Wiring goes directly to the ECU, so you can't blame the multiway connector for that one. If you disconnect the arm and put an Ohm meter across one of the outer pins and the centre one and you'll find there's a dead spot in it, probably around the standard or motorway height position.
That's the only way to do it and the hardest part is opening the little tabs on the sun visor clips to get to the screw underneath without breaking the tab off. Sliding panel is easy enough once the glass is off (4 Torx screws) and you wouldn't do the rest without doing that too.
It's £72 for the kit from Martrim and with 3 people it's easy to do. In fact, I'd rather do the headlining than remove the numerous screws and clips to take it out. Have a look at this https://www.martrim.co.uk/car-trimming-supplies/headlining-kit-tutorial.php
Try swapping the plugs over to confirm it is a dead pump and not a wiring problem.
Yes it can, or it can be accessed from underneath. Rear washer pump is the one nearest the outside of the car with the black plug. If you find the pump is working but no water getting to the back, there's a non-return valve that goes non-return in both directions under the LH rear parcel shelf.
Because I edited your post so the picture appeared rather than just a link.
You would have seen your text, then the image link within the img in square brackets, then the rest of the text. I removed the img bits, then cut the link and pasted it into the popup box.
Delete the img commands before and after it, so all you have is a link starting with https and ending with .jpg. Click on the insert image box along the top (where you have, from left to right, Bold, Italic, Heading, Link and Image) and a box will pop up. Paste the link address in that box (making sure you overwrite the https that is already in there), click OK and a string of text will appear in your post, ignore that and when you click Reply to send your post, the picture will appear. You can click the Preview button before posting to check that you got it right (and click it again to go back to editing mode).
If you click the edit button on your post, you'll see what I have done so the picture appears.
Blimey, a bloke who does what his wife tells him! that would be Gordonjcp who runs this site and works in Hamilton. Welcome along, most of us on here have been there and done it so when something stops working, you'll find someone who can help.
Michelin Latitudes and Pirelli Scorpions were what was fitted as standard from the factory (depending on what they had kicking around at the time), so you won't go far wrong with either of them.
The K-Seal we get here (but made in USA) comes in an 8 fl oz blue plastic bottle and has a coppery colour. According to their website, it has fibres that block the hole and tiny copper particles to fill the gaps between the fibres. It is usually that which can be seen in the header tank looking like it has been sprayed with copper coloured metalflake paint.
Not sure what SR had in his radiator, or how much Steel Seal had been used. Sodium Silicate usually just makes the coolant slightly cloudy and if any is spilled anywhere it dries as a whitish powder. Never seen it solidify like that, although there are warnings that it isn't compatible with OAT anti-freeze, only Ethylene Glycol, so maybe it was mixed with something it shouldn't be mixed with?
Sloth wrote:
On most modern normal cars the compressor runs all the time now
and, unfortunately, last no more than about 5 years......
Because of the amount of current they'd draw. It isn't noticeable on a P38 because even at idle there's plenty of torque available to turn the compressor and the ECU is given a signal from the HEVAC to open the IACV to keep the revs stable when it engages (stick the Nano on and look at the idle air valve opening and watch what happens when the compressor engages). On my daughter's 1.8 litre Toyota Celica, you can hear the revs drop when it engages and she only uses it when she really has to as the fuel gauge plummets too.
No doubt someone will come up with an electric compressor sooner or later just like quite a number of cars now have electric power steering. The modern DC Inverter, heat pump domestic systems are very efficient, giving 3kW of heating or cooling for 600-700W of electrical input so it wouldn't surprise me if someone starts putting a similar system (the components are the same, compressor, condenser, evaporator, refrigerant it's just the electronic control that is different) in a car. Could do away with the conventional heater running off the cars cooling system too. So you'd be buggered trying to find heater hoses to plumb an LPG system into.......
K-Seal will work on some leaks while others need Steel Seal (or plain ordinary Sodium Silicate, Steel Seal without a dye in it), it just depends on where the leak is. They are the only two I would consider using but the downside with K-Seal is the tell tale copper residue on the underside of the coolant cap. A dead giveaway if you are sell a car.......
It's odd how they go. All of mine on the ex-plod are fine yet the left side rear one on the Ascot is bubbling nicely even though the others have no bubbling at all. Finding a car in a breaker (if you can) and removing it yourself has got to be much cheaper than a specialist P38 breaker who knows what they cost.
If you replace it then make sure the oil is in it when you put it on. Was over at my mates yesterday working on a P38 and he'd got a couple of customers booked in to have their AC re-gassed at his house rather than mobile. First one wasn't a problem but the second one passed the pressure test no problem but still wouldn't cool as the compressor clutch wasn't engaging. Turned out that the compressor was seized solid and I suspect the thermal cut-out had done it's job and cut the power. Owner then admitted it had last been gassed about 2 years ago and at that time had needed a new compressor. Recovered the gas, took one of the pipes off and it was completely dry inside suggesting whoever had replaced the compressor hadn't put any oil in it hence it had seized.
Listed by Brit Car and LRDirect, but not cheap......
Google the part number (CGE101280 for the right side).
Vac won't draw the oil out, only air, and when the gas leaks you might get a tiny bit of oil come out with it but it will only be a very small proportion of what is in there. So what is in there will stay there unless it has been drained out. Your system takes 180 ml so maybe they could put 20-30 ml in just to be sure (unless you fancy taking the compressor off and draining it all out).