And Central Door Locking isn’t working, the drivers door will lock and unlock with the key, but no other door locks or unlocks. Also with the door open, I can push the lock button down on any door and slam it shut, it stays locked.
Also Nanocom says right front door super locked. It isn’t super locked as I can manually unlock and open it, but BeCM seems to think it is superlocked. (LHD vehicle).
What does this mean? Also ENGINE DIABLED. I tried my EKA with the door key, nothing, no lights flashing. I entered my EKA into Nanocom. It says Nanocom has instructed the BeCM to reset the alarm state, but dash still gives the same warnings. My fob lights flash when I press them, but the car doesn’t recognize anything.
Great, and congrats to your daughter.
My suspicion is that the new temp sensor is calibrated differently. I suppose you could confirm this by reinstalling the original sensor.
You’re right, it’s a different product. I’d still be leery. If you use it, let us know how it goes.
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=780139
I think this is the same product. The VW site calls it snake oil. Personally I wouldn’t use it.
I did replace mine with (I think) Audi. I’m not sure it was a good choice. Our Canadian winters are cold and it is marginal for heat at -30C. I didn’t remove the dash, I did the mod where you cut and resplice a brace.
Is it actually possible to be in any position without any exhaust valves at least partially open?
I know nothing about the L322, but spark plugs are a cheap part, and you’re there anyway if you’re checking compression, especially as we don’t know how old they are.
Yes I think a decade is probably enough even for LR branded hoses.
I also think it is probably worth the few minutes to remove the viscous fan for much better access to the t-stat hoses.
My go-to parts level is generally OEM (not LR branded). When I replaced my hoses I could only find either Aftermarket or LR branded, no OEM. I opted for Aftermarket as LR was somewhere around 10x the price. I haven’t had issues but I’m not sure Aftermarket is the right choice given how serious a coolant hose failure is on these vehicles.
I don’t have SAI on either my 97 P38 or 01 D2, but l understand from the D2 site I frequent (Landroverforums) that you will get a code if you remove it.
If you can make NRV’s, you probably have a market for them here.
I think you can run without O2 sensors. You’ll always be in open loop, running a tad richer than ideal, but no richer than a carbureted engine.
Welcome here navyblu. This is the right place for all your EAS questions.
When I played with it today, it worked as it’s supposed to work.
Marshall, now that I have it set to 100, I’ll try using the column stalk.
Garvin I agree it’s a very useless feature.
On a recent trip my overspeed warning kept beeping every time I hit about 115kmh (highway speed limit 120). I never have it turned on. I kept trying to turn it off with the button on the stalk. It would say “off” and silence while I held the button, but as soon as I released it, it would continue beeping. The selected speed on my panel read 120 and I couldn’t select a higher speed. I know that I used to be able to select it up to 140kmh. I turned the vehicle off for several minutes, but it was the same. I plugged Nano in hoping to be able to disable the function, but all I got was the ability to select 100 or 120. (It was set to 120 and I certainly didn’t want the beep at a lower speed, so I left it). My Son-in-law did some Google searches and found one that said to select it to 100, so I tried that and the warning went away. That was a few weeks ago and the issue hasn’t returned. Have any of you heard of this?
Well it took JLR 4 months to figure out what we already knew, they don’t have key fobs for NAS vehicles. Anyway, they refunded my payment with no problem.