Harv wrote:
I suppose you could unplug the airbag. You'd have to live with the SRS light.
Not if you took the bulbs out as well.....
If you have the instrument panel surround out and the instruments unscrewed, you can move it over enough to see what the distribution motor is doing. The Ascot suddenly started showing the book and Nano told me that was the distribution motor. Had a look and found it was tight at one end of the travel. Not feeling like pulling the dash out at that particular moment, I gave the spindle a squirt of silicone spray where it enters the heater box, worked it back and forth a few times, put the motor back on and it's worked perfectly ever since.
If it was sticking I'd expect to see the book as it wouldn't be able to travel over the full range when it does it's self test. If it has been calibrated with it unable to manage full travel, it will think everything is fine even though it isn't moving all the way.
Coiled pipe is normal on the copper feed line from tank to front as it allows the pipe to flex without risking it snapping off due to metal fatigue.
When you started it with the temperature sensor wires shorted, was it on a cold engine or did you warm it up on petrol first? It will run like a dog on LPG when cold. The system piggy backs off the petrol ECU so follows the fuelling strategy of that. A cold engine needs a richer mixture and higher idle speed (cold start enrichment, what used to be achieved by pulling the choke out) when on petrol but doesn't on LPG, so if cold the mixture will be stupidly rich and the idle high.
Distribution motor, top one on the RHS accessible through the hole where the instrument cluster lives. It's either jamming part way through the travel or needs calibrating. Have you got the book showing on the HEVAC?
Sounds like it might be dual fuelling so running on gas and petrol on some cylinders. Probably down to some shitty wiring by Profess.
Certainly looks that way, try changing it and see what happens. You can always change it back.
The only mention of the speedo I've seen on the Nano is the one under the ABS diagnostics, never seen it anywhere else. Might be different on one with the Thor licence, I've only got GEMS and diesel on mine.
Can't help at all on the factory GPS, never owned a P38 new enough to have one.
RAVE probably won't tell you as it is a workshop manual not a parts manual. The rubber trims that go along the top of the doors and down the A pillars are:
ALR6938 - SEAL ASSY A POST / HEADER RH and
ALR6939 - SEAL ASSY A POST / HEADER LH
Most places show them as no longer available except for JLR Classic who show them as out of stock
https://parts.jaguarlandroverclassic.com/alr6939-seal-assembly-a-post-header.html
Police spec cars were ordered in whatever spec and with whatever options the particular force wanted. Most were white but some were blue, most had the base model cloth interior but some had the leather. It may well be that if a vehicle was needed in a hurry a standard production one would have been bought and modified after purchase. But a car with Lowline BeCM, cloth seats, no reverse dip (you only got that with the electric memory seats anyway) and simply badged as 4.0 could well have been an unmarked car. Marked wouldn't have any badging on the tailgate as that would have been covered in reflective chevrons. Only one extra aerial would seem to back that up, mine had the cabling above the headlining for 2 additional aerials (which would have been a UHF local pocketphone channel and a VHF force wide channel) where they had removed the aerials and poked the bases through before filling the holes along with 4 more holes where the light bar had been attached. I've got the useful options, front fogs, headlamp wash/wipe and AC but the cloth interior from a base model, no cruise control or trip computer, no radio from the factory and low line speaker install (which I've since upgraded to mid line spec). I've got a pushbutton very neatly fitted onto the blank where the sunroof switch would be if it had a sunroof and the odd hole here and there where things have been fitted inside. There's also a 120A split charge relay under the bonnet and two cables running to the offside boot for an aux battery and some mods to the tailgate wiring which I suspect allowed you to lock the car but still leave it possible to open the tailgate. But best of all, It's still got the big spray stopper mudflaps!
To calibrate the speedo you first need to know how far out it is, by how much and in what way by comparing the speedo reading against a sat nav. The GPS on the sat nav will only be 100% accurate when travelling at a constant speed on a flat, straight piece of road.
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If you have a GEMS and a Nanocom that makes it very easy as in the ABS menu (ABS- Diagnostic-Utilities-Speedo) there is a setting that causes the speedo to read around 50 mph (Nanocom documentation says it will make the speedo read 100 mph but on all that I've tried it on it reads about 50 mph). So you can set that, make a mental note of what it reads, drive holding your speed at that same point and compare what the speedo says against the GPS. Then you have your baseline figures so can adjust from there.
Take the instrument cluster out, break the yellow paper seals so you can remove the translucent plastic over (which will also mean unplugging the speaker) and look along the top of the circuit board you'll see a row of trimmer pots on each side. The ones you need are marked VR3 and VR4.
VR4 deals with Offset and adjusts the reading by the same amount over the full range. So if it permanently reads 5mph over, then you adjust that with VR4. VR3 deals with slope so if it reads OK at 20 mph but the error gets progressively greater the faster you go, adjust the slope until it is correct over the full range. With the instrument cluster surround out, the cluster itself in place but not screwed in and the translucent over partly loose, you can get in there with a very short trimming tool (I used the screwdriver bit from a set of the interchangeable bits) but be careful as you only need to give the pots a tiny bit of movement (many years of tuning radio transmitters for maximum power means I've got pretty good at it).
If you feel like having a play while you are in there, VR1 deals with the Temp gauge reading, VR2 the fuel gauge reading while VR5 and 6 do the same as 3 and 4 but on the rev counter (can't remember which is which though but you have the same offset and slope adjustments on those two).
I tend to put a good dollop of RTV in each end, shove the triangular bits into the gaps, lay the gasket in and put the metal bit in place with the bolt finger tight. The bolt holes in the gasket don't line up at that point but then when the manifold is lowered into place that pushes everything down so the holes do line up.
Plenty to choose from here https://tinleytech.co.uk/product-category/lpg-parts/electrical/temperature-senders/
7J should be fine. My car is on 7J x 16 wheels (which were an option on early base spec cars and obviously ordered by plod) and the standard tyre size is 235/70 x 16 which gives the same rolling circumference as 255/65 x 16 and 255/55 x 18 if fitted with 8J 16 or 18 inch wheels.
No, the knurled thumbscrew is the bit you screw in to close off the gas outlet, the bit you remove is the bit sticking out facing towards you where the solenoid coil was. You tried removing the manual valve so would have emptied the tank if you'd left it long enough. Bear in mind that 1 litre of liquid becomes 270 litres of vapour so you would have filled your farm.....
Had you asked in another 6 months time we'd all have known how you spent lockdown.....
Can't help, my daughter is older than a P38 so never had need to fit one.
What sensor on top of the reducer? Can't see one in the pictures, only the inlet solenoid and filter housing. Temp sensor may be screwed into one of the bolt holes holding the two parts together, small, brass with a couple of thin, usually orange, wires coming from it.
and the gasket sits on top of the seal but under the metal thing. Your picture seems to show the gasket over the top.
The triangular bit on the end of the seal should push down between the top of the block and the head. From your photo it looks like it isn't seated properly. I put the ends in first and push them down then push the rest into place.
Resistances sound about right. Try putting 12V on them and see if they go clack.
Profess......
HaHaHaHaHa, it's never worked properly then.......