Green Flag man should be able to sort it. Favourite method is a thin strip of plastic down the window,

Rear quarterlight glass is another way.

Must be 'improved' security on the later ones then. Just went out to mine, key in ignition, turn ignition on and fully open the drivers window, turn ignition off but leave key in ignition, press sill button down, doors locked, closed door, doors all unlocked. If your door ajar switch wasn't working then it would constantly telling you the door was open when it wasn't.

The best, most non destructive, method is to get the tailgate open by grounding the tailgate latch wire. For that you will need a Stanley knife and a length of wire. Small fingers are helpful too.

But of course if it doesn't work then you are doubly f**cked as the door will be fully shut and locked and not just on the first latch........

Had a theory so just tried it on mine (but with the key in my hand not in the ignition). I didn't think it was possible to lock the doors with them open so I unlocked mine, opened the drivers door, pressed the sill button down to lock all the doors and let the door close. All doors locked, can't get in but the drivers door wasn't fully shut, it was just on the first latch. Gave the door a shove to shut it fully and all doors unlocked.

Theory is that the door ajar switch only operates when the door is either fully closed or fully open. With it part latched it is still telling the BeCM it is open.

I've ordered black single ply from them direct from their website. The first time I got what I ordered, the second time they rang me and said they didn't have any single ply but could send 3 ply instead for the same price (I declined as it is too thick and rigid), the third time, they rang and said they had no black or blue only red so I increased the amount I ordered hence having a few feet of red single ply. They always say it is in stock but it rarely is, they either don't have any or it is coming in with the next shipment, which it doesn't.

It is, it's 8mm internal for the throttle body heater and the radiator to expansion tank bleed pipe. 5mm internal for cruise control.

Ahh, the inner wheelarch liners, that's OK then. You'll need some of these then https://www.lrdirect.com/ANR2224-Fastener/

Wheel arch protectors? I thought you wanted to restore it to original not make it look like a Discovery.

Off topic isn't an issue on this forum, we normally get back on topic eventually unless the original question has been answered then it can wander off anywhere.

On a more modern car, yes it probably would, but as you know, I'm not into modern cars, I'm into ones that you can actually work on......

Single ply means it has a single layer of polyester braiding around the inner core and then a further layer on the outside to protect the braiding. The stuff you have is just a tube with no reinforcing in it so could, in theory, blow up like a balloon if you put enough pressure into it. But, as said, you're never going to achieve that sort of pressure in the cooling system. My local factors used to stock that stuff in 5mm ID which was excellent for replacing the cruise control tubing but they haven't had it in for a while now. I wish I'd bought a few metres of it when they did.

Looks like you are running a touch rich on LPG, mine came out at 0.237% CO last time but in the past I've seen it down in the 0.05% region. CO checks the mixture, the higher the figure the richer it is running but you'd probably find that just changing the air filter would drop it further and get it below 1%. The HC figure is unburnt hydrocarbons in parts per million so shows combustion efficiency. They check both to stop you fiddling the figures. If the CO was high you could reduce it by 25% on a 4 cylinder engine just by pulling one plug lead off but if you did that the HC figure would go through the roof. Mind you, thinking that through, if you disconnected the fuel injector too.......

Not a lot at the back of the engine to leak other than the rear main seal or the sump, although a leak from the front of the engine from the oil pressure switch or pressure relief valve O ring tends to appear at the rear as airflow around the engine blows it to the back. If it isn't marking it's territory, I'd ignore it. Oil leaks have only recently been added to the MoT test so just about every tester is giving advisories on anything that isn't spotless underneath.

That stuff doesn't have the reinforcing so the burst pressure would be much lower than the single ply that we all want or the triple ply that ASH try to palm off as an upgrade but, as Sloth says, is much thicker and less flexible. In saying that, the single ply is rated with a burst pressure way above what you would ever achieve in the cooling system so is overkill really. The best part with the silicone hose is that it never goes hard unlike normal rubber coolant hose, no matter how long it has been there it remains flexible so you can remove it. I've got about 4 feet of the unobtainium single ply hose and will be using a short piece to replace the inlet manifold to throttle body heater on the car that I'm currently bolting back together. The old hose had gone so hard that even with hose clip removed completely it still wouldn't pull off the manifold, so I just chopped it in half.

