea. When we did the Vogue there was lots of air in the rear circuit at the bleed nipple at the modulator. That may have been because it was left dribbling out when the other rear calliper and hose was changed so when it was bled at the calliper it only got rid of the air at the rear end. If you don't allow it to drain out, it may be OK.

The Vogue that me and a mate are resurrecting had had one of the rear callipers changed before we got it and a new replacement (along with a disc and pads) for the other side was in the boot. I picked it up and drove it over to my mates place and the brakes were pretty iffy. Lots of pedal travel, not much stopping power and the ABS and Traction Failure warning came up on the dash the first time the brakes were used. I fitted the other disc and calliper and bled both rears. Brakes were no better. So we bled the whole system from start to finish and the brakes are now as they should be. So I think I can safely say the answer to your question, is no they can't be.

You've got 3 road speed outputs from the BeCM to various things but it should be the same signal on them all. Road speed to the speedo comes from pin 16 (Yellow wire) on C256 (16 pin, white connector), road speed to the HEVAC is from pin 10 (also Yellow) on C255 (20 way white connector and to the Cruise Control ECU from pin 20 (again Yellow) on C255. These are all 0V to Vbatt square waves at 8000 pulses per mile and, according to the BeCM SID, you should see roughly 2.5V DC wrt ground (when moving) if tested with a standard multimeter. Obviously if using a scope, you will see a 12V square wave increasing in frequency with speed. The Road Speed signal from the ABS ECU goes to pin 11 (Yellow/Green wire this time) on C114 (20 pin green connector). Use the one going to the speedo to test first as you know that one is working and you can compare that with what you see on the others.

For the sake of a couple of quid, while you've got access, replace them. RAVE says to lubricate with anti freeze rather than try to seal them with silicone. They work by allowing the two pipes to move in relation to the matrix so they need to be soft. Usually when you take them out they have gone square section and brittle. I replaced mine not long after I got the car and it's still fine after 10 years and 200k miles. I've replaced O rings (as a matter of course on any car I've worked on unless I know they've been done recently) and blend motors on various cars at least 10 times but I've never taken a dash out.....

Leolito has one that he's going to send me. Or at least he's checking on postage to make sure it isn't going to be too expensive. This is what mine looks like at the moment.....

It isn't the signal directly from the sensors, it's a stream of pulses generated by the ABS ECU at a rate of 8000 pulses per mile. The same pulses drive the speedo and feeds the engine ECU (although quite why the engine ECU needs to know how fast you are going, I've no idea) and are a 12V PWM signal.

You'll know when it's on, the light on the switch will be on and nothing will happen when you take your foot off the throttle.

No.....

That's the connector from the ECU to the driver pack, not the one between the driver pack and the valve block. However, that is where you do the initial test for the driver pack.

Connect 12V to pins 12 and 13 (using a standard 6.3 mm spade terminal you can connect to both pins at once) and ground to pins 10 and 11. Then apply 12v to pins 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, and 8. When you put power to any of them, you should hear the relevant solenoid click. As you have a reported problem on the Front Right, the most important one is pin 4. If the solenoid doesn't click when you put power onto pin 4, then you need to check the connection between the driver pack and the valve block. That's the pink wire on pin 8, check for weak tension on the connector.

Test it then.....

There's two behind there, the one you've pictured and a second 8 way one. The 8 way carries audio from the head unit to the speakers.