I haven’t checked this on my P38, but on the Disco 2 I could tell on the Nanocom if the receiver was working (I needed to replace it).

I hope you get to the bottom of this quickly.

It’s probably fair enough to watch eBay for a Nanocom, but don’t waste too much time looking. Everyone who has one really likes it and probably won’t be looking to sell it. And the owner is likely to be a fairly diehard Land Rover guy, not planning getting out of the LR scene. As costly as they are, I’ve never heard of anyone regretting buying one.

I had a rattling cat on a Dodge Dakota I used to have. I removed the cats and gained a lot of power. The cats were very plugged. I think the large cats on our P38’s might not be as prone to plugging up.

Another possibility is that the rubber inserts in the window tracks tend to fall out of their tracks, causing the window to rattle.

That’s what I’m understanding as well. But I haven’t tried it yet.

Good news!

Thanks for the link

That sounds like a game changer

As I’m stubborn, I did mine by myself. A helper or two would have been nice. The job turned out okay anyway. No one but me (or someone who’s done these) would notice my imperfections. I also needed 3 cans of glue.
Richard, your missus is quite the lady. Removing the old glue is the worst part of the job.

I’m on this site and on Landroverforums (for the Disco). I haven’t heard any such issues with a Nanocom. I think the one in question is probably quite rare.
On the other hand, I got the RSW EAS Unlock a couple of years before I got my Nano. The Nano is definitely easier to use, but so far, the RSW unit has done everything I’ve needed (I’m 5 1/2 years into my P38 now), so at 1/4 the price it’s really good value.

Thanks for all the info on the LED’s. I’m going to try using some in a few places.

Garvin, is the BeCM okay with LED’s in side, brake and reverse positions? I was wondering if the lower current draw would give a message on the instrument panel?

It is not at all like Duct tape. It’s very thin very sticky tape that lasts way longer than duct tape, though it’s shear strength is very limited. It’s most often used here in building construction to seal vapour barriers, which is really exactly what I am using it for on the Rangie. It’s thin and virtually see through. People actually often use it to temporarily repair a broken red tail light lens. From a bit of a distance you don’t even know it’s there. The light shines right through it like the lens that broke.

Pierre, I don’t remember if you are LHD or RHD. On mine I tried the RHD assembly in the RH door of my LHD vehicle and it didn’t work.
https://rangerovers.pub/topic/2330-right-front-door-latch

I salvaged 3 valve blocks to get enough good NRV’s to make one good valve block.

I wouldn’t be without my Yakima racks, but I either have a canoe or skis or bikes on top a lot of the time. You can probably sell your Thule’s.

You are probably beyond this point, but I make a nice cut of the shredder with a razor knife and then reseal it with Tuck Tape (might be a Canadian brand name).
https://www.amazon.ca/Tuck-Tape-Construction-Sheathing-Epoxy/dp/B088QL3BWM/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?crid=1NR05WU4JGH0Z&keywords=tuck+tape&qid=1673973446&sprefix=tuc%2Caps%2C163&sr=8-3
I’ve recut in the same spot several times and resealed again with very good results. It seals well and you don’t see it once the door card is back on.

Ok great. Thanks.

Gilbertd wrote:

Just connect a wire between the two, you can leave the existing wiring connected.

So I could just jumper the two wires together and still leave them connected to the BECM? I’ve had these two wires marked with a piece of tape for a couple of years, in case I would ever need to bypass the BECM to start mine. I would have expected to cut both wires to the BECM, and then jumper the two together. If the BECM won’t mind, I don’t really see a downside to jumping the 2 wires (I seriously doubt that anyone will want to steal my 26 year old car).

Ok, I’m not sure now if my immobilizer was as I said. I tried it again today (I locked it with the fob last night and unlocked it with the key just now). This time the engine was immobilized. So I’d say I was wrong in my previous post.