Ah Lesotho! Very fond memories there flying for the Lesotho Flying Doctor Sevice in 1987. A very beautiful country.
Ah Lesotho! Very fond memories there flying for the Lesotho Flying Doctor Sevice in 1987. A very beautiful country.
I’m no expert on this but I don’t think O2 sensors will modify the fuel enough to make it run that poorly. I think you could confirm it’s not the O2’s by disconnecting the plugs to the upstream sensors (downstream sensors don’t modify the fuel trim). The ECU should then go into open loop and run quite fine if the rest of the system is fine.
I’ve only removed one from a parts P38, LHD. I just followed Rave and it went fine. I would definitely disconnect the battery if it was me.
You are right, it’s the volume of air that increases to raise the car. From the point that a spring begins to lift off the stop until it hits max extension the pressure will remain the same. The pressure will increase if the weight increases. (I’m an aircraft mechanic and this is exactly how landing gear struts work).
Thanks Dave. At this point I’m not planning on buying a printer, but that might happen one day. So far I haven’t needed access to my pump but it’s really nice to have an access panel when you do. On my D2 I needed to T/S a fuel quantity issue and the panel made that job a lot easier.
You could probably 3D print some and sell them to a number of us here. The fact that it fits the corrugations is a big plus.
Rave says to disconnect the battery and wait 10 minutes. I know a lot of experienced mechanics don’t bother and just disconnect and reconnect SRS plugs. Do at your own risk.
Thanks Richard. I’ve been meaning to order a Mobi-lize but I guess I don’t need to.
I checked mine with Nano, and it was already set. Do you think this is as good as the Mobi-lize?
It sounds like you have quite a bit of mechanical experience, and also Land Rover experience. Once you get your P38 sorted you’ll love it.
That should be of great importance to us with GEMS P38’s. Thanks Si.
Wow, quite a good story. I know what the bump stops feel like!
That’s exactly my worry, and maybe when I’m way off-grid with no-one else around. Hopefully it’s good now.
I cleaned the connectors as noted above, and I replaced the Ignition Switch with a used one I had. It seems to be fine now. If the issue returns it’s something other than the switch. If it comes back it’s either a wire/connector finding a ground, or a BeCM internal fault. Hopefully the problem is solved.
Thanks mad-as. I was no where near the car when it happened, and it turned off normally when I had shut it down the previous day. I don’t think I’ll figure it out until it happens again and I can do more trouble shooting. In the meantime I plan to spray the switch with contact cleaner, and I think disconnect and clean the 2 plugs at the BeCM.
As far as wading goes, it hasn’t been wet since I’ve had it (4 1/2 years), and before me it was certainly never off-roaded. It did live it’s first 20 years in Vancouver, where it is very wet for a third of the year.
Thanks as usual for the insight Richard. I’ll see what happens next time it fails.
My 97 P38 just started cranking over in the driveway with no one in it nor any key nearby. I removed relay 16 and it stopped. I tried a different relay and it immediately started cranking again. With the relay removed, I inserted the key and cycled it to start a couple of times, put the relay back in and it seems to be back to normal.
There’s not much to this system per the wiring diagram, relay to BeCM to ignition switch to ground. It’s hard to imagine a switch failing closed, but maybe it’s possible(?). I suppose the relay could be finding another ground somewhere in the wiring, but then why would cycling the switch cure it? And I really hope the BeCM isn’t finding a ground internally.
Have any of you experienced this before or have any other ideas?
I think most of the design features on the LR’s are actually very good. The lower rad attach bolts just aren’t one of them. At least they gave me enough room to get a recip saw at them.