Pierre, I don’t remember if you are LHD or RHD. On mine I tried the RHD assembly in the RH door of my LHD vehicle and it didn’t work.
https://rangerovers.pub/topic/2330-right-front-door-latch
I salvaged 3 valve blocks to get enough good NRV’s to make one good valve block.
I wouldn’t be without my Yakima racks, but I either have a canoe or skis or bikes on top a lot of the time. You can probably sell your Thule’s.
You are probably beyond this point, but I make a nice cut of the shredder with a razor knife and then reseal it with Tuck Tape (might be a Canadian brand name).
https://www.amazon.ca/Tuck-Tape-Construction-Sheathing-Epoxy/dp/B088QL3BWM/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?crid=1NR05WU4JGH0Z&keywords=tuck+tape&qid=1673973446&sprefix=tuc%2Caps%2C163&sr=8-3
I’ve recut in the same spot several times and resealed again with very good results. It seals well and you don’t see it once the door card is back on.
Ok great. Thanks.
Gilbertd wrote:
Just connect a wire between the two, you can leave the existing wiring connected.
So I could just jumper the two wires together and still leave them connected to the BECM? I’ve had these two wires marked with a piece of tape for a couple of years, in case I would ever need to bypass the BECM to start mine. I would have expected to cut both wires to the BECM, and then jumper the two together. If the BECM won’t mind, I don’t really see a downside to jumping the 2 wires (I seriously doubt that anyone will want to steal my 26 year old car).
Ok, I’m not sure now if my immobilizer was as I said. I tried it again today (I locked it with the fob last night and unlocked it with the key just now). This time the engine was immobilized. So I’d say I was wrong in my previous post.
We used to have those around here too, but not in 20+ years. I suspected not enough people worked on their own cars anymore to make such a place pay for itself.
I’m hoping it’s a forever fix.
It’s interesting how the views of keeping the TBHeater vary. For the first year or so of having my Disco 2, I frequented the Discoweb forum. The general consensus there was that you should never bypass it, as several members there were sure that they experienced throttle icing after deleting it. For the last year and a half I’ve been on Landroverforums where the consensus is you should delete it as it does no good. I think with the upgraded TBH there’s no need to delete.
https://www.sportscarcentre.ca/MGM000010K
This is it. Sports Car Centre, Edmonton. Not cheap for what it is but it’s better quality than the original. It’s too early for me to say that it will last longer but I think it’s been 2 years since I installed it with no issues.
I put a n upgraded one on my D2 some time ago. It’s made of thicker material. I’ll try to find out where I got it from.
I must have entered the EKA with my Nanocom at some point because I can lock it with the remote and unlock it with the key without any issues.
Ok , good information. Thanks
I had also read the the 315 MHz fobs were NLA, but I thought I should give it a try. I expected them to say they weren’t available. Yes I gave them the VIN.
I also need to try to get a couple of keys cut. The lock shop I’ve checked doesn’t have the blanks and said they wouldn’t cut one even if they did. Maybe I can order a couple of blanks from the UK and find someone who will cut them.
Thanks as always Richard! I am concerned that the frequency of the fob will be wrong but I ordered it from the local JLR dealer so I hope it will be correct. I suppose if it doesn’t work I may need to order a 433 MHz receiver (I don’t think I’ll get thrown in jail for using the wrong frequency). I’ve only ever had one fob for my vehicle and it’s now 26 years old so if I’m lucky the new one will work and last another 20+ years.
Okay I see.
Ok, thanks Tom. Maybe syncing the new fob will be as simple as turning the door lock either way and pressing the lock or unlock button.
How did you unlock your BECM? Mine is locked but Nanocom has a warning that if you unlock it you can’t go back. Can I unlock it with my Nanocom and not worry about it?
Top windscreen trim is easy to remove if it was installed properly in the first place. RAVE gives the procedure. Slide a thin piece of plastic (eg credit card) at each attach point and move it (from memory) right to left to disengage it. If it was siliconed in you may destroy it.
I ordered a new fob from JLR and I’m trying to get my BECM ready to programme. On the Nanocom, I go BECM, Settings, Alarm…it says EKA Enabled. Then I go BECM, Utility, I get the page Odometer/reset, then it says “Disabled”, EKA then a blank square. I can go into the blank square and write a 4 digit code, which will show up in the previously blank square, but if I close and reopen the window it is a blank square again. (I’m pretty sure I need EKA working to sync my new fob). What am I doing wrong?
IIRC the bonnet switch is on the RH bonnet latch.