I use the mylpg.eu site and POI file. It's far easier to find LPG abroad than it is here. Stations are a bit thin on the ground in Holland but everywhere else there must be one every couple of miles, Poland, Lithuania and Latvia have LPG only stations as well as LPG at normal petrol filling stations (although in Lithuania it's called Ducos and Gaze in Latvia). Every German services appears to have LPG and then there are the Autohof areas just off the Autobahn that aren't signposted so you'll see a sign saying the next services are in 50kms, but an Autohof a couple of miles down the road.

Correction, pipes look like they've never been out. The grooves are where the O rings sit which is why RAVE says to trim 1mm off the end then chamfer with a pencil sharpener so the O rings bear on a smooth part of the pipe. Driver packs are always that colour.

I've used Britpart non-critical parts so door fasteners should be OK. I could have bought a set of Britpart front brake calliper seals for £3, but when you can get TRW ones for £6, why risk it? I've got a Britpart washer nozzle and even that doesn't work properly, instead of two nice jets of water it sprays water all over the place......

No so much preemptive (or preventative maintenance is the term we would normally use), but catching things before they become serious enough to stop the car. So on top of routine maintenance I'm always aware that a lot of the bits I'm relying on are 22 years old and getting worn. Hence carrying quite a few 'mission critical' spares when I do a long trip (starter motor, alternator, crank position sensor, set of ignition coils and leads). The sort of thing that are straightforward enough to change at the side of the road but would stop me dead if they failed.

Possibly, try pulling the timer relay. Although that doesn't explain why it only sleeps when you are in it.

LPG would only draw power if it's faulty but you can pull the fuses to make sure. Only sleeping if you are in it doesn't make any sense. What is different if you are in it or not?

Don't forget, that's miles too, so not far short of 650,000 kms......

BeCM will go to sleep exactly 2 minutes after it sees the last input. So if you get in and close the door, interior lights go off but the LED next to the gearchange will still be glowing dimly until the 2 minutes is up and then it goes out. That shows the BeCM is asleep and current draw should be down to under 20mA. If it's higher than that, something else is still powered up.

Problem is when they are charging by the hour, it'll probably cost more in labour to do a rebuild properly than the cost of a secondhand valve block. It isn't the usual mechanic type work either, it doesn't involve big sockets and breaker bars.

What were you using it for? http://new.lrcat.com/#!/1234 is the online parts list.

They will if everything is done properly. If you look after the car it will look after you and don't ignore any little noises or feelings that something isn't right, deal with it before it becomes serious.

and don't use Britpart bits.....

Never heard of them, I always use the X8R seals, https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/RANGE-ROVER-P38-EAS-AIR-SUSPENSION-VALVE-BLOCK-O-RING-DIAPHRAGM-REPAIR-FIX-KIT/321451232414

What O ring kit did you get? It does sound like they could be iffy.

I suppose the worst is it will clog up with dust from the dryer. In theory there shouldn't be any dust but every valve block I've taken apart has had white dust in it from the desiccant.

Dunno, but they always say to put them in dry.

It's this one that can often leak when you do a rebuild.

Working from the back of the car, on the top you have the diaphragm valve, Left Rear, Front Right, Inlet Valve, Exhaust Valve while on the underside you have Right Rear at the back and Left Front next to the relief valve and pressure switch.

The ones that can cause problems are the very thin ones around the base of the plungers. They should be assembled dry though.....

I don't think a 5 pin will fit but a 4 pin will. What that does is stop the EAS from waking up every so often and self levelling as it will only be powered up while the ignition is on. It also stops diagnostics from connecting.

It's self levelling. When parked it will always lower the other 3 corners to match the lowest one. This is why people say to take the timer relay out as that causes it to self level every 6 hours or so. So if you have a leak on one corner, by the time it has been left overnight, it is down on it's knees. With the timer relay out, only the corner with the leak drops so you know which one it is. There's some small, very thin, O rings on the valve block that go round the base of the solenoid spindle and these can pop out of their grooves when you put it together. That will cause it to drop on one corner. You will be able to see which one with your soapy water as you'll see bubbles from the base of the solenoid. Only problem is, if it is the rear right, that is one of the two on the bottom of the valve block.

I always test for leaks before putting the valve block in. Short length of 6mm pipe with one of my emergency Schrader valve fittings on the end, put that in the output hole that would go to the air spring and put a tyre pump on it. Run that for a couple of seconds and it'll be up to 150 psi (or whatever your pump can manage), then see if it holds the pressure or if it drops. In fact you can do that test with the valve block in place, you just need to put pressure into it through the hole where the pipe to the right rear should go.

With no leaks it should stay at the height it was at when switched off. You might hear a tick, tick, tick from the valve block as it settles to the correct height but after that it shouldn't move. It sounds like you have a leak somewhere, only slight, but enough to let the air out.

Brass springy bits at the top. Or at least they were on the one we did a couple of weeks ago.