I got my RHD RH Front door latch actuator and it does indeed fit, however the CDL actuator (motor) still doesn’t work. With the door manually unlocked my tailgate works. All the other doors work. I tried another door outstation from a parts car I had, but it’s the same.
I surmised that if I put power across pins 1&4 at the plug of the new actuator, the CDL motor would move, supposedly power one way to lock and the other way to unlock, but it doesn’t do anything when I do that. My understanding of how the motor works must be incorrect.
A broken wire in the bellows between the door and the body would be my next suspicion, but I tried manipulating that area and I would have suspected it to at least work intermittently when doing that.
Any other ideas?

On the site I visit for the Disco (landroverforums) there’s lots of talk about temperature. Anywhere between about 85 and 93 seem to be normal.

Is 3M available there? I used 3M Super Trim Adhesive. I used more than 2 cans of it. The adhesive cost was about the same as the fabric cost.

From my memory the pillars are numbered A,B,D and E. For some reason I don’t think they have a C pillar.

I don’t remember specifically each piece I removed, but the more you get out of the way the easier it will be to get your headliner in and out without damaging it.

Thanks Gordon for looking after all this. I really appreciate this forum.

Thanks a lot Richard. I just took it all apart, cleaned it and put it together. It still doesn’t work with the fob, but I realized that with it manually unlocked, the tailgate works, so it should get me by until I can get a new latch mechanism.

Thanks Richard. I may need to give that a try.

I’ve had a latch assy on order from Rimmer Bros for a few months now (on back order) due to an intermittent RF Door Unlatched warning. Today it quit locking or unlocking with the fob, and the tailgate doesn’t open. I know I need a latch, but is there a temporary work around? I’ve ordered a FQJ103240 which should be correct for my VIN and LH drive. Maybe there’s a better source for this latch?

They’re certainly a poor choice for off-road. You can’t really air them down much.

I’m pretty sure it won’t go in. I tried fitting a 31 (from memory) from my son’s Forerunner and no way.

Wheel bearings aren’t just a Land Rover thing. My previous Suburban and Dakota were similar in that you needed to replace the whole hub. I had to do the Dakota twice as I opted for the cheap replacements the first time. The Suburban ones were still original when I gave it away with 425,000km.

The glue I used was 3M Super Trim Adhesive. I bought it at the local auto parts store (I’m in Canada). I’m pretty sure you don’t need to remove the sunroof at all, just the little slider panel that covers it (the recovering of this panel is the only part of the job that I’m not at all happy with). I did my whole job myself. Maybe I shouldn’t have but I’m kind of stubborn.

That dot was supposed to be a “plus” on Symes comment.

• on the rust inhibitor. My Series 2A bulkhead was rusting when I got it so I thought I’d hit it with some Tremclad and deal with it properly later. Another 25 years later it hasn’t really gotten any worse.

Mine definitely does not connect with diagnostics with the 4 pin relay. I’m sure I’ve tried to connect at least twice, wondering why the Nano wasn’t working until I remembered the relay. I think I’ve done the same with RSW, but that would have been a couple of years back.

I had the same fault on the D2 (airbag open circuit). I disconnected, sprayed and reconnected the air bag connector and the fault went away. It came back after a couple of weeks. I did it again and I haven’t had my SRS light come back for a few months now. (My fault was the passenger side though so this probably doesn’t help you much).

-5ish is quite a normal winter temperature around here but we’ve just been in a cold snap. This is the only cold snap we’ve had this winter, and if we’re lucky this may be the end of winter for this year.

-2 , are you guys in Celsius or Fahrenheit over there? It was -18C here this morning. The Dunlop air springs are less than 2 years old but they hate the cold. The rear springs especially leak down overnight once it’s colder than -12. My wife drove it to work this morning (only about 5km), but it never sorted itself out. I’ll probably need to hook up the Nano this evening. When it’s warm there are no leaks. Last summer we didn’t drive it for a while and it didn’t leak down at all for 3 weeks.

It didn’t take me so long to go for LR, I’ve had my 2A for 26 years. It’s the newer LR’s that took me a while. I think I bought all 3 LR’s when they were pretty well bottomed out price wise. The 2A is worth a lot more now, and Disco’s are definitely going up in value. It would be nice to see the P38 go up too, but it doesn’t really matter to me, unless I ever want to sell it, which I have no intention of doing.