I recently had the same fault. I sprayed the MAF sensor with MAF sensor cleaner. So far so good but it’s only been a couple of weeks so I can’t say that I solved it for sure.

The more heavily loaded you are, the more pressure you’ll need. Empty you need around 100psi. I doubt that you’d ever need 120, but the system runs at 150.

I teed into each line that goes to the wheels and put Schraeder valves in them. It works great. You may not need to do this for your test run though, as it may all work just fine.

Thanks for that Marshall. I printed a copy so I have it when the time comes.

Wow, I didn’t know I could get front TC. Lack of 4 wheel TC is really the only thing that I had wished a Bosch P38 for.

Do you now have front TC on a GEMS P38?

Isn’t carpet tape 2 sided? I used Gorilla tape, also black and stronger and way longer lasting than regular duct tape.

It’s a few years ago but I think I used Vaseline.

That’s great info. Thanks Tom.

Sloth, if you ever get to it I’ll certainly be interested in a fob. I’ve only ever had one and I don’t know if it’s a #1 or 2.

I came to the same point with my 2A last year. It was in great shape and I got a decent dollar for it, but I have no idea what a non running forward control is worth. They might be pretty sought after as overlanders.

How do you get an unlocked BeCM?

It was -28 outside, not in the garage. I can use my electric heater in the garage to make it quite comfortable. It’s warmed up to -13 today so it’s going in the right direction.

Don, my unheated but attached garage is below freezing right now. The P38’s been inside for 20 hours and the snow hasn’t melted off. It was -28C outside! We don’t get it that cold very often fortunately.

I don’t see any rust that I’d be concerned about. Clean it up a bit and spray it with something like Tremclad and it will be good for another 20 years.

Yeah I agree. I’ve never noted that “tone” on this forum.

I totally agree that this is easily the best P38 site but for some of the mechanical bits that are common to other LR’s (like your diff pinion seal), your answer might easily be found on another LR site. I also frequent landroverforums.com for my D2 and there is definitely cross over for a number of items.

How cold are we talking? I had some leaks on mine a few years ago only in the cold at a couple of hose to plastic coupling joints. I tightened the clamps a bit more and the leaks stopped. Plastic expands and contracts with temperature a lot more than most materials, so I’m sure the plastic couplings shrunk enough in the cold to allow leaks.

Heating both items still makes it easier to remove.

Running the engine was a recommended procedure on a previous vehicle I had (Dodge Dakota IIRC). Of course if you could keep the probe cool at the same time it would work even better. For seized bolts etc, heating the whole thing helps, even though it would help even more if you could keep the bolt cool.