I agree, it shouldn’t be difficult to repair. Unless it’s quite bad it probably doesn’t need much.

IIRC it’s something like 2 thin sheets of fibreglass or kevlar with foam sandwiched between.

I don’t know how an ACE/SLS D2 drives, as mine is non-ACE and non-SLS, but my P38 drives much nicer than my D2, especially at high speeds, and also when off-road. I really like both vehicles though.

Nice job Pierre. Did you keep the foam backing on the sunroof shade? It looks great. My whole job looks decent enough, but the sunroof shade looks like crap. I did remove the foam backing as that’s how it was originally, but then you can see every bit of glue behind it.

I had a similar issue on a Dakota I used to have. The check valve in the fuel delivery leaked down, so cold starts had no residual fuel pressure. In my case the valve was part of the fuel pump. I’m not sure if the P38 check valve is in the pump or not. But this may not be your issue at all.

Thanks

Yes, thanks Richard, orange/black and pink/black on the door loom side. I agree, two dead motors would be too much of a coincidence. I need to keep digging.

I got my RHD RH Front door latch actuator and it does indeed fit, however the CDL actuator (motor) still doesn’t work. With the door manually unlocked my tailgate works. All the other doors work. I tried another door outstation from a parts car I had, but it’s the same.
I surmised that if I put power across pins 1&4 at the plug of the new actuator, the CDL motor would move, supposedly power one way to lock and the other way to unlock, but it doesn’t do anything when I do that. My understanding of how the motor works must be incorrect.
A broken wire in the bellows between the door and the body would be my next suspicion, but I tried manipulating that area and I would have suspected it to at least work intermittently when doing that.
Any other ideas?

On the site I visit for the Disco (landroverforums) there’s lots of talk about temperature. Anywhere between about 85 and 93 seem to be normal.

Is 3M available there? I used 3M Super Trim Adhesive. I used more than 2 cans of it. The adhesive cost was about the same as the fabric cost.

From my memory the pillars are numbered A,B,D and E. For some reason I don’t think they have a C pillar.

I don’t remember specifically each piece I removed, but the more you get out of the way the easier it will be to get your headliner in and out without damaging it.

Thanks Gordon for looking after all this. I really appreciate this forum.

Thanks a lot Richard. I just took it all apart, cleaned it and put it together. It still doesn’t work with the fob, but I realized that with it manually unlocked, the tailgate works, so it should get me by until I can get a new latch mechanism.

Thanks Richard. I may need to give that a try.

I’ve had a latch assy on order from Rimmer Bros for a few months now (on back order) due to an intermittent RF Door Unlatched warning. Today it quit locking or unlocking with the fob, and the tailgate doesn’t open. I know I need a latch, but is there a temporary work around? I’ve ordered a FQJ103240 which should be correct for my VIN and LH drive. Maybe there’s a better source for this latch?

They’re certainly a poor choice for off-road. You can’t really air them down much.

I’m pretty sure it won’t go in. I tried fitting a 31 (from memory) from my son’s Forerunner and no way.

Wheel bearings aren’t just a Land Rover thing. My previous Suburban and Dakota were similar in that you needed to replace the whole hub. I had to do the Dakota twice as I opted for the cheap replacements the first time. The Suburban ones were still original when I gave it away with 425,000km.

The glue I used was 3M Super Trim Adhesive. I bought it at the local auto parts store (I’m in Canada). I’m pretty sure you don’t need to remove the sunroof at all, just the little slider panel that covers it (the recovering of this panel is the only part of the job that I’m not at all happy with). I did my whole job myself. Maybe I shouldn’t have but I’m kind of stubborn.