Your BeCM knows when a trailer is plugged in. I get a green trailer icon light on my instrument panel. You don’t need another relay (mine is a NAS GEMS and I use a 4 pin NAS connector, so yours might be different).
Richard thanks as always. I just locked it with the fob then unlocked it with the key and it started, so I suppose no EKA needed (?). Like you, I do have a non-fob key hidden in the vehicle.
This has happened to me twice in the 4 years I’ve had it, I unlocked the car with the key only, then when attempting to start it, the hazards flash and the hooter hoots (immobilized). As soon as I press the fob everything is happy again. My worry is that if the fob ever dies (or I lose it, or forget it in my pocket and go swimming) , the next time it immobilizes the vehicle may be unusable forevermore.
Marshall, for that stand alone ECU do I need to send the unit to Tornado, or do they send me something to install? Also, is this similar to Mobi-lize? I really should do something like this as I have only ever had one Fob (as I understand you can’t get a replacement for NAS) and I’m a bit afraid that when my Fob eventually dies, my P38’s life will be limited. (1997 GEMS).
Well again thanks for all your work on this forum Richard and Gordon!
Mine has also done this for the whole 4 years I’ve had it. It hasn’t gotten any worse and actually I don’t even notice it anymore.
Perhaps in California. There are no shortage of petrol V8’s when I go south across the border. Even with the relatively low cost of fuel on this side of the Atlantic, some folks still really like diesels for their fuel economy. For the mountainous area where I live, I really like the power of my 4.6 petrol engine and would never consider a diesel.
From memory, mine with auto gearbox was over 800lbs, so Richards 350kg sounds like a reasonable estimate.
That makes sense. It took me a few times to clue in that it always happened there and seemingly never anywhere else.
My central door locking works properly almost all the time, but I noticed that whenever I park at a parts store that I frequent, it doesn’t work. There must be some sort of interference there. (NAS GEMS). I don’t think this helps you at all Tom, but it’s interesting.
I was terrified of stripping the threads when I did the HG’s on my Disco. When I do the P38 I’m not sure yet whether I will use ARP studs or TTY bolts.
I don’t think battery powered airlines are anywhere close to feasible yet, not until the weight of batteries comes way down. A local charter airline has a couple of DeHavilland Beavers converted to electric power. I think the payload is one passenger and the range 20 minutes before needing a 1/2 hour charge. We’ll probably get there, but not yet.
Yes quite right Richard. I forgot about the obvious need to replace the crank.
I’ve not heard of people going from 4.6-4.0, but I’m pretty sure when people make a 4.6 out of their 4.0 they need to change pistons and rods.
I think you need to replace connecting rods as well if you are replacing pistons.
A 3 foot breaker bar probably means they were torqued correctly. If you use new stretch bolts instead of the ARP studs you’ll find out why. Torque to a value (115 ft lb or so from my poor memory) then another quarter turn, then another quarter turn.
Heimholz resonators. They should reduce the decibel level of the intake noise at certain rpms. People add the same things to the exhaust to get rid of the drone that happens at a certain rpm when you have very low resistance mufflers.
Sounds like you’ve learned a lot about P38’s already. You’ll find the most knowledgeable (not me) and helpful P38 people in the world right here. Welcome.
If you can make it a 4.6 I think it will make a big difference. My P38 is 4.6 and does fine on our mountain roads, while my D2 when loaded for camping is a bit anaemic. It’s something I’d like to do to the Disco someday.
As for me, I’m glad that the P38 values are currently low. I’d have never bought one if they were expensive. The value of my D2 seems to be creeping up, and my 2A is worth several times more than I bought it for, but unless I ever decide to sell it, it doesn’t matter what it’s valued at.
The head bolts are way tighter than the crankshaft pulley. I’m sure my medium duty impact wrench would never have budged my head bolts.
The oil seal will be much easier to do on your workbench, you don’t need any fancy tools. I jerry rigged a tool to hold the crank for R&R of the pulley nut. Some people do it without the tool, but it’s an easy tool to make. I didn’t use any special tool to line up the oil pump and the pulley also easily slides back on the woodruff key.