I used a 3’ bar (piece of pipe around my breaker bar). I understand why people spend the money on ARP studs. It’s probably my stubbornness but if it was me I would persist in removing the head.

They have mild steel inside them which seems to have come from Toyota, as they are very prone to rust. I removed mine and haven’t reinstalled any. New ones are available but cost more than you would expect for what they are. If you cut some rubber to fit, let us know how it turned out.

When I got mine with 137,000 km it was already on its second set of discs, which were also worn way beyond limits. It came from North Vancouver which is very steep. I think the PO’s left it in Drive all the time with their foot on the brake pedal down all the hills.

What was the condition of your NRV’s? I needed to rob 2 parts valve blocks to get 3 good working NRV’s. I think Beowulf found a source of new ones.

My Disco had the yellow mayo in the oil. The fault was the timing cover gasket, not HG’s

Symes congrats on the Disco. Great vehicle but if you’re getting 16mpg on the P38 it will be 14 in the boxier Disco.

If you look above, in the handy downloads section, Juke (in one of the last posts) posts a link to John Braybens info. I don’t think all of it is there but a lot is

I think the early ones had the flock and the later ones didn’t

I didn’t fold and glue mine but I think I should have.

20 years is probably the reason, though the P38 Cats seem to be better than most.

I agree, it shouldn’t be difficult to repair. Unless it’s quite bad it probably doesn’t need much.

IIRC it’s something like 2 thin sheets of fibreglass or kevlar with foam sandwiched between.

I don’t know how an ACE/SLS D2 drives, as mine is non-ACE and non-SLS, but my P38 drives much nicer than my D2, especially at high speeds, and also when off-road. I really like both vehicles though.

Nice job Pierre. Did you keep the foam backing on the sunroof shade? It looks great. My whole job looks decent enough, but the sunroof shade looks like crap. I did remove the foam backing as that’s how it was originally, but then you can see every bit of glue behind it.

I had a similar issue on a Dakota I used to have. The check valve in the fuel delivery leaked down, so cold starts had no residual fuel pressure. In my case the valve was part of the fuel pump. I’m not sure if the P38 check valve is in the pump or not. But this may not be your issue at all.

Thanks

Yes, thanks Richard, orange/black and pink/black on the door loom side. I agree, two dead motors would be too much of a coincidence. I need to keep digging.

I got my RHD RH Front door latch actuator and it does indeed fit, however the CDL actuator (motor) still doesn’t work. With the door manually unlocked my tailgate works. All the other doors work. I tried another door outstation from a parts car I had, but it’s the same.
I surmised that if I put power across pins 1&4 at the plug of the new actuator, the CDL motor would move, supposedly power one way to lock and the other way to unlock, but it doesn’t do anything when I do that. My understanding of how the motor works must be incorrect.
A broken wire in the bellows between the door and the body would be my next suspicion, but I tried manipulating that area and I would have suspected it to at least work intermittently when doing that.
Any other ideas?

On the site I visit for the Disco (landroverforums) there’s lots of talk about temperature. Anywhere between about 85 and 93 seem to be normal.

Is 3M available there? I used 3M Super Trim Adhesive. I used more than 2 cans of it. The adhesive cost was about the same as the fabric cost.