I’ve only removed O2 sensors a few times and I’ve never needed to use heat but I’ve read that heating the surrounding boss can ease removal.

If it goes by Royal Mail/Canada Post it will usually come without any extra fees.

The Couriers will charge me “brokerage” fees on anything worth over something like £15 into Canada.

https://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/mastercraft-bit-wrench-set-29-pc-0588626p.html#srp
This little 90* ratcheting screw driver is very handy. I’m sure there are other non-Canadian suppliers out there.

If you’re on this side of the Atlantic, try Will Tillery at http://roverguy.com/ for used parts.

I never pay VAT for parts sent to Canada. On this end I often have to pay Canadian taxes, which doesn’t bother me. What does bother me is the exorbitant “brokerage” fees the shipping companies often add to their charges.

Oh wow, so sorry. I had no idea Britcar was your baby. Sad to see another LR supplier go away.

There’s a fairly experienced guy on Landroverforums who swears by leaving his lamba’s disconnected on his Disco 2 (Thor) all the time. I think it would work the same on a P38 Thor. Personally I wouldn’t recommend this other than for troubleshooting.

Ok thanks Richard, that’s also good to know.

Thanks for that. I still wonder if the BeCM can send a signal to immobilize the ECU whenever it decides to, that can’t be overridden just by selecting YES on my Nanocom. I’m probably overthinking this though.

I’m very sure the Throttle Body Heater is not the revving problem. It is a common coolant leak area though.

Ah Lesotho! Very fond memories there flying for the Lesotho Flying Doctor Sevice in 1987. A very beautiful country.

Ah Lesotho! Very fond memories there flying for the Lesotho Flying Doctor Sevice in 1987. A very beautiful country.

I’m no expert on this but I don’t think O2 sensors will modify the fuel enough to make it run that poorly. I think you could confirm it’s not the O2’s by disconnecting the plugs to the upstream sensors (downstream sensors don’t modify the fuel trim). The ECU should then go into open loop and run quite fine if the rest of the system is fine.

I’ve only removed one from a parts P38, LHD. I just followed Rave and it went fine. I would definitely disconnect the battery if it was me.

You are right, it’s the volume of air that increases to raise the car. From the point that a spring begins to lift off the stop until it hits max extension the pressure will remain the same. The pressure will increase if the weight increases. (I’m an aircraft mechanic and this is exactly how landing gear struts work).

Thanks Dave. At this point I’m not planning on buying a printer, but that might happen one day. So far I haven’t needed access to my pump but it’s really nice to have an access panel when you do. On my D2 I needed to T/S a fuel quantity issue and the panel made that job a lot easier.

You could probably 3D print some and sell them to a number of us here. The fact that it fits the corrugations is a big plus.

Rave says to disconnect the battery and wait 10 minutes. I know a lot of experienced mechanics don’t bother and just disconnect and reconnect SRS plugs. Do at your own risk.

Thanks Richard. I’ve been meaning to order a Mobi-lize but I guess I don’t need to.