Which bit do you mean?
Probably from looking at the glovebox strut, I know they are expensive. I looked as mine has no gas left in it but after reconnecting the one in the Ascot I realised that a strut with no gas makes closing the glovebox easier. I'm OK though, my poverty spec interior doesn't have a strut in the cubby, or the worse than useless cup holders either......
I did the practical on my car. It was a choice between doing it on a test rig in the classroom or the other side of a door in the car park. Full recovery, pressure test, vac and refill and I know for definite I've got the correct amount of gas in it.
He'd be a bit far away for you Nick, Tony Muxlow Developments (https://tony-muxlow-developments.co.uk/) who is an hour up the A1 for me. He does have accommodation there but I suspect that is extra (although Mrs Muxlow does appear regularly with coffee and at lunchtime a plate of sandwiches). Under normal circumstances he does training sessions at various other places but that isn't happening at the moment. The F Gas course was £995 + VAT (and F Fgas registration a further £142) and I think the Automotive one is around £300 if done on it's own but it is only a day. Biggest problem I had was that he starts at 8am meaning I had to be out of bed earlier than when I was working!
Anyone need any nuts? After noticing the boot on the drag link was split when I was under the front changing the steering box, I ordered a Lemforder replacement from Island 4x4. There was a note saying that it didn't come with new nuts and they needed ordering separately, so I ordered 2. Got an email from Sam at Island to say they were out of stock of Lemforder but could supply either a Moog or Sidem (which in the description says it is made by Moog anyway). Emailed back saying that they were the same price and as long as they didn't send me a Britpart I wasn't too bothered. It arrived today, a Moog. But, unlike the Lemforder it comes with new nuts. Not only that but the nuts are supplied in bags of 5 so I've got 10 brand new, never taken out of their packet, drag link and track rod nuts.....
Also pulled the passenger side heater blower out. A couple of days ago the output from the heater was feeble and the outdoor temperature was shown as 19 degrees when it was at least 28. Passenger side blower wasn't working so the colder air from the AC was being blown out the duct onto the external temperature sensor. Putting it onto recirculate improved things but it still wasn't good. Oddly, no book symbol or faults recorded when I checked with the Nano. Last time I had a blower out (drivers) I noticed the brushes were well worn so I'd ordered some replacements (same as most other Valeo motors used in Citroen, Peugeot, Mercedes, BMW, and a few others) and they arrived today too. Unsoldered the old brushes and soldered the new one in place. Running it from a variable current, 12V supply, it didn't seem to be running that smoothly and sparks could be seen from one of the brushes. Figuring the commutator was a bit dirty and the brush just needed to bed in a bit, gave it a squirt of contact cleaner. Not a good idea as it appears contact cleaner is flammable and the sparks ignited it. So there's me holding a motor spinning at quite a rate with flames coming out of it. So, after recovering it from the flower border where it had ended up after I'd dropped it, had a closer look. Commutator was burnt in one place so not all poles were working and the reason why it had stopped the other day was because it had obviously come to rest on the dodgy part. Fortunately I had another motor with completely worn out brushes so swapped them over and this one ran much smoother. Then pulled the drivers blower, checked that, fitted new brushes and job done. So reliable fans now too.
Certainly is. That leak on the pipe union would have lost your refrigerant in a matter of days, but all looks fine now, well done. The other good point is the Nitrogen will draw out any moisture or contamination when it is let out, so it'll work better once is is filled.
They are obviously being cautious as the system runs at 4-5 times that. The electronic leak detectors aren't a lot of good in all honesty. They have to be set at their most sensitive then they end up responding to any exhaust fumes, oil fumes and anything else floating around. On the course we just used the very same Fairy Liquid and water mix I use for looking for EAS leaks!
If you have it, do a test to make sure it is correct. If you lock with the fob and then unlock with the key, it will ask for the EKA. Enter it (instructions are also in the handbook, under Locks and Alarm) and make sure it works. If it does, great, if it doesn't then you just need to unlock with the fob again and that resets everything back to normal.
Emergency Key Access, the most important 4 digit number for any P38 owner. If, for whatever reason, the car cannot be unlocked with the remote fob and you resort to the old fashioned method of putting a bit of metal in the hole, it will unlock just the drivers door and will not turn off the immobiliser so you can get in but not start the car. To turn that off you enter the EKA by putting the key in the drivers door lock, turning to lock 4 times, then enter the first digit with the correct number of turns to unlock, second digit with turns to lock and so on. After entering all 4 digits a single turn to unlock unlocks the other doors and turns the immobiliser off so you can start the car. Alternatively, if you have a Nanocom you can plug that in and key in the EKA which does the same thing. It should be in the owners handbook if you have it, if you don't, an LR main dealer should be able to look your car up on their system and tell you what it is.
Depends on what you want. If you want to proper original key and fob, it has to be ordered from Land Rover using your VIN as the key needs to be programmed for your car before they send it out to you, not cheap though. Alternatively, if you just want a dumb keyblade (or what they call a valet key), your local Timsons or other key cutting place can do it (it uses a BMW blank which they probably won't keep in stock). At least then you can get in the car, enter the EKA and drive it, you just won't have the remote operation.
