Get a plain glass one like us commoners......

https://www.island-4x4.co.uk/mirror-glass-btr6072-p-1304.html

As Garvin says, it's the feedback pot in the mirror so it doesn't know where to return it to. If giving it a workout doesn't work, you can just turn the feature off.

The other problem with a slight leak is that it will only make itself known when the system is pressurised so only when hot. Then, if it is only a small leak, it will often evaporate before you can see where it is coming from so that is where a pressure test when cold really comes into its own.

I wrapped a load of PVC tape around a lump of heater hose so it was a tight fit into the neck of the reservoir. Then wrapped a load more around one of my EAS emergency Schrader valves so it jammed into the other end of the heater hose. I managed about 25 psi before it blew out but by pressurising it to 20 psi allowed me to spot a leaking core plug on the Ascot.

Passenger airbag might not be a bad idea to stop an SRS fault although on a later car it should clear once everything is back together anyway.

Do you mean you pulled the motor apart too? If you did you will see a plastic ring floating around behind the brushes that seems to do nothing. It doesn't once it's in but when putting the end back on you push the brushes back as far as they will go, then, with your third hand, lift the ring up so it holds the brushes back. Then you can slide the end into place and, as the commutator gets almost all the way in, it pushes the plastic ring back into the space behind the brushes and they spring back into place.

You could always calculate it using the gear ratios, the transfer case ratios, the diff ratios and the rolling circumference of the tyres......

Not sure how accurate you could get it though.

No, you won't damage a Calcium battery if you charge at up to 14.8V but it still achieve full charge if you give it anything more than around 13.8V.

This https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/14V-Bosch-Type-Alternator-Regulator-AUDI-BMW-FIAT-FORD-PORSCHE-SEAT-VW-VOLVO-/183895830413 looks to be the correct one for your alternator (but check the list to be sure).

Not that many manuals about and I doubt you can get an auto into top at 20mph, torque converter certainly won't be locked up at that speed. How do you intend offending the Lord Mayor of London? I want to ask why a taxi converted to run on LPG can be exempt from the ULEZ charge yet a privately owned car converted to run on LPG isn't. Wasn't a problem when it was only the very centre matching the CC zone but now it stretches out to the North and South Circular roads, I'd even cop for the charge if I called in at Beckton Sainsburys for a tankful of LPG (or wanted to visit my step daughter in Rotherhithe).....

I have......

It's down a hole where that cutaway bit is. Imperial size too just to confuse everyone although the nearest metric with a dob of grinding paste on the end usually fits well enough.

I had a pattern one on my car, admittedly it was the second one as the first one \i tried worked for about a week, and it seemed fine. Looking at the readings from the Nanocom and it was pretty close to what it should be and the car drove fine. I then noticed that the Ascot had an original one on it so decided to swap them over. Checked both with the Nano and while the original was almost spot on what the readings should be, there was no difference in the way either car ran.

It would only possibly cause a problem if you tried to run from the alternator alone without a battery. 14.8V is OK with a high Calcium battery but would boil an older style Lead Acid one dry.

The socket isn't keyed but the shaft has a flat on it that the grub screw should bear against. If it's been apart before and that wasn't realised (or was assembled wrong from new), it could have been relying solely on the grub screw to stop it spinning on the shaft. I always set the grub screw so it is protruding slightly into the hole then the assembly will only slip onto the shaft if the grub screw is lined up with the flat. It's salvageable though.

That looks buggered. Only time I've seen one like that the bearing had started breaking up. Other possibility is that it's been apart before and the crank wasn't pushed fully onto the shaft so it wasn't running square.

Hi Chris, glad you found your way here. Telford and not seen another P38? It was only built just down the road! Sounds like you've as much to offer to others as needing help.

I've done that with larger ones too but when there's a hydraulic press available......

Not just today but finished it today and not exactly mine but the Ascot. It had some old and well dodgy tyres on the front, a pair of Goodyears, one dated 2007 and one without a date. The steering never has felt particularly precise and it had a habit of wandering about on bumpy roads. I'd put this down to the tyres being well past their use by date. Anyway, one of them went down while it was parked up so I put my electric pump on it. Managed to achieve 20 psi and a bulge appeared in the sidewall and the air was all falling out again. So, a pair of new, well part worn but only a couple of years old, tyres were fitted. I expected this to improve the steering but it actually had the opposite effect and it required quite a bit of concentration to keep it in a straight line.

So a bit more investigation was needed. With me under the front and Dina rocking the steering there was no slack in any of the steering ball joints. What there was though was movement in the panhard rod bushes so the axle was actually moving from side to side relative to the body. That would explain it then. Ordered some new bushes and bunged them in the freezer and took the panhard rod off. The old bushes were really soft and perished nicely but no matter how hard I tried with a couple of sockets and a big hammer, there was no way they were coming out. So bunged it in the boot of mine and went to see a mate with a workshop equipped with a 20 tonne hydraulic press. They were tight and took over 8 tonnes on them before starting to move with an almighty crack. Old ones out, cleaned up the hole and the new, still freezing, bushes pushed in no problem at all.

That was yesterday and as it was both dark and cold by the time I got home left refitting it until today. What a difference it made! Near me there a a bit of road that used to be the A1 until they built a new 6 lane A1(M) running parallel with it. As it only gets used for local traffic, it isn't in the best of condition but I was able to drive along there at a steady 70 mph without it feeling like it was going to throw me into the nearest ditch if I hit a bump.

Just got to sort out the permanent ABS and Traction failure, the HEVAC with the book showing and probably a few more things I'll notice after I've done them.......

Yes, you can change the number that you get when you decode the lockset bar code. Your problem is going to be identifying what code the key is sending, unless it is the original key and you have the info from Land Rover. Was it Turner Engineering or Turner Diagnostics as they are two completely different companies. Turner Engineering supply top hatted engines while Turner Diagnostics are another of those companies that claim to be the experts but there's been a couple of not very favourable reviews for them, including one person that went there in person.

What's an HSK?

Do you have the one on the other side? If it originally had the Diversity radio, there will be an aerial on both sides, one doing FM only, the other doing FM and AM so there will have been two aerial cables at the head unit. If that is the case, use the other one. Although a '95 may not have had both.

I suspect you'll have difficulty trying to solder to the glass, it will conduct the heat away so you'll never get a decent connection. You could try using some of the silver impregnated epoxy used to repair broken tracks in heated rear screens. A piece of wire connected to the aerial input of the amplifier should work as well as the on-glass aerial as long as it isn't shielded from the outside world by the bodywork.