I checked mine with Nano, and it was already set. Do you think this is as good as the Mobi-lize?

It sounds like you have quite a bit of mechanical experience, and also Land Rover experience. Once you get your P38 sorted you’ll love it.

That should be of great importance to us with GEMS P38’s. Thanks Si.

Wow, quite a good story. I know what the bump stops feel like!

That’s exactly my worry, and maybe when I’m way off-grid with no-one else around. Hopefully it’s good now.

I cleaned the connectors as noted above, and I replaced the Ignition Switch with a used one I had. It seems to be fine now. If the issue returns it’s something other than the switch. If it comes back it’s either a wire/connector finding a ground, or a BeCM internal fault. Hopefully the problem is solved.

Thanks mad-as. I was no where near the car when it happened, and it turned off normally when I had shut it down the previous day. I don’t think I’ll figure it out until it happens again and I can do more trouble shooting. In the meantime I plan to spray the switch with contact cleaner, and I think disconnect and clean the 2 plugs at the BeCM.

As far as wading goes, it hasn’t been wet since I’ve had it (4 1/2 years), and before me it was certainly never off-roaded. It did live it’s first 20 years in Vancouver, where it is very wet for a third of the year.

Thanks as usual for the insight Richard. I’ll see what happens next time it fails.

My 97 P38 just started cranking over in the driveway with no one in it nor any key nearby. I removed relay 16 and it stopped. I tried a different relay and it immediately started cranking again. With the relay removed, I inserted the key and cycled it to start a couple of times, put the relay back in and it seems to be back to normal.
There’s not much to this system per the wiring diagram, relay to BeCM to ignition switch to ground. It’s hard to imagine a switch failing closed, but maybe it’s possible(?). I suppose the relay could be finding another ground somewhere in the wiring, but then why would cycling the switch cure it? And I really hope the BeCM isn’t finding a ground internally.
Have any of you experienced this before or have any other ideas?

I think most of the design features on the LR’s are actually very good. The lower rad attach bolts just aren’t one of them. At least they gave me enough room to get a recip saw at them.

But they should have estimated that. By the time they built P38’s it was pretty clear that quite a number of LR vehicles were still in use decades later.

Thanks Richard. That makes me feel better about using ty-wraps.

I didn’t destroy anything other than the bolts, so I could still go back to bolts, but I’m going to see how ty-wraps work.

I cut the bolts with a reciprocating saw which worked fine enough, and got the radiator out. Definitely not Land Rovers best idea to capture the nuts in a plastic bracket in a corrosive environment.

Thanks Don. I’m working on grinding them off. The original nut appears to be brass, so I’m not sure that stainless would be any better. I think I may use large ty-wraps in place of the bolts.

Is there a good way to undo the 2 bolts at the bottom of the radiator? The nuts just spin in their plastic housing. Maybe I need to just grind the bolt heads off?

Yes, left hand seat (driver’s side for me).

I’ve used the 4 pin relay in place of the timer relay for several years now. It only takes a minute to swap relays when I need to connect the Nanocom. Maybe now since I’ve sorted all the leaks, the 4 pin relay isn’t needed(?). When the weather gets cold (-10C), my rear new Dunlop Air Bags leak to the bump stops over night. When warmer they don’t leak at all.

I don’t think there’s any benefit to EAS being powered with the vehicle off. I think the designers didn’t want to have the vehicle sitting unlevel when parked so they had it wake up at regular intervals to level itself.