I've recently done the F Gas for industrial and domestic and the automotive AC courses and got my qualifications for them. A couple of mates, both in the entertainment industry so have no work on at the moment, did the automotive course so they are doing mobile AC re-gassing while they have no proper work. I (illegally) installed AC in my daughters house and have since been asked to do installs for other people so did the F Gas course. F Gas is a 4 day course compared with automotive being a 1 day one so I asked if I could also do the automotive while I was at it. As this was only a few weeks ago, it's all still fresh in my mind, so RAVE is wrong. R134A runs at between 12 and 15 bar depending on ambient temperature and a pressure test should be done at 1.43 x operating pressure. However on automotive systems, 10 bar is regarded as the 'safe' pressure test, it will show up any leaks but won't cause any that weren't already there. So you connect up the Nitrogen (should be OFN really), crank it up to 10 bar and then leave it for 30 minutes. Even the smallest leak will show up almost immediately with the gauge on the bottle dropping. Then you let the OFN out and vacuum down to around 1.3 mBar (1000 microns) before refilling with refrigerant. it's this bit that the automatic machines that most places use do. So will manually pressure test with OFN before letting the machine do it's thing but most don't bother and rely on the vacuum test. It's very common for a system to be able to hold a vacuum but not pressure, so it's not a valid check really and there's no substitute for doing it properly, although that does rely on whoever is doing it knows what they are doing, and most don't......
Gauges are cheap enough these days and the Argon regulator you've got is fine for what you are doing (domestic AC systems running R410A or R32, need to be pressure tested at 37 bar so need one a bit meatier) but it's the vacuum pump that you probably don't have.
If it won't dry in this weather, assuming you've got a similar 32 degrees to me, it'll never dry. It's the thick foam underneath that normally takes a long time to dry out although someone did say driving over it can help to squeeze the water out.
I've never owned a car with twin electrics so this is all a bit theoretical for me but by looking at the diagram here https://www.westerntowing.co.uk/blog/caravan-12s-wiring-diagram/ it seems to me that you have everything you need except for a battery charge feed on the blue wire (pin 2). I'm not sure why a fridge would be powered from an ignition switched supply either (surely it will start to defrost when you aren't driving?) but that must be a caravanner's thing. You've got the other feeds in the connector you've found behind the LH rear light. I've used that connector to provide power to a reversing camera and a pair of fag lighter power sockets in the boot with a changeover switch so they can be either ignition switched or permanently live. As you say, the wires, and fusing, are too feeble to use to charge an additional battery in the caravan unless it's only a little one (and from my limited knowledge of power in a caravan I know that usually they are hoofing great big leisure batteries).
For the blue wire to charge a battery, the way I would do it is use a voltage sensing relay (or just a blocking diode if you can live with the 0.8V drop) and run a separate cable, preferably 6.0mm, directly from that to pin 2 on the socket. That way you can have the caravan battery in parallel with the vehicle battery when the engine is running but disconnected when it isn't. My car still has the split charge relay that plod installed for an auxiliary battery in the boot and that takes it's trigger from the sense terminal on the alternator so operates (or did) when the alternator is charging.
No need to get all the stickiness off, just any lumps of foam so the surface is smooth. At the summer camp my partner was in Marty's workshop taking the old stuff off with a wire brush. Made a hell of a mess and she ended up with one inch sticky foam platforms on her trainers. Then she walked out of the workshop and the gravel stuck to the soles of her shoes.......
One word, Martrim......
dhallworth wrote:
Amazing that Land Rover charge £1500 for a GEMS MAF.
Nah, not that much, only £1137.55 including the VAT (https://www.lrdirect.com/ERR5595-Air-Flow-Meter/) or a mere £897.49 if you are prepared to part ex your duff one (https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-ERR5595). must admit there's not a lot in it for that money though (and, fortunately, pattern ones work adequately well in a GEMS unlike a Thor that insist on having genuine Bosch).
I would assume there's two ways of doing it. Either just connect to the dangling connector meaning you probably won't have anything connected to Pin 2 of the white socket so it won't charge a caravan battery, or connect the extra bit under the bonnet so it has the ability to charge a caravan battery while the engine is running. The GEMS diagram shows a couple of spare ways on the pink plug, one of which is fed with permanent power from fuse 35, however, as you say, the Thor diagram is different. However, there is a permanent live output shown as spare on pin 3 of C0570 (the grey plug) fed from Fuse 29, although the face view of that connector shows it to have a Red/Black wire in it which the diagram shows as going nowhere.....
Just deleted your duplicate post (in case you wonder where it went). When mine came free after having the windows open the car filled with sticky orange bits of foam.....
We did a mass headlining replacement session at one of the Summer Camps at Marty's workshop. See https://rangerovers.pub/topic/663-summer-camp-2017-head-lining-photos
See https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mass_flow_sensor#Hot_wire_sensor_(MAF)
Have you got a voltage on the bits that stick into the airflow?