I totally agree that this is easily the best P38 site but for some of the mechanical bits that are common to other LR’s (like your diff pinion seal), your answer might easily be found on another LR site. I also frequent landroverforums.com for my D2 and there is definitely cross over for a number of items.
How cold are we talking? I had some leaks on mine a few years ago only in the cold at a couple of hose to plastic coupling joints. I tightened the clamps a bit more and the leaks stopped. Plastic expands and contracts with temperature a lot more than most materials, so I’m sure the plastic couplings shrunk enough in the cold to allow leaks.
Heating both items still makes it easier to remove.
Running the engine was a recommended procedure on a previous vehicle I had (Dodge Dakota IIRC). Of course if you could keep the probe cool at the same time it would work even better. For seized bolts etc, heating the whole thing helps, even though it would help even more if you could keep the bolt cool.
I’ve only removed O2 sensors a few times and I’ve never needed to use heat but I’ve read that heating the surrounding boss can ease removal.
If it goes by Royal Mail/Canada Post it will usually come without any extra fees.
The Couriers will charge me “brokerage” fees on anything worth over something like £15 into Canada.
https://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/mastercraft-bit-wrench-set-29-pc-0588626p.html#srp
This little 90* ratcheting screw driver is very handy. I’m sure there are other non-Canadian suppliers out there.
If you’re on this side of the Atlantic, try Will Tillery at http://roverguy.com/ for used parts.
I never pay VAT for parts sent to Canada. On this end I often have to pay Canadian taxes, which doesn’t bother me. What does bother me is the exorbitant “brokerage” fees the shipping companies often add to their charges.
Oh wow, so sorry. I had no idea Britcar was your baby. Sad to see another LR supplier go away.
There’s a fairly experienced guy on Landroverforums who swears by leaving his lamba’s disconnected on his Disco 2 (Thor) all the time. I think it would work the same on a P38 Thor. Personally I wouldn’t recommend this other than for troubleshooting.
Ok thanks Richard, that’s also good to know.
Thanks for that. I still wonder if the BeCM can send a signal to immobilize the ECU whenever it decides to, that can’t be overridden just by selecting YES on my Nanocom. I’m probably overthinking this though.
I’m very sure the Throttle Body Heater is not the revving problem. It is a common coolant leak area though.
Ah Lesotho! Very fond memories there flying for the Lesotho Flying Doctor Sevice in 1987. A very beautiful country.
Ah Lesotho! Very fond memories there flying for the Lesotho Flying Doctor Sevice in 1987. A very beautiful country.
I’m no expert on this but I don’t think O2 sensors will modify the fuel enough to make it run that poorly. I think you could confirm it’s not the O2’s by disconnecting the plugs to the upstream sensors (downstream sensors don’t modify the fuel trim). The ECU should then go into open loop and run quite fine if the rest of the system is fine.
I’ve only removed one from a parts P38, LHD. I just followed Rave and it went fine. I would definitely disconnect the battery if it was me.
You are right, it’s the volume of air that increases to raise the car. From the point that a spring begins to lift off the stop until it hits max extension the pressure will remain the same. The pressure will increase if the weight increases. (I’m an aircraft mechanic and this is exactly how landing gear struts work).