As an alternative to ASH, there's this place http://www.silex.co.uk/shop/silicone-braided-hose/silicone-braided-hose-70%C2%B0-shore-red-outer/c-24/c-77/p-699, slightly more expensive than ASH but they may actually have it in stock.

If you mean the HC (unburnt hydrocarbons) figure the limit is 1200 but usually it will be down into the low 100's so 200 ppm is pretty good (mine read 241ppm at the last test) but I would expect a recently installed multipoint system like you have to be better than my singlepoint. It is a test of how efficient the combustion is so will be affected by things like worn spark plugs, tired HT leads, etc.

Martyuk wrote:

Nanocom if the vehicle supports it - IE BECM PAM V36 or above - which from memory is mid-97 onwards).

That's what I'd always been told but the Ascot (mid '96) has V32 yet the EKA can still be entered with the Nanocom. Just to be awkward.

Straight bolt on. They are identical except they don't have the spurious metal tag that the P38 ones have that serves no purpose other than get in the way when you try to wiggle it out of the door.

It was more a case of where the screws would end up if they came out that bothered me. They may be small and made of brass but I didn't fancy the idea of them getting sucked into the intake and finding their way into a combustion chamber.

I think the hardest part is getting the screws out that hold the butterfly in place, I've never attempted it myself. Looked at it once and chickened out so decided the play wasn't something I would worry about. The idle control valve will adjust to compensate for any excess air that gets through. I noticed that Rimmers say that the spindle is superseded but they don't say to what and Microcat says that it is also supplied as part of a kit (along with the bushes and seals) but nowhere can I find the part number of the kit.

Original tyres were either Pirelli Scorpion, Michelin or Goodyear. Sizes were 235/70x16 if equipped with 7Jx16 wheels, 255/65x16 if 8Jx16 wheels and 255/55x18 if fitted with 8Jx18 wheels. All were 109 load rating and HR speed rating. The closest you are going to find in appearance to original are going to be Goodyear Wrangler HP All Weather. I had a set on mine up until last year, not bad but not brilliant in the wet, too road tyre for mud and absolutely useless on snow.

There's always a little bit of movement in them but you can get new bushes and seals. Bush part number is ERR1756 (£6.78 each from LRDirect) and the seals are AUD3577 (£3.90 each from Rimmer Bros) but I can't find anyone that stocks both so you are looking at two lots of postage. For parts your best bets are LRDirect, Island 4x4 and Rimmer Bros. Rimmers tend to be slightly more expensive than the others but if you are in a hurry their next day delivery really is next day.

Nice one, it had all the hallmarks of an iffy earth anyway so having a poke around and clean up might be a good idea.

The basic engine was built by V8 Developments but it was then refitted and the intake assembled by the guy that had taken it out. He obviously took it off and just bunged it back on without doing anything with it. If you look very carefully at where the gasket has blown, there's a tiny hole in the casting right where the fire ring would be. I suspect it was a microscopic air bubble in the original casting that wasn't noticed when it was put together. You can see the marks where the head was skimmed, it has spacers under the rocker pedestals to make up for the metal that had been removed from the head face, top hat liners and stud kit.. Gasket had the Elring red lines on it too. So the actual engine is fine, except for the blown gasket, it was the refitting that wasn't done well.

One other thing I found was that Island no longer list the head gasket set with Elring gaskets but LRDirect list an Allmakes head gasket set that doesn't include head gaskets but also list the Elring gaskets on their own. So I ordered the head set and an Elring gasket. It arrived yesterday and LRDirect tell lies, the set does include head gaskets so I've actually got 3, an Elring and two Allmakes (with no markings to show who might have made them).