I don’t remember specifically each piece I removed, but the more you get out of the way the easier it will be to get your headliner in and out without damaging it.

Thanks Gordon for looking after all this. I really appreciate this forum.

Thanks a lot Richard. I just took it all apart, cleaned it and put it together. It still doesn’t work with the fob, but I realized that with it manually unlocked, the tailgate works, so it should get me by until I can get a new latch mechanism.

Thanks Richard. I may need to give that a try.

I’ve had a latch assy on order from Rimmer Bros for a few months now (on back order) due to an intermittent RF Door Unlatched warning. Today it quit locking or unlocking with the fob, and the tailgate doesn’t open. I know I need a latch, but is there a temporary work around? I’ve ordered a FQJ103240 which should be correct for my VIN and LH drive. Maybe there’s a better source for this latch?

They’re certainly a poor choice for off-road. You can’t really air them down much.

I’m pretty sure it won’t go in. I tried fitting a 31 (from memory) from my son’s Forerunner and no way.

Wheel bearings aren’t just a Land Rover thing. My previous Suburban and Dakota were similar in that you needed to replace the whole hub. I had to do the Dakota twice as I opted for the cheap replacements the first time. The Suburban ones were still original when I gave it away with 425,000km.

The glue I used was 3M Super Trim Adhesive. I bought it at the local auto parts store (I’m in Canada). I’m pretty sure you don’t need to remove the sunroof at all, just the little slider panel that covers it (the recovering of this panel is the only part of the job that I’m not at all happy with). I did my whole job myself. Maybe I shouldn’t have but I’m kind of stubborn.

That dot was supposed to be a “plus” on Symes comment.

• on the rust inhibitor. My Series 2A bulkhead was rusting when I got it so I thought I’d hit it with some Tremclad and deal with it properly later. Another 25 years later it hasn’t really gotten any worse.

Mine definitely does not connect with diagnostics with the 4 pin relay. I’m sure I’ve tried to connect at least twice, wondering why the Nano wasn’t working until I remembered the relay. I think I’ve done the same with RSW, but that would have been a couple of years back.

I had the same fault on the D2 (airbag open circuit). I disconnected, sprayed and reconnected the air bag connector and the fault went away. It came back after a couple of weeks. I did it again and I haven’t had my SRS light come back for a few months now. (My fault was the passenger side though so this probably doesn’t help you much).

-5ish is quite a normal winter temperature around here but we’ve just been in a cold snap. This is the only cold snap we’ve had this winter, and if we’re lucky this may be the end of winter for this year.

-2 , are you guys in Celsius or Fahrenheit over there? It was -18C here this morning. The Dunlop air springs are less than 2 years old but they hate the cold. The rear springs especially leak down overnight once it’s colder than -12. My wife drove it to work this morning (only about 5km), but it never sorted itself out. I’ll probably need to hook up the Nano this evening. When it’s warm there are no leaks. Last summer we didn’t drive it for a while and it didn’t leak down at all for 3 weeks.

It didn’t take me so long to go for LR, I’ve had my 2A for 26 years. It’s the newer LR’s that took me a while. I think I bought all 3 LR’s when they were pretty well bottomed out price wise. The 2A is worth a lot more now, and Disco’s are definitely going up in value. It would be nice to see the P38 go up too, but it doesn’t really matter to me, unless I ever want to sell it, which I have no intention of doing.

I think mines probably a forever car. The first year and a half I owned it, it had a lot of issues. The past two years it’s been pretty much flawless. It’s the best driving vehicle on and off road that I’ve ever had (and I’ve been driving 45 years now).

With the main brakes applied, the EAS is inhibited.

My understanding is that it doesn’t seal. I think the drip tray is supposed to drain off all the water that gets past it. I don’t think it’s just Land Rover that works like that.

Yes, on the P38. I have 32’s on the Disco. I’ve thought a lot about larger tires on the P38. The big killer for me is that even a slightly larger tire won’t fit in the spare tire space. On the P38 you can’t get away with a smaller spare due to the AWD and viscous coupling. At this time I’m not keen on building a swing away spare, though that would solve the problem.