So what are you doing cutting into an ATM? I thought the usual method was to ram raid the location and then open it with a plasma cutter......

Morat wrote:

Now I've moved within a few hundred yards of a Screwfix, it's starting to get a little addictive :)

My stepfather used to spend so much time there that my mother thought he'd got himself another woman......

Simon is right, you need an M6 nut. If you ferret around in your box of oddments which we all have, you may even find one of those square nuts used on roofing bolts. They are M6 thread.

and while you are at it, get a pack of these https://www.screwfix.com/p/metal-cutting-discs-4-115mm-x-1-x-22-2mm-5-pack/2757v, only 1mm thick and will slice through nuts and bolts in no time. You'll never use a hacksaw again. As they are on offer at the moment, I'm going to pick up another couple of packs tomorrow.

Cheap enough to treat yours to a new one and drill the old one https://www.lrdirect.com/Parts-by-Model/Range-Rover-P38-Parts/Cooling/Expansion-Tank/PCD000070-Cap/

Angle grinder....... If you can't get in to cut through the bolt, cut along the bolt lengthwise so you cut the nut in half.

Header tank is a BMW item, cap is the same as a similar vintage 5 series, more readily available and cheaper than one with an LR label too.

While my boss has been using the Ascot, it has been losing coolant so just been out to see if I could see where from. Ran the engine until it was hot but it isn't pressuring the cooling system (proving that it's a decent engine but has a coolant leak somewhere) so made up something to attach my tyre pump to. Lump of thick heater hose with tape wrapped around it to make it a tight fit into the header tank, with a smaller diameter bit of hose pushed inside that, EAS pipe joiner with tape wrapped around it pushed into that, short piece of EAS pipe then one of my EAS to Schrader valve adapters from the emergency get me home kit. That allowed me to use my tyre pump to pressurise the cooling system up to 25 psi. Easily enough to see it's leaking from at least 3 core plugs...... However, I very much doubt that is where your leak is from considering the age and history of your car. The Ascot is a '96 with 175k on the clock and a history of neglect so has almost certainly been run with plain water in the cooling system at some time in the past.

Part number for the bolts is ERR4961 which is listed in Microcat as Screw - Flanged head M8 Manifold to head, so whatever the thread pitch is for standard M8 bolts I would assume.

Martyuk wrote:

though luckily we now have an option at less than a third of what Land Rover asks, which is a plug and play solution ;) check out my website for more info :)

and I can vouch that it works perfectly.

If you saw my thread here https://rangerovers.pub/topic/1024-ignition-tamper you'll know that I suffered interference to the keyfob receiver from a 433 MHz wireless central heating thermostat in our new house. Although it should have only sent a data burst every 10 minutes it turned out that it was faulty and sending a burst every 15 seconds so the BeCM was never going to sleep. Had I not had the ginormous Hankook battery fitted chances are it would have gone flat overnight. In fact, after not being used one evening so had been left for two days, the starter did sound decidedly sluggish when I next used it. If the car was left parked for any length of time the first press of unlock on the fob tried to lock the already locked doors, second press unlocked it. When turning the ignition on the message centre came up with ALARM TRIGGERED, followed by IGNITION TAMPER. If a door was left open for any length of time, after the interior lights had timed out and gone out shortly afterwards the dash would beep and display INTERIOR LIGHTS OFF, followed a few seconds later by IGNITION LIGHTS ON and it would continue doing this for as long as it was left unlocked with a door open.

I was sent one of Marty and Nick's prototype units to test. Although I replaced the faulty thermostat with a newer one operating on 868 MHz, I left the old one powered up so although it was no longer controlling the heating was still transmitting. My car was no longer affected at all and was back to normal, although I had to disconnect the battery on the SE and, as the Ascot came back from the extended loan to my boss, found that it was doing exactly the same as mine. So I had 3 cars, 2 without the unit and one with and the one with was the only one not being affected by the data bursts from the thermostat. So I can confirm it works perfectly and is also a 5 minute job to fit. Lift the panel to access the receiver on the car, unplug the cable to the receiver, plug the unit inline and put the cover back, job done and no more suffering from RF issues due to other transmissions in the area. Thanks lads, f*cking brilliant!

The superlock motor is a tiny little thing and I doubt you'd hear it, most likely it was the actual lock motor. Faulty latches can cause them to try to run constantly and burn out. Disconnecting the antenna will have no affect whatsoever on the dancing locks. For that to be the cause you'd need to have either keyfob that was operating all on it's own (but with the key in the ignition it would still be close enough to the receiver for it to pick up a signal from the fob) or something else sending exactly the right code to lock and unlock your car. With the next thing after dancing locks being locking you out and not being able to enter the EKA, I'd move it up to the top of the to do list. Something to do while waiting for your new water pump.

Have you checked the O ring on the heater outlet from the manifold that I mentioned a couple of weeks ago? That's above the oil filter.

As Marty says, it's dodgy microswitches. The door that doesn't lock is the one with the dodgy switch.

Ah but that's if you plug it in to a standard 13A socket, if you have their charging station installed, it only takes 9 hours for a full charge. What they don't tell you is that you have to have a 3 phase supply installed in your house to power it. Like that's going to be possible in a modern housing estate.

Has anyone else noticed the irony of the ads encouraging people to have a smart meter installed so you can identify where you are wasting electricity and switch stuff off and the fact that they have announced a ban on the sale of halogen replacement lamps now LED technology has caught up, again to save electricity. Then they try to encourage people to buy an electric car.......

I've looked at these surveys before and they aren't representative. The sort of person that buys a Toyota Yaris or a Nissan Leaf regards reliability as does it start, does it go, does it stop. They will ignore the niggly things like leaking door seals, wind noise, strange noises, etc that someone who has bought a Range Rover wouldn't put up with. It's always the cheaper cars that come out on top as people accept that the car was cheap so isn't going to be perfect. Although I did see an L405 with the rear 3/4 panel held on with parcel tape the other day.

Amused that the Tesla came out bottom though.......

If that is the engine fitted to the early L322, I reckon it would work in a post-99, Thor engined, P38. Same. or at least very similar, Bosch Motronic ECU, so getting it to talk to the rest of the car shouldn't be too difficult (or even use the original P38 ECU?). It may even be possible to use the original ZF 4HP24 gearbox but even the L322 ZF 5HP24 may be able to be fitted to the rest of the running gear. A 280bhp P38 would suit me down to the ground, L322 performance with the relative simplicity (compared to an L322) and vastly superior looks of the P38..

Have you got space for a few basic tools and oddments like a roll of tape, binding wire, etc under the boot floor next to the spare wheel? Not exactly convenient to get to if the boot is full of other stuff but better than being stranded for something fairly minor. There's actually a decent amount of space under the rear seats too for thinner items.

I have a feeling that it needs to be powered up for something like a day to come out of wait mode. That would mean either a very long journey or leaving the car ignition turned on for a very long time, neither of which would be a good idea. You'll need to apply permanent power to the ignition switched supply and just leave it and hope it sorts itself out.

I'm running Delphi all round (came with the new discs) and no problems with them, plenty of bite and I haven't been able to get them to fade yet (even with a grossly overloaded 3.5 tonne trailer on the back).

Don't suppose you have another USB adapter to try, ones using the FTDI chipset are the most reliable. I've got a PCMCIA card to serial adapter that has never failed to connect to anything you are welcome to borrow if needed (if you laptop has a PCMCIA slot). Come to that, I've got an IBM Thinkpad with a docking station that gives a serial port too but it's probably a bit hefty to put in the post.

Easy bleed won't work...... You have to follow the process.