Don't fit poly bushes to a P38, they are either crap or wear out in no time (or both). OE rubber are cheaper and better but you need a press to fit them. If you are taking wheels off, axle stands under the axle and it doesn't really matter what height the air suspension is at. I changed the exhaust, including dropping the crossmember to change the Y section, with it on the ground on high.

As to your faults,
Shocks, Boge were original but Boge rears are no longer available so Boge front and, dare I say it, Britpart rear (they are cheap, easy to replace and have a 2 year warranty if they don't last).
Handling may be down to the shocks but more likely ball joints. These are the top and bottom ones that the hub swivels on, cheap to get replacements but you ideally need the proper press tool for pushing the old ones out and new ones in. Often missed on the MoT as you need to get the wheel off the ground then try to lift it with a crowbar under the wheel.
Sunroof is easy enough to drop the motor off by dropping the interior light. If you can hear the motor turn but nothing happens then likely the cable. Not an easy repair, better to get a complete unit from a breaker.
Brake pipes do rust, the two that run from front to back and a couple of little short ones on either side at the rear (assuming post 97), easy enough to make up new ones in Kunifer although you'll need a crows foot spanner to get to the upper unions on the little rear ones.
Book on the HEVAC needs diagnostics to see what the problem is but even if it is blend motors, no need to take the dash out, you can get at them with the instrument cluster out and the glovebox dropped.
Again, diagnostics needed to see why the SRS light is on. If post 2000 could well be a connector under one of the seats, just unplug every Yellow connector you find and give it a squirt of contact cleaner, 2000 and on had side airbags so have connector under the seats, earlier cars didn't but there is a connector under the dash on each side that will benefit from contact cleaner. On a later car the SRS light will go out once the fault is cleared, earlier ones need diagnostics to reset it.
Rear arches and front lip of the bonnet are about the only places you will notice corrosion on a P38 as they are both steel but not not structural and pretty normal on many.
If it is a later car with the DSP amp, it may well have died (as they do) and been swapped for one from a Discovery 2 which works but only on the front doors.
No gas in the air con system could well be the cause of the book symbol on the HEVAC as it will detect that the compressor clutch isn't engaging when told to as the circuit goes via a pressure switch. If you poke the AC Off button on the HEVAC it won't try to engage the clutch so you won't get the book showing.

You haven't got anything there that isn't normal for a P38 that hasn't been looked after by someone that understands them and they are the ones that don't get sold. Whenever a car is being sold there is usually a reason for it and in the case of a P38 it's because the seller has been told it's going to cost him lots of money because he doesn't do it himself and has to pay someone else to do the work.

The pressure switch is also used on some Saabs, no idea if the pump is the same though. The one on a Classic is very similar except for the mounting points so probably the same innerds. I pulled mine apart after it burnt out and it doesn't look the sort of thing that can be repaired easily..

Arnotts do that, Dunlops don't. In 10 years and almost 200k miles, my car has never dropped to the bumpstops unless I've told it to.

Unless I'm going to be doing a lot of work and just need to get under it to have a look or do a quick job, I just put the suspension on high and get under there. The suspension has never just dropped to the bumpstops while parked any other time so why would it do it while I'm under it? Worse case, the body will drop but unless the tyres suddenly go flat at the same time, the axles will still be the same height above the floor. If you are really worried about it dropping on you, put the suspension on high then put a jack under the towbar and another under the crossmember just in front of the radiator.

I've checked by simply taking the brake calliper and carrier off, unplugging the ABS sensor then removing the 6 bolts that hold the hub in place. Pull the whole lot out with half shaft, ABS sensor and brake disc. You can then spin the bearing to check it in under half an hour.

That's why it isn't worth trying to replace the bearings, just replace the complete hub unit.

+1 on cotton, or a couple of very small croc clips.

Is the tightness in the bearing or the diff? The only way you can really check the bearings is with the hub and half shaft off the car.

That's how you do it but it seems to give problems for a lot of people for some reason. It can be a bit of a pain to have to upload the image to imgur or similar and then link to them rather just uploading directly. It's one of the upgrades to the site Gordon intends doing when he get round to it.

Being narrower I wouldn't expect them to foul the wheelarch other than maybe hitting the plastic inner wing when at Access height. Looking at mine, there's easily over an inch of clearance front and rear of the tyres to the bodywork (might get a bit close to the mudflaps though) so they shouldn't touch anything at standard or motorway height.

From https://tiresize.com/tyre-size-calculator/

This gives you the overall diameters so you will be able to get your tape measure out, check it at different heights and see when/if they are going to foul against anything.

How long is a piece of string? The CVC cars were 50 that were pre-production press demonstrators (known as CVC as they were all registered as MxxxCVC) and came in every trim spec and engine variant that was going (including at least one in full police livery) to be available when released to the public. They are rare and I suspect a number of the original 50 have been scrapped over the years by people not realising the relevance. David's will most certainly be concourse when finished, absolutely everything has been done on it.

Maximum torque, on a GEMS anyway, is around 2500-3000 (https://www.automobile-catalog.com/curve/1997/1398590/range_rover_4_6_hse.html) which is why you get better economy at 70-80 mph than at lower speeds as the engine is running at it's most efficient. There's naff all below 2,000 rpm though.

Tuning a P38 is different to tuning the same engine in something like a Morgan. We don't need more power at the top end and a high revving engine, we need the grunt low down.

Agreed David, beautiful job

Re-covering knowledge https://www.martrim.co.uk/car-trimming-supplies/headlining-kit-tutorial.php

leolito wrote:

If you lock the car - or the BeCM on the test bench and the alarm , then "open/unlock" but without the key but from the inside door latch, does the alarm goes off and the car is disarmed?

No, the alarm is triggered and the immobiliser stays on. If the car is locked with the key, it needs to see a signal from both the keyswitch and CDL switch to tell the BeCM that the car has been unlocked with the key. If you leave a window open and unlock it with the sill button, it sees the CDL switch operating but not the keyswitch so thinks you are trying to steal it.

The orangy decayed foam is definitely sticky. When we had the headlining session at Marty's workshop, my better half was doing shell cleaning duties. She ended up with 1" platform soles on her trainers which then picked up every piece of gravel in the yard when she emerged from the workshop.

We decided to do mine when we were driving back from the south of France. It was drooping a bit at the back but not too bad. However, the AC compressor clutch was well worn so the air gap was too big meaning it didn't always kick in when it should so we opened the windows. The breeze inside the car caused the headlining material to be pulled from the tailgate rubber and the whole car filled with sticky orange dust within about 2 seconds. It took forever to clean it all out of everywhere.

Only problem is that the D1 didn't have air con. We had one at work from new ('93, 200TDi with twin sunroofs). On a hot day you are driving a mobile greenhouse.....

We did mine, the first time we'd tackled a headlining, with just the two of us but had to rope step daughter in so there was two people to hold it up and a third to smooth it down. I used a small foam headed paint roller.

Errm, who was it that was on trimming duty when we had our mass headlining session at Marty's workshop?