I know the BECM has a lot of connectors, but unplugging and reconnecting electronic connectors (battery disconnected) can sometimes solve gremlins. I recently solved a window and odometer problem on my D2 by reconnecting the BCU. I’m an aircraft mechanic and this often works on airplanes as well.
Or shift it manually when you want a bit more pep.
300 miles to a tank while towing 1500Kg doesn’t sound terrible to me (but my driving is in the mountains of British Columbia, so flatter terrain would give better fuel economy).
Wow Rob, bad luck. I would like to think that usually when a fan breaks it wouldn’t do that much damage.
I’ve previously had 2 V8’s (not LR) that have had ticking like I think you’re describing. In both cases snugging up the exhaust manifold bolts cured the tick. I’m not sure if I would have been able to pinpoint the leaks with a hose or not. Good luck on it.
That’s similar to how my Canadian DRL works, except I can still flash the dip switch and get high beams momentarily.
Cool! RRC’s are worth some money these days.
Should be good for another 300,000 miles!
I don’t think you should use 100% concentrate. If you’ve flushed the system with water, you could then add the 100% coolant to the pure water left in the system. Then you’ll end up somewhere in the 50% range.
It looks like the P38 faired a lot better.
I wonder how impressed his female passengers were?
Ok Pierre. IIRC you just fold a lock (or 2?) out of the way and flip the bonnet back to the windscreen.
Pierre, it’s not as difficult as it sounds. I think Rave tells you how. I’ve done it myself without any assistance.
Great find Richard!
Wow. I’m reading with interest. You’re very persistent Richard and thanks for keeping us informed on the way.
I’m glad you got it working.
Does anyone know if the parts (eg bearings etc) to rebuild a pump are available? (I know where to get seals). I have a spare pump that needs more than seals to make it a functional spare.
I’ve had Gorilla tape on mine for a few years with no issues.
Ok thanks. I’ll try to keep that in mind when I have an issue.
Out of curiosity, would Nanocom’s wheel location confusion also apply to my Disco 2, or is this specifically an issue for the P38.
That makes sense.