Thanks Craig. I just installed it last night with Loctite Grey. Very slow progress right now with my current work schedule. I just need to get it together by ski season.
Thanks for that info Richard
If this same problem was with two different cars, this is not likely your issue, but here’s what mine was like when I got it. Battery voltage a little low, I think a bit over 12V (all my numbers will be from memory 5 years ago, so not exact). The alternator itself (alt terminal straight to ground) was 14.5, but alt terminal to battery around 13. I cleaned all the wire connections, which improved it a bit but still a big voltage drop Alt to Batt. I then ran a heavy gauge wire directly from the Alt to the batt + terminal (keeping the rest of the wires as they were. I now have almost no voltage drop. According to the vehicles records, the battery was replaced about every 2 years before I got it. It’s still the same battery in it now so it must be around 7 years old. I think the alternator to starter cable must be marginally too small, but my bodge seems to work so I haven’t bothered replacing it.
Good luck with yours Henry.
Thanks for the replies. I may use the UltraGrey which should be similar to the Hylomar.
Ram Air Housing to Inlet Manifold joint calls for Loctite 577 as a sealant. I’ve never seen this product. Is it what you guys use? Is something like UltraGrey Gasket sealer ok as a substitute? Maybe I need to order the Loctite from somewhere?
I know someone on this forum has a Viair, I don’t remember who, but I think he’s really pleased with it. All of us on this forum are on the purist end of the spectrum, we all highly favour EAS, but I don’t think upgrading the compressor will get you shunned.
Good one Pierre. Maybe P38 values will look like that one day. I’m glad they’re not as I wouldn’t have gotten into them.
I think the EAS wakes up and resets itself every so often when driving, maybe every 15 or 20 minutes?
Agreed! I took apart 3 Valve Blocks to get 3 good NRV’s. It’s only a matter of time…
I’ve had my P38 for 5 years and so far the RSW (paid for version) has done everything I’ve needed. When I got the Disco, it had a few issues that needed something like a Nanocom, so I bought the Evo and have been very happy with it. The Nano is more convenient than the RSW so I have only used it since getting it.
That may be considered rusty for a P38, but by most standards very clean for a 20 year old car near the sea.
4 years sounds horrible. I’m sure mine is the original 25 year old one (with new seals)
Hi Gavin. There are better EAS guys here than me, but I don’t think the compressor should come on every couple of minutes. I think it indicates a leak somewhere other than the air spring side of the system. And it shouldn’t labour that much. I have a spare pump from a parts vehicle that does that (which I intend to sort out some day), but the installed pump is quite quiet.
All this electronics is way over my head, but as for the differences between my P38 and my D2 I’ve always been amazed (even disregarding that one is GEMS and one Motronics). I expected to have all kinds of spare parts for my D2 when I got it, as I had previously stripped a wrecked P38 for a lot of spares.
Thanks for passing this on Dave. I don’t know Wammer, but RRTH, despite his opinionated replies, was a wealth of knowledge and was often quite helpful. Their presence in the LR community will be missed.
You don’t need to remove the fan, just the upper part of the fan shroud. Too bad you drove it until it steamed, hopefully no serious engine damage.
I see you say the steering wheel has been off, so it may be better to reclock the steering wheel itself.
To straighten the steering wheel, it’s just an adjustment on the rod from the steering box to the passenger side wheel. (But might want to figure out why it’s clocked over so far).
If your temps are degrees C, they look fine to me.
7mpg doesn’t sound very good but you can’t really get a good number in 18 miles.
Gordon and Tom, thanks for the info. I will need to look into some sort of non-immobilized ECU then.