The head bolts are way tighter than the crankshaft pulley. I’m sure my medium duty impact wrench would never have budged my head bolts.
The oil seal will be much easier to do on your workbench, you don’t need any fancy tools. I jerry rigged a tool to hold the crank for R&R of the pulley nut. Some people do it without the tool, but it’s an easy tool to make. I didn’t use any special tool to line up the oil pump and the pulley also easily slides back on the woodruff key.
Mine does the same. It was somewhat better after I bled the brakes, but you’d think it wasn’t like this when new. As I’m often parked in the garage, I like to start it and back out right away so I don’t leave any more exhaust fumes inside than I need to. It would be a bad deal if on backing out you immediately went down a steep driveway. My driveway is flat.
I used a 3’ bar (piece of pipe around my breaker bar). I understand why people spend the money on ARP studs. It’s probably my stubbornness but if it was me I would persist in removing the head.
They have mild steel inside them which seems to have come from Toyota, as they are very prone to rust. I removed mine and haven’t reinstalled any. New ones are available but cost more than you would expect for what they are. If you cut some rubber to fit, let us know how it turned out.
When I got mine with 137,000 km it was already on its second set of discs, which were also worn way beyond limits. It came from North Vancouver which is very steep. I think the PO’s left it in Drive all the time with their foot on the brake pedal down all the hills.
What was the condition of your NRV’s? I needed to rob 2 parts valve blocks to get 3 good working NRV’s. I think Beowulf found a source of new ones.
My Disco had the yellow mayo in the oil. The fault was the timing cover gasket, not HG’s
Symes congrats on the Disco. Great vehicle but if you’re getting 16mpg on the P38 it will be 14 in the boxier Disco.
If you look above, in the handy downloads section, Juke (in one of the last posts) posts a link to John Braybens info. I don’t think all of it is there but a lot is
I think the early ones had the flock and the later ones didn’t
I didn’t fold and glue mine but I think I should have.
20 years is probably the reason, though the P38 Cats seem to be better than most.
I agree, it shouldn’t be difficult to repair. Unless it’s quite bad it probably doesn’t need much.
IIRC it’s something like 2 thin sheets of fibreglass or kevlar with foam sandwiched between.
I don’t know how an ACE/SLS D2 drives, as mine is non-ACE and non-SLS, but my P38 drives much nicer than my D2, especially at high speeds, and also when off-road. I really like both vehicles though.
Nice job Pierre. Did you keep the foam backing on the sunroof shade? It looks great. My whole job looks decent enough, but the sunroof shade looks like crap. I did remove the foam backing as that’s how it was originally, but then you can see every bit of glue behind it.
I had a similar issue on a Dakota I used to have. The check valve in the fuel delivery leaked down, so cold starts had no residual fuel pressure. In my case the valve was part of the fuel pump. I’m not sure if the P38 check valve is in the pump or not. But this may not be your issue at all.
Yes, thanks Richard, orange/black and pink/black on the door loom side. I agree, two dead motors would be too much of a coincidence. I need to keep digging.