Electrical Troubleshooting Manual in RAVE

Neither do I, the ETM tells you where everything is except the splices in the loom.....

While the rest of it was away being sprayed, all the trims were laid out on the floor and sprayed with bumper black. Hardest part of putting it back together was the plates on the sides of the back bumper. They went in with the car to be sprayed but were a real bugger to get back on properly for some reason. Don't scrub up too badly for a 408k mile car does it?

No idea if the timer could be swapped but on the Classic I did we had about 5 goes at it. The valve block had been rebuilt but a couple of the tiny, thin O rings around the base of the solenoid spindles had slipped out of there groove so were leaking. I don't have any Tees, I just have a set of Schrader valves that I keep in the boot that can be fitted should I ever need them. With one of them and a short length of pipe, you can check for leaks before putting the valve block in the car. A couple of seconds run with an electric tyre pump will get the pressure up to around 100 psi and by watching the gauge you can see if it holds pressure or drops. Then, once you are satisfied it is holding it, energise the solenoid to ensure it releases it. Checking it on the car isn't as bad on a P38 as it's reasonably accessible but on a Classic where it lives in a steel box bolted to the chassis rail, it's a real pain to keep taking it out and putting it back. The free EASUnlock works with the Classic if you make up the cable and change the serial port data rate to 4800 baud.

The other problem we found was the air springs being used were new old stock which had obviously been stored somewhere damp so the alloy ends had corroded meaning they leaked where the bladder joined the alloy ends. Classic compressor is identical to the P38 compressor except for the top of the chamber which has a tapped hole in it. You can either drill and tap a P38 top or use a P38 compressor with the Classic top.

If the LED next to the gearlever is correct, that suggests the XYZ switch is OK as it drives them as well as supplying data to the BeCM to display the selected gear on the dash. Could be that the X line is grounded somewhere between the splice (S610) and the BeCM pin 8 on C626 (Blue/Black wire).

Pull them, they are clipped on. Take the stainless treads out from the door openings and it's pretty obvious. RAVE tells you how to remove all the others. This is mine when it came back from being sprayed (except I refitted the mirrors, indicators and rear lights before driving it home, then fitted the rest once it was there).

and shortly afterwards....

Whenever you take any of the pipes out, RAVE says to trim 1mm off the end of the pipe and chamfer it with a pencil sharpener. That way the groove that has been put in the end of the pipe by the O rings will be in a different place. Be careful when pulling the collett out, they are fairly fragile and need to be pulled out perpendicular.

Before expecting it to work, test the valve block. With a short length of 6mm nylon pipe, one of the emergency inflation Schrader valves and a tyre pump, you can check each of the 4 outputs to make sure they are sealing. Pressurise each one in turn and make sure it holds pressure, then open the corresponding solenoid which will check that the valve is opening, the valves will open and release the pressure. This also checks that the driver pack is good.

Use the connector from the ECU to the driver pack, not the one between the driver pack and the valve block, as an initial test for the valve block and driver pack.

Connect 12V to pins 12 and 13 (using a standard 6.3 mm spade terminal you can connect to both pins at once) and ground to pins 10 and 11. Then apply 12v to pins 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, and 8. When you put power to any of them, you should hear the relevant solenoid click and pressure will be released. If the solenoid doesn't click when you put power onto a pin, then you need to check the connection between the driver pack and the valve block. Check for weak tension in the connector.

There's the collett and two O rings inside, just the same as in the valve block or one of the air springs. You can pull the collett out and hook the O rings out with the LR approved crotchet hook (always amuses me that LR assume you'll have a crotchet hook and a pencil sharpener in your toolbox when working on the EAS). If it blew out, I suspect it wasn't pushed fully home.

Brake pedal on a P38 will feel different to a conventional braking system as you are opening a valve rather than pushing a piston.

I never said it wasn't easy, just that it almost certainly won't just work first time you fire it up. The mechanical side is pretty simple, hardest part was getting the coil springs compressed enough to get them out, after that it was just a case of fitting the air springs and connecting everything up. Then we fired it up and nothing happened......

Did similar on a 94 Classic LSE last year. Check the valve block for leaks (even if, or especially, if you have rebuilt it), make sure any wiring bodges have been removed, .make sure you have diagnostics that connect and work and cross fingers, toes, arms, legs and anything else you can think of crossing.

That will sync the fob but won't work while the engine is disabled, it needs the EKA entering either with the key or by a Nanocom or similar.

If it is just saying push remote and not enter code as well, EKA has been disabled in the BeCM but it needs it. The fob will need to be resynced but you can't sync it while the engine is disabled. If on coils, EAS Manual is normal and should go out after a few seconds. Do you have the EKA code for it? T plate says UK, where in the UK are you?

I'm not even going to comment on how shiny everything looks. The only bits that look anything like that on mine are bits I've just replaced, and they don't stay that way for long as I keep driving around in it (hit 408k today so that's 8k miles in 6 weeks.....).

1. Not necessary as long as you have a decent battery.
2. Yes, you depressurise it with the ignition off anyway, although it might be a good idea if you disconnect the ABS pump before doing 1 above or you'll have to depressurise it again.
3. It's a fully powered braking system with a hydrostatic back up. Pressure bleeding kit won't help, you MUST follow the process to the letter.
4. Unless it has gone into hard fault for any reason, which it won't have done if it was working before you took it to bits, it will run the compressor, fill the reservoir and rise up from the bumpstops.

Split pipes. They perish and split at the ends. Look at the Tee behind the actuator and see if they are split there, otherwise it'll have split where it passes through the bulkhead to the brake pedal switch.

Be careful, someone might buy it!

Might be a good idea. When we did the Vogue there was lots of air in the rear circuit at the bleed nipple at the modulator. That may have been because it was left dribbling out when the other rear calliper and hose was changed so when it was bled at the calliper it only got rid of the air at the rear end. If you don't allow it to drain out, it may be OK.

The Vogue that me and a mate are resurrecting had had one of the rear callipers changed before we got it and a new replacement (along with a disc and pads) for the other side was in the boot. I picked it up and drove it over to my mates place and the brakes were pretty iffy. Lots of pedal travel, not much stopping power and the ABS and Traction Failure warning came up on the dash the first time the brakes were used. I fitted the other disc and calliper and bled both rears. Brakes were no better. So we bled the whole system from start to finish and the brakes are now as they should be. So I think I can safely say the answer to your question, is no they can't be.

You've got 3 road speed outputs from the BeCM to various things but it should be the same signal on them all. Road speed to the speedo comes from pin 16 (Yellow wire) on C256 (16 pin, white connector), road speed to the HEVAC is from pin 10 (also Yellow) on C255 (20 way white connector and to the Cruise Control ECU from pin 20 (again Yellow) on C255. These are all 0V to Vbatt square waves at 8000 pulses per mile and, according to the BeCM SID, you should see roughly 2.5V DC wrt ground (when moving) if tested with a standard multimeter. Obviously if using a scope, you will see a 12V square wave increasing in frequency with speed. The Road Speed signal from the ABS ECU goes to pin 11 (Yellow/Green wire this time) on C114 (20 pin green connector). Use the one going to the speedo to test first as you know that one is working and you can compare that with what you see on the